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Old 18-02-2007, 07:23 PM posted to rec.ponds
Tristan Tristan is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 514
Default Interesting findings concerning strata temps (thermoclines) in a pond

On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 18:51:23 GMT, ~ jan
wrote:
snip

I hope you do report back on this come summer, very interesting what you've
gotten so far in winter. I guess this is why koi grow big fast down south.
:-)

I am going to try and keep a very concise set of records on all ponds
to include a few of the wifes smaller preforms just so I can bump
data back and forth to see how they all vary and what takes place due
to what and when......I have time so may as well make the most of it.


snip

When you do your pp treatments, what ppm do you shoot for? I heard 2 ppm is
good for removing organics. ~ jan

I do not go by any set PPM rate. I go by what a demand test indicates
is needed to obtain good water. It can have a good degree of variation
depending on actual organic load. 2ppm is however a safe starting
point, which is not usually harmfull for fish but on the wame hand it
may not oxidize all that needs oxidizing either. Thats why I use a
demand test, and do it one time hopefully, and not have to go more
than one treatment back to back. I have had treatments of 4 and 5 PPM
already and the fish did fine...however, thats my experieince, and I
can only say if your not sure go with a lower level, and repeat until
you get good water and obtain what yuor looking for.....

To do a demand test gather up 4 or 5 samples of water, in say 1 quart
mason jars......

You need a stock solution that equates to 2ppm of PP. Easy to make and
handy to have......and can be made up in a 1 gal jug and kept in adark
cool place for easy use. It lasts about a year or so, evendown here in
the hot south.

To each sample of water, add the amount of drops needed for 2ppm, 3
ppm, 4 ppm etc etc Look for samples to retaina the pink/purple color
for the lenfgth of time needed.(6-8 hoursis recomended target range).

If it comes out say with 3 ppm that retained the color for the time
frame, then dosing at 2ppm is not going to be sufficieint, and dosing
at 4ppm is too high, but 3ppm rate wuld be whats needed to do the job.

I can give a better detailed method of making a stock solution and
doing these demand tests if i nterested. Just arbitrarily adding in
say 2ppm of PP is sort of like shotgun method of dosing.......why put
th efish through 2ppm if 1 will do or why put fish throght 2 does of
2ppm when one of 3 ppm will work, and still be relatively (my
observations) safe for the fish. The doses listed by various sources
for using PP is a guide, and is well within the "safe" range.......but
they do have limitations and risks as well as a good probability of
not getting 100% of the job done.

The use of PP is not dangerous or hard to do if a few simple rules are
followed and a demand test is followed. Its probbaly as safe as
adding dechorinator to water. If a fish does show signs of stress or
dies, the odds are that fish was destined to expire with or without
PP. Its not uncommon for fish to sort of go crazy with the first few
minutes of exposure to PP, but its a short term thing, and soon they
think its sun down or lights out and settle down thinking its night
time due to the brown oxidized water.......In a preform or liner pond
its not hard to reverse th edose of PP, but in a large pond it woud
be a very expensive proposition. I know if I can safely dose large
ponds in excess of 1.6 million gallons correctly, y'all can easily do
a smaller liner or preform type pond and have a lot more saftey
devices built into the process than possible with a natural pond. PP
doseing is not hard to do and ponds, fish and plants can actually
benefit from it if done as a sort of preventative measure.....like
early spring, or late fall..

Regards




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I forgot more about ponds and koi than I'll ever know!