View Single Post
  #32   Report Post  
Old 04-11-2007, 08:49 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
Don H3 Don H3 is offline
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Oct 2007
Posts: 47
Default Greenhouses v. Polytunnels

On 4 Nov, 10:16, "judith.lea" wrote:
On Nov 4, 4:59 pm, Martin wrote:
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 16:10:41 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Martin wrote:
On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 13:09:31 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote:


In article , Sacha
writes


Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
[....]


Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
[....]


For some years now we've been treating the teak on our boat with Burgess Wood
Sealer. Other than that it turns a dark brown after about a year, it has worked
very well.


Real teak is resinous and water resistant to start with. It would be a
mighty expensive way to build a greenhouse


The surface of real teak needs looking after. My real teak is 34 years old
--


Martin- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I used to have real teak and I oiled it every year - alas I don't have
it any longer.

Judith


About 20 years ago I "finished" a gazillion
board-feet of ordinary pine and some plywood
with "Watco Dark Walnut Oil Stain" which was
advertised to "oxidize" the outer layers of
the wood as it sealed the surface.
I can't find it now on 3W, but perhaps it
has been renamed Watco Danish Oil, which I do
find...
Anyhow I can't recommend it highly enough:
After 20 years even the pieces that have been
constantly exposed to the sun/wind/rain,
although now dulled, still display a beautiful
depth and emphasis to the underlying grain
Last week I had occasion to cut-up one of the
boards with a skil-saw to provide extra inside
shelves for a cabinet. It went well until I
reached the final 3/8 inch of the cut (every cut!)
where the edge literally exploded: the wood was so
*hardened* by the oxidizing stain that the saw
*could*not*cut* that outgoing-edge without it
splintering explosively. I always had trouble
driving nails into it, usually needing pilot
holes, but I'm flabbergasted that it is so
hardened that a circular saw couldn't cut it.

I give Watco my highest possible recommendation.

P.S. It remains completely weatherproof and
rot-free. Even the pieces I have sealing the
gaps around my window air-conditioner, which
is fully exposed to South and West sunlight,
and our frequent (Seattle) rainstorms. (I'm
sure by choosing the darker color I also get
extra protection from ultraviolet rays.)