One of the problems with lowering the pH with sulfur is that the soil will
revert back.
Something that may interest you. I did a few soil studies on my own in old
growth forest. We tested for many essential elements and pH. In a old
growth forest which contained white pine and hemlock we got a pH average of
4.2 in the upper four inches of soil. This sample was taken from
Pennsylvania with the approval of the US Forest Service. I took the samples
in the area of soil where the mycorrhizae and rhizoplane was. Not inside
the rhizoplane. I understand that it is very difficult to get samples
actually from the rhizoplane. That is really where the samples should come
from because you will get different results there. As far as turf goes, it
likes high pH. Properly applying mulch could greatly help your situation.
Correct Mulching "suggestion". See "proper mulching".
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html

Two well written articles on soil chemistry and such are he
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/shigo/RHIZO.html

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/shigo/CHEM.html


[The soil report recommendation is to add 32 pounds of
sulphur (sulfur) to a depth of 12 inches per 1000 square feet (or 8
pounds to a 3 inch depth).]

The rhizoplane and rhizosphere where the absorption takes place, is usually
in the upper four inches of soil. There is no way I would put the sulfur
12" deep. I would think it would move downward rather then upward.
Actually I would


Several internet sources recommend putting
the sulphur in approx. 12 inch deep holes in a 2 foot by 2 foot grid
around the tree. They also suggest a 1 to 1 ratio of sulphur and iron
sulfate (ferrous sulphate/copperas) to add iron in addition to
lowering the pH.
Question 1: Will the localized high sulphur concentrations do harm to
the trees?
Question 2: What is the highest sulphur application rate for grass
(lawn) (bluegrass and fescue) without damaging it?