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Old 20-10-2007, 02:37 PM posted to rec.gardens
jmagerl jmagerl is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 23
Default Sulphur to lower pH for iron chlorosis in pin oak trees

I think you said it when you said "The ingredients go to a french drain
consisting of LIMESTONE rock of all different sizes." The acid eats the
limestone and neutralizes it. Hence no change in the pin oaks.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
"symplastless" wrote in message
. ..
One of the problems with lowering the pH with sulfur is that the soil
will revert back.
Something that may interest you. I did a few soil studies on my own in
old growth forest. We tested for many essential elements and pH. In a
old growth forest which contained white pine and hemlock we got a pH
average of 4.2 in the upper four inches of soil. This sample was taken
from Pennsylvania with the approval of the US Forest Service. I took the
samples in the area of soil where the mycorrhizae and rhizoplane was.
Not inside the rhizoplane. I understand that it is very difficult to get
samples actually from the rhizoplane. That is really where the samples
should come from because you will get different results there. As far as
turf goes, it likes high pH. Properly applying mulch could greatly help
your situation.
Correct Mulching "suggestion". See "proper mulching".
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html

Two well written articles on soil chemistry and such are he
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/shigo/RHIZO.html

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/shigo/CHEM.html


[The soil report recommendation is to add 32 pounds of
sulphur (sulfur) to a depth of 12 inches per 1000 square feet (or 8
pounds to a 3 inch depth).]


The rhizoplane and rhizosphere where the absorption takes place, is
usually in the upper four inches of soil. There is no way I would put
the sulfur 12" deep. I would think it would move downward rather then
upward. Actually I would


Several internet sources recommend putting
the sulphur in approx. 12 inch deep holes in a 2 foot by 2 foot grid
around the tree. They also suggest a 1 to 1 ratio of sulphur and iron
sulfate (ferrous sulphate/copperas) to add iron in addition to
lowering the pH.
Question 1: Will the localized high sulphur concentrations do harm to
the trees?
Question 2: What is the highest sulphur application rate for grass
(lawn) (bluegrass and fescue) without damaging it?




I have a well. From which the well pump draws water. In this water is
much diluted hydrogen sulfide gas. To reduce this gas significantly, I
use a aerator bottle. The bottle then carries a significant amount of
diluted sulphuric acid. Every 24 hours by a timer, the bottle is flushed
with the same water. Total flush amount is 35 gallons. The ingredients
go to a french drain consisting of limestone rock of all different sizes.
The drain area is 10' wide X 10' long X 8' deep. The french drain is
uphill from several live oaks in the yard proper. During heavy rain
periods, above the french drain, the St. Augustine is very spongy when
walking on it. Has been this way for 2 years now.

Its obvious to me the live oaks immediately downhill from this french
drain are getting various amounts of, and various concentrations of H2SO4
(sulfuric acid). Yet, appear no different than other live oaks growing
wild in the surrounding area. The closest live oak has its trunk within
15 ft of the french drain boundary on the downhill side from the french
drain.

Native surface soil is nil to insignificant. Surface soil is generally a
gray clay that is always very quick to dry. Subsurface is fractured
limestone and caliche.

Is this addition of diluted sulphuric acid detrimental or aiding to the
soil and subsurface soil, or the live oaks themselves?
Dave