OK got you this. Hope it helps.Re rotation, I reckon we need to keep
the oxygen into the pile, and constant rotation while it may disturb
the buildup of heat, mixes the pile better and you should still
manually stop the rotation of the device.

Decomposing organisms need four key elements to thrive:

1. Nitrogen 50%
2. Carbon 50%
3. Moisture
4. Oxygen

For best results, mix materials high in nitrogen (such as clover,
fresh grass clippings,

and livestock manure) and those high in carbon (such as dried leaves
and twigs).

If there is not a good supply of nitrogen-rich material, a handful of
general lawn fertilizer

will help the nitrogen-carbon ratio. Moisture can be provided by
rain, but you may need to water

or cover the pile to keep it damp. Be careful not to saturate the
pile. Turning or mixing the

pile provides oxygen. Frequent turning yields faster decomposition.

Getting started

Many materials can be added to a compost pile, including leaves,
grass clippings,

straw, woody brush, vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds,
livestock manure,

sawdust, and shredded paper. Do not use diseased plants, meat scraps
that may

attract animals, and dog or cat manure which can carry disease.
Composting can be

as simple or as involved as you would like, and depends on how much
yard waste you have,

how fast you want results, and the effort you are willing to invest.

Cold or slow composting

With cold or slow composting, you can just pile grass clippings and
dry leaves on the

ground or in a bin. This method requires no maintenance, but it will
take several

months to a year or more for the pile to decompose. Cold composting
works well if

you are short on time needed to tend the compost pile at least every
other day,

have little yard waste, and are not in a hurry to use the compost.
Keep weeds and

diseased plants out of the mix since the temperatures reached with
cold composting

may not be high enough to kill the weed seeds or disease-causing
organisms. Add yard

waste as it accumulates. Shredding or chopping speeds up the process.

To easily shred material, run your lawn mower over small piles of
weeds and trimmings.

Cold composting has been shown to be better at suppressing soil-borne
diseases than

hot composting. Cold composting also leaves more non-decomposed bits
of material,

which can be screened out if desired.

Hot composting

Hot composting requires more work, but with a few minutes a day and
the right

ingredients you can have finished compost in a few weeks depending on
weather

conditions. The composting season coincides with the growing
season. External temperature has an effect too!

When conditions are favorable for plant growth, those same conditions
work

well for biological activity in the compost pile. However, since compost

generates heat, the process may continue later into the autumn or winter.

Hot piles do best when high-carbon material and high-nitrogen material

are mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio. A pile with the minimum dimensions of 3'
x 3' x 3'

is needed for efficient heating. For best heating, make a heap that is
4 or 5

feet in each dimension. As decomposition occurs, the pile will shrink.

If you don't have this amount at one time, simply stockpile your
materials

until a sufficient quantity is available for proper mixing.

Hot piles reach 110 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, killing most weed seeds

and plant diseases. Studies have shown that compost produced at these

temperatures has less ability to suppress diseases in the soil since

these temperatures may kill some of the beneficial bacteria necessary

to suppress disease.

WOW what a lot of things to take into account.
Back to my compost heap. It seems to work, and I'm in no hurry...so
its not being watched either.