bent said:

What happened to Miracle Grow potting soil? Thats what I would have used
until I was told to use sand or perlite. I am not mixing a big batch, just
enough to take a clipping from my dying Rose of Sharon and make a new one;
to do a switch in time. I am quite out of my element here, but I was told to
use sand or perlite, whatever it is or does, or why. I will need to go the
HomeDepot, and if n/a there, I'll travel a little further to a nursery.

You want something that drains well. Peat-based potting soils (like MG)
will retain too much moisture, and could rot the cuttings or make them more
susceptable to damping off (google it, if you don't know what it means).
That's the "why". I prefer sand.

Also I was told to use a few pots, with a few cuttings in each. I understand
increasing the chances of getting a good one with a greater number of pots,
but how can you use a few cuttings in each pot.

Is your Hibiscus syriacus a clumping variety? That is, are there many
"trunks" coming out at ground level? If so, then you'll want to start
several cuttings in a pot.

I have black pot(s) 12" dia x 12"H.

That's a 2# (gallon) pot. That's a bit large for what you're wanting to do,
to start with. I would use a 4" pot to start. Then, when it becomes
root-bound, move it to a 1# pot. Once it becomes root-bound in that, it
would go to a 2# or 3# pot. Again, once it's root-bound, then it's ready to
go into the ground. Don't rush this, it takes time.

How would I space 3 twigs in one pot to wait to see which is good/best?

You're not doing it to 'wait and see which is good/best'. You're not going
to thin them out unless some of the cuttings die.

A small circle all in the center, or 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 from one end,
in line? A 6"Dia circle in the center?

Put 4-5 cuttings, spaced evenly, in the original pot (not something as
large as a 2#).

Would you move them later?

Not until they're root-bound.

How can you move it, dig it up, or make a trough and slide it?

The same as planting any other potted plant, in a larger container. Place
one hand across the soil level, supporting the entire mass. Turn the pot
completely upside down, so the plant slides out (DO NOT pull the plants
out, either from the top, or while it's upside down). If it won't slide,
gently squeeze the sides of the pot (while still supporting the plants),
until it slides out.

Would you pull 2 of
the 3, how long before you know to keep one and pull the others, I only need
one transplant?

If it's grown as a standard, then you'll thin to one cutting. If it's a
clumping variety, leave them all.

What if the good one is the side one? Isn't the point of
having a big pot having lots of room on all sides? Or does 1/3 over not
matter?

Don't over-think this, man. It's not rocket science.

Will I be waiting with three pot(s), with 1 best plant in each.

I rarely start one transplant, when it's going to be replacing a plant.
That's a bit risky. Hell, I rarely start one transplant of anything. If I
end up with more plants than I need, I can always find someone who wants
the extras.

I think the required transplant height will require 4 years of total growth.

Why do you think that? Where did you come up with that number?


As to the procedure for taking the cuttings...

The best method, for the plant you're trying to propagate, would be a
soft-wood cutting. this would be from THIS season's growth ONLY. This is
the green, soft part of the branch, near the tip. Avoid material with
flower buds if possible. Remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing
cuttings so the cutting¢s energy can be used in producing new roots rather
than flowers.

Early morning is the best time to take cuttings, because the plant is fully
turgid. It is important to keep the cuttings cool and moist until they are
stuck. An ice chest or dark plastic bag with wet paper towels may be used
to store cuttings. If there will be a delay in sticking cuttings, store
them in a plastic bag in your refrigerator.

While terminal parts of the stem are best, a long shoot can be divided into
several cuttings. Cuttings are generally 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sharp,
thin-bladed pocket knife or sharp pruning shears. If necessary, dip the
cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts
water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy
ones.

Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting. On
large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half to reduce
water loss and conserve space.

Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds can be a valuable tool in
stimulating rooting of some plants that might otherwise be difficult to
root. Prevent possible contamination of the entire supply of rooting
hormone by putting some in a separate container before treating cuttings.
Any material that remains after treatment should be discarded and not
returned to the original container. Be sure to tap the cuttings to remove
excess hormone when using a powder (rooting hormone also comes in a liquid
form, but it's more expensive).

Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half their length into the medium.
Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem (do not insert the cuttings
upside down). Make sure the buds are pointed up. Space cuttings just far
enough apart to allow all leaves to receive sunlight. Water again after
inserting the cuttings if the containers or frames are 3 or more inches in
depth. Cover the cuttings with plastic and place in indirect light. Avoid
direct sun. Keep the medium moist (NOT soaking wet), until the cuttings
have rooted. Rooting will be improved if the cuttings are misted on a
regular basis.

If you want to use hardwood cuttings, it's best to wait until the plant
goes dormant. The rest of the procedure is the same.

HTH
--

Eggs

-Thou shalt not weigh more than thy refrigerator.