How do I start tomatoes from seed?



#1 Get Fresh Seeds
For the best chances of success, acquire your seeds from reputable
commercial sources. As tomato seeds age, their germination rate decreases.
It is best to use seed that is less than 4 years old; however, seed that is
much older can usually be germinated if has been stored in cool and dry
conditions.

#2 Get a Seed Starting Mix
Garden soil is not a good choice, as it compacts too easily and can harbor
organisms that cause diseases. A commercially prepared seed starting mix,
usually a combination of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, is recommended.
Avoid mixes that have a high fertilizer content, as this causes more
problems than good. Commonly used and recommended mixes are Jiffy Mix,
ProMix, MetroMix and Fafard. Many other brands, or even homemade mixes, can
be used.

Combine the seed starting mix thoroughly with warm water to bring it to a
useable state. This may take quite a lot of mixing, as completely dry mixes
can be difficult to wet. Sometimes it's best to let the moistened mix sit
overnight to be sure that it is evenly wet. The final mix should be damp
like a wrung-out sponge, not soaked or soggy.

#3 Select Some Containers
Tomato seeds will germinate in anything as long as the seeds get moisture
and warmth. After germination and initial growth, the seedlings need to be
potted up to larger containers. Containers must be able to drain excess
water. If using old or previously used containers, its best to sterilize
them with a 10% bleach solution.

Your choice of containers for potting up depends on the number of plants you
desire. Professional nurseries use growing "flats" with various-sized
plastic cell inserts. Many sizes and kinds of flats are commercially
available to the home grower, but they are not essential.

Many home growers use styrofoam or plastic drinking cups with holes poked in
the bottom. Just about anything will work as long as excess water can drain.

#4 Determine When to Start
Many novices fail at starting tomatoes simply because they start too early.
Given the proper care, full-sized tomato transplants can be grown in 6 to 8
weeks.

Before planting seeds, you must determine when your plants can be safely
placed into the garden. Planting outdoors is best done about 1 or 2 weeks
after the average last frost date for your area.

Ask friends or use web resources to find your average last frost date, then
do the math to calculate your seed starting date.

#5 Plant Your Seeds
Fill a small container with damp seed starting mix. Plant your seeds about
1/8 inch (3 mm) deep. Firm the mix lightly to ensure that the seed is in
direct contact with the moist mix. The seed needs to absorb moisture during
the germination process.

You can plant lots of seeds close together because the resulting seedlings
will be moved to larger containers after germination (when the first true
leaves appear).

It is a good idea to provide some sort of covering over your germination
containers to preserve moisture. You can place the container in a plastic
bag or cover it with a sheet of plastic. Allow for some air to circulate but
don't let the mix dry out. Dry seeds will not germinate.

#6 Patiently Wait for Germination
Place the germination container in a warm location out of direct sunlight.
Light is not needed during the germination process, but will not be harmful
as long as high temperatures are avoided.

Tomato seeds usually germinate within 5 to 10 days when kept in the optimum
temperature range of 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). Germination is delayed by lower
temperatures and accelerated by higher temperatures. Temperatures below 50F
(10C) or above 95F (35C) are detrimental to germination.

Keep a close eye on the first seedlings, as they need to be moved into
bright light as soon as they emerge from the soil. They will explosively
reach for light, and if the light is not adequate, you will get 3-inch-long
(8 cm long) stems shortly after germination - this is very undesirable. If
this occurs, you could try to transplant to a deeper container, or you may
want to start over.

#7 Put the Seedlings under Light
Very strong light is needed to support tomato growth. A heated greenhouse is
the ultimate location to continue growing your seedlings. A second choice
would be a cold frame (possibly with supplemental heat for cool nights).

Many home growers use inexpensive fluorescent shop lights. A south-facing
windowsill can work but usually presents more problems than the fluorescent
shop light setup.

If fluorescent shop lights are used, the leaves of the plants must be within
inches of the bulbs. Use your own creativity to make a setup that gets the
plants directly under the bulbs. The lights should remain on for 16 to 18
hours per day.

#8 Monitor the Plants as They Grow On
Tomato seedlings grow best at a temperature of about 65F (18C) with some air
circulation and lots of light.

When watering, most growers soak the mix and then let it get nearly dry
before providing more water.

