wrote in message
...
im not pushing this but found it interesting
--------------------------------------- 1 litre (U.S.=1
quart) of boiling water (hot tap water will also work but not
quite as well)
5 tablespoons vinegar
6 tablespoons salt (regular table salt)
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons dishwasher(machine) detergent
to make a gallon multiply by 4
______________________________________________
Explanations
Natural Weed Killers are simple substances with a direct and obvious
action. They destroy plant life for a short period. They are substances
encountered naturally but in small quantities. Their presence is
well-known and normally not harmful. But when applied in larger doses
the results are usually obvious in a very short time.
As always these methods need due caution. But they act at the point they
are used. After treatment their damaging effect is dissipated.
Artificial Weed Killers (Herbicides)
These are more complex 'man-made' materials with indirect and subtle
activity. They have no natural occurrence. They effect the biochemical
processes of growing plants from within. Examples of these are 2 4 D,
Atrazine, Glyphosate, Clopyralid. They may be described as organic by
chemists, but are banned in organic gardening.
As they are not produced naturally, organisms are not adapted to their
presence and we do not know the full effects of releasing them into the
environment. They can work in tiny quantities.
Many of these complex herbicides take time to act and likewise in nature
their ill effects may not be immediately obvious. The chemical
interactions are complex. It is impossible to design a thorough
investigation cheaply, if at all. Scientists like to do specific
experiments on one process at a time, but this approach only scrapes the
surface. Sometimes the inactive components of a weed killer formulation
(e.g. surfactants) pose more problems than the weed killer itself.
Are we to study the effect on thousands of chemical processes and their
interactions? Should we turn the whole earth into a laboratory? No, but
especially not when there is a better solution.
___________________________________________
So let's take a look at the performance of Natural Weed Killers.
Acid Weed Killers
ACETIC ACID
Vinegar is made of Acetic Acid along with other weak organic acids. It
has become a popular 'cottage garden' alternative for those who dislike
modern herbicides. It works by disrupting membranes and causing leakage
of plant cells. The damage to plants appears rapidly and even quicker on
hot days.
Household Vinegar contains 5% acetic acid which may not be strong
enough; 15-20% acetic acid solutions are more effective. Take care, as
acid can damage you too, especially if it splashes the eye. Also, avoid
industrial vinegars in the organic garden.
In tests, PennState College of Agricultural Sciences found acetic acid
gave over 90% control within 24 hours of application. Areas treated with
a single application of 5% acetic acid gave 33% control 9 weeks later,
but with 3 treatments of 20% acetic acid control remained above 90% even
after 9 weeks.
The soil can be acidified if drenched by acid treatment. Findings show
that the weak organic acid lasts only a few days. But given the results
I would like to see the results of sowings and plantings made at
intervals following treatment. Penn State College don't compare the
contribution of plant re-growth with weed seed germination.
The acid is not around long enough to have any lasting effect on
earthworms, soil invertebrates or organic matter breakdown. The good
news is that it won't cause any lasting or insidious harm to pets or
children. Remember to avoid splashes (especially in eyes) and wash off
immediately.
It can kill Canadian Thistle, Clover, Dandelion, Foxtail, Ivy Leaf,
Milkweed, Pigweed, Poison Hemlock, Ragweed, Quack grass, Bluegrass, plus
mosses, liverworts and more. However it is not selective and harms all
the plants it touches.
FATTY ACIDS
These work essentially in the same way as acetic acid. Of the 2 I
estimate that fatty acids have the edge. I'm guessing that they are less
harmful, that their soapy properties aid uptake but reduce spreading in
the soil. Obviously you can't use these when and where you are growing.
So it's probably best confined to spot treatments, perhaps when you need
extra help with weed control and to avoid the seriously nasty
herbicides.
Remember, if you burn a hole in the lawn with these treatments it is
important to fill the empty space as soon as possible. Sow seed and
promote strong thick re-growth with the help of organic fertilizers. If
your lawn becomes patchy it will become weedier. Always prevent weed
seeds being distributed.
Salt Weed Killers
A spoon full of salt will kill Dandelions and the like. Salt draws water
out of cells to leave them dry, and salty soils kill plant roots. So
target its application and use sparingly.
Excess salt poisons the soil. Many important organisms: bacteria, fungi,
earthworms; will be killed by salinity. It will eventually wash out,
even so I would not use it on land intended for cultivating plants. For
some gardeners it is an option to consider with drives and gravel areas
where plants are not intended to grow and where run off can be
contained. Remember, salt will not biodegrade, so regular use will
eventually be detrimental to surrounding areas.

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

I just pull mine but I'm old fashion.

Under no circumstances would I ever use Roundup, Weed B Gone, Weed and Feed
or any of that other crap. Even under the best of circumstances it is
irresponsible and they usually causes more problems than they solve.

A good place for anyone thinking of using man made chemical on their yard to
get an education:

http://www.mindfully.org/

Other sites of interest:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roundup

http://www.texascenter.org/publications/pest.pdf

http://www.mischel.com/diary/2001/01/07.htm

http://www.govlink.org/hazwaste/hous...chemicals.html

foolish foolish human race

per monsanto's own words

http://www.mindfully.org/Pesticide/M...SDS25jan01.htm

oh well......

pull your weeds and use soil conditioner

I am consistantly amazed by the lack of responsibility of some of the
members of this ng. Go ahead and flame. I consider it an honor.

Jim Threadgill
Austin TX