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Chris Hogg · 27-02-2007, 08:50 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening

On 26 Feb 2007 09:40:04 GMT, wrote:

We have a site where we have cleared a number of large (i.e 50ft high)
Leylandii and we're thinking of planting some rhododendrons there.

From what I have read etc. it would seem that they will like the
acidity etc. but I'm not quite sure if the ground will be damp enough
for them. Although there is a lot of humus the underlying ground is
sandy and well drained so it's relatively dry and rainfall is low
(we're in Suffolk) - though you might not think so just at the moment!

So, will rhododenrons be OK?

Rhodies do need plenty of water, especially in hot dry weather and
when they're in full growth. When you plant them, dig in plenty of
organic matter such as leafmould, compost from your own heap or peat
if you have neither of those. This will help retain moisture in the
soil, as well as restoring some life to it to make up for the ravages
of the Leylandii. Remember they like acid conditions, and most general
purpose composts from garden centres are slightly alkaline. The
exception is ericaceous compost. Don't plant them any deeper than they
are in the pot when you get them, and after planting give them a good
thick mulch of leafmould or peat, but if your own compost contains a
lot of soil, I wouldn't use it for mulching. The mulch must be coarse
to let the rhodie roots breathe. Some shade is also a good idea, but
if you've recently removed some leylandii, I don't imagine there'll be
much of that.

Newly planted rhodies should be watered in well, and will require more
attention in their first season than well-established rhodies. Rhodies
that are suffering stress due to drought will show it by wilting, but
ideally you should get them watered before that happens. In really
hot, dry weather I would water at least every ten days. Spraying the
foliage in the evenings is also a good idea, especially if the soil
appears moist but the plant is still wilted. Remember to use acid
water, preferably rainwater as tap water is often treated to make it
alkaline, if it's not alkaline naturally. If you can't get enough
rainwater and your tap water is alkaline, add a couple of cc of
vinegar to each watering-can, but no more. A peat mulch can form a dry
crust that sheds water and stops it reaching the roots. In this case
lightly disturb the mulch with your fingers to break up the crust
before watering, but don't poke too deeply with e.g. a hoe as you'll
damage the surface roots. Adding a few drops of detergent also helps
the water to wet and penetrate the peat.

--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net