When the plants develop their first true leaves, they should be transplanted
into larger individual containers. The plants actually benefit from this
re-potting step, as it helps them develop a strong root system. The plants
may be set deeply into their new containers to shorten the height of the
seedling.

Most commercial seed starting mixtures have a small amount of fertilizer
that will support small seedlings for some time. Depending on the components
of your starting mix, you may need to begin fertilizing. If you do
fertilize, do it very, very sparingly with a weak dilution.

Depending on the size of your containers and your growing conditions, you
may need to pot up a second or third time to prevent your plants from
becoming rootbound.

The plants require good lighting to continue to grow well. Place the plants
where they get plenty of sunlight, and if that is not possible or adequate,
use fluorescent fixtures, or specialized high-intensity grow lamps, or use a
combination of natural and artificial lighting.

Keeping large tomato plants indoors, under artifical lighting, can be quite
difficult. To avoid problems, don't start too early. The best solution to
the lighting dilemma is to plan your seed starting date so that the
transplants reach a reasonable size along with the arrival of suitable
outdoor temperatures.

#9 Harden Off your Transplants
Introduce the plants to outdoor conditions slowly. This is called "hardening
off". If it is not done slowly your plants may be shocked and their growth
may temporarily cease.

The longer the plants remains indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate
them to the outdoors. Avoid full sun and wind when you first move them
outside.

Cold frames can be used to harden off the plants. The covers can remain in
place on inclement days and removed on moderate days.

Temporary structures can be built from plastic sheeting. Buildings and
fences can be used to provide sun and wind protection while the plants adapt
to outside conditions.

If really cold weather is forecast 40F (4C), it is best to bring the plants
back inside. Freezing temperatures will destroy your plants (and it happens
fast).

After the transplants are hardened off, they can be planted to their final
outdoor growing locations either in the garden or in large growing
containers. Most agree that any early blossoms should be plucked off prior
to transplanting. Others leave the early blossoms in place, especially if
the transplant is strong, healthy, and not rootbound.

Common Problems

Leggy Seedlings
The plants can become "leggy," the stems being elongated and limp, and the
foliage sparse. Leggy seedlings usually occur due to insufficient lighting,
too much heat, or too much fertilizer. Suggested remedies, short of starting
over, are to repot the plants deeper as described earlier in Step #8, and to
use a fan to improve air circulation and keep temperatures moderated,
resulting in stockier and stronger plants.

Damping Off
Characterized by lack of germination (pre-emergent) or causes narrowing of
the newly emerged stems at the soil line and the tiny seedlings then flop
over and die (post-emergent). Various fungi are responsible for the
condition and they are found in high concentrations in any mix with real
soil. That's why it's best to use the artificial seed starting mixes
mentioned in step #2. Also, it's very important to be sure that plastic
domes or baggies on your containers are not airtight. If these precautions
are observed, it is unlikely that you will experience damping off.

Slow Growth
When seedlings refuse to grow it is usually because the temperature is too
low or the nutrient level is insufficient.

Stuck Leaves
Sometimes the cotyledons (the first leaves formed from the seed) have
trouble getting loose from the seed coating. Be patient, as the leaves will
usually escape. You could wet the seed coating, or you could try to
carefully pinch off the seed coat, but if you pinch off the cotyledons, the
seedling will likely die. A simple way to wet the seedlings is with a spray
bottle of water set to mist. A small drop of saliva is also very effective
at loosening seedcoats.

Over-watering
Many growers fail with tomato plants because they over-water. Soggy soil
will cause seed to rot. Once the seedlings are growing, they should be
watered thoroughly then left un-watered until they are almost ready to wilt.

Over-fertilizing
Overfertilizing can cause seedlings to die, to stop growing, or to grow
rapidly into spindly plants. One or at most 2 applications of very dilute
fertilizer are adequate to get a seedling through to transplant size.




--

Baal

I smile and go off waving
(Amiably) - for that's my way
"MikeCT" wrote in message
...
Try as I might, and unlike Monty Don, I am unable to get my ''Gardener's
Delight' tomato seeds to germinate. Should tomato seeds be germinated in
the dark or the light? May 1st. now and I'm fast running out of patience.

MikeCT




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