For Mike regarding when to prune currants and apples.

Currants
Blackcurrants fruit on previous years wood (though they do fruit on
older wood more productive on younger wood), so the system of pruning
is a renewal system. Generally prunned in the autumn or after
harvest. Remove one third of the older wood. Removing the older wood
often means removing some new wood. If the overall amount of old wood
to be removed is less than the new wood, leave it in place. The aim
should be to produce an open centered bush.
Redcurrants
Redcurrant bushes are pruned in a manner similar to gooseberries, in
that they fruit on spurs on older wood. The aim here should be to
keep a clear leg of trunk of around 4-6 inches, though I have to say
that prior to the removal of the fruit garden at Harlow Carr, there
where four bushes successfully growing as multi stemmed bushes. It
works so long as there is good ventilation. Again, an open centered
bush is the aim. In the dormat period, leaders are cut back by half
and laterals reduced to two buds.

As for your apples I take it that your tree may be an age and in need
of renovation (as opposed to a young tree which needs pruning to
develope a structure. The two techniques are different) - Here are a
few steps to take.
..
First, this kind of pruning is done when the tree is dormant and
there
is no hard cold spell that could damage the exposed tissues (If its
too cold to stand out side its too cold to prune is the basic
tennant). Secondly
if there is a lot do do, then the work should be spread over at least
two, preferably more, winters. As the tree is of an age, be careful
as

to what is safe to stand on if you are climbing it.
..
1. As with any pruning remove any dead, dieing or damaged branches.
Think larger banches rather than the fine growth, those that need a
saw
rather than seceteurs. For the most part you will be cutting back to
healthy growth.
2. Remove branches that are growing the wrong way - they want to bee
going outwards not back into the crown of the tree.
3. Next are the crossing branches, here you need to stand back and
look at the tree from several positions to descide which branch to
remove.
4. Deal with branches that are too high, too low and too spreading.
Having done all this you will start to have a framework to work with.
5. Then it is a question of overcrowding. This is the enemy -
congestion limits light and air flow.
6. To help prevent fungal infections spreading, paint over large
wounds with a fungicidal paint such as Medo, available from good
garden
centres.


The best advice I can give is to take your time, follow the steps in
order. Yes you are likely to go around the tree a few / several
times,
but by following the steps you avoid being too drastic and being left
with a stump.


Winter pruning encourages growth, so don't be suprised to see lots of
new growth next season. Come summer, the new growth can be thinned
to
select new branches.


It will probably take three to five years to get the tree into shape


The RHS has a leaflet - which can be found at
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...fruit_tree.asp

Good luck
Clifford
Batry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire