Thread: Post and rail
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Old 22-04-2007, 06:52 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
Chris Hogg Chris Hogg is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2006
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Default Post and rail

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 00:07:57 +0100, Janet Tweedy
wrote:

Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in
post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole
along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with
a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn.

I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round
alternatives to metposts.

Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits
of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6
foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below?


Janet


For solid fencing, I believe the ROT is 1ft below ground for every 2ft
above, but I guess for a more open structure you can get away with
less depth. When I did our wind-break fencing I dug holes down to the
length of my arm-plus-trowel when lying flat on the ground, IYSWIM.
This keeps them fairly narrow. An empty tin-can helps in scooping out
the soil. I put a flat stone in the bottom, put the post in place
supported vertically by a couple of temporary props driven into the
ground at angles, and filled around the post with rapid-setting
post-hole mix, available from DIY sheds. You pour it in dry, then
water it afterwards. It goes off in ten minutes or so, full strength
after about 24hrs IIRC.

If you can screw the rails to the posts (electric screwdriver) it
doesn't shake them nearly so much as hammering in nails.


--
Chris

E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net