On 27 Nov, 11:54, Martin Bonner wrote:
It looks to me like it was hacked back a few years ago to the thick
branches. The hacked ends then sprouted lots of water shoots, and you
have lots of thin branches going everywhere.
The small wriggly twigs are fine - they are where you are most likely
to get flowers and more side shoots. It's the long straight twigs/
branches that aren't doing you any good.
I'd start by checking if there's any dead or dying wood. If so, cut
it out. Then I'd try to cut back say 2/3rds of the long straight
shoots by 2/3rds, and cut back the remaining 1/3 by 1/3. (The idea is
that you want to get a variety of lengths, rather than cutting
everything back and getting another rash of water shoots).
When you cut back, cut back to an outward or downward facing shoot
(that way you won't get such a crowded centre). Try and arrange for
horizontal branches rather than vertical (horizontal fruits better).
I wouldn't worry about the canker/woolly aphid if any. When we moved
into our last house, there where two apple trees clearly on their last
legs, so we quickly planted some more. Ten years later they were
still fruiting strongly! (and the new trees were doing OK too).
Incidentally, are you sure it isn't a crab apple? Was the fruit
astringent when ripe?

Yes to everything! Crab apple came to mind to me too because of the
reference of the size of the apples Nick is getting. Also if I can add
my two pennies worth, clear out a good size ring on the ground to bare
earth around the tree. Diseases and bugs harbour there and apples
don't like competition with weeds/grass etc. I'd also use a pheromone
trap to get the chaps of the moth species to maximise next year's
yield. That and a dry sunny spring for a show of blossoms and Nick
ought to get a nice result )