Google Yin-Tung Wang of Texas A&M. Eventually you'll get to a list of his
articles on phalaenopsis. They explain all.

K Barrett

"Mark_OK" wrote in message
...
That might explain my abundance of spikes this year. I left the plants
outside longer this year - until night time temps were dipping into the
mid forties. My only exception is my tolumnia, I had to bring them in
about mid summer because the grasshoppers couldn't get enough of them and
they are in spike right along with the other plants. I wasn't aware that
warm temps would inhibit spikes. I had a few phals bloom this summer when
temps were well into the 90's but I assume the spikes started during the
cooler spring weather. Will have to try tricking a few and see how that
works out.

Mark
"Savor" wrote in message
...
Dusty,
I would agree with what Kenni wrote. While in Taiwan for the IPA
Symposium we learned that the best and double infloresences spring
from below the fourth pair of leaves. So the orchid needs to be mature
enough to reach 5 pairs of leaves or more. The orchids are maintained
at 83 degrees which inhibits spiking and promotes lush foliage. They
are meticulously monitored for the cycle of wet to almost dry. I don't
recall about fertilizer. When an order comes in they are shifted to
the cool house for 21 days. It was amazing to see that every orchid
was on que pushing up thick healthy spikes. I believe that most
multifloral hybrids can be prompted to double spike. Beyond that it is
a matter of what the Home Depot wanted. Single spikes are just not
shipped.
About fertilizer I think that regular fertilizer during the warm
period would also contribute to great leaves and roots. The addage
"weak weekly" comes to mind.
So inhibit the spikes at 83 degrees and grow big heavy leaves... five
deep. Monitor the moisture cycle. Then trick'em! with a sudden cool
spell at 55-60 degrees. Bingo! I hope you get some doubles.
Lee

www.classicorchidtours.com -- New! Thailand Tour
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On Dec 1, 3:34 pm, "Kenni Judd" wrote:
I've heard several theories, the one that makes most sense to me is that
the
plants are held back from blooming (usually through temperature control)
for
a year or two past maturity, then pushed. Similar in a way to one of
Martin
Motes' strategies for getting awards on his vandaceous -- cut a spike or
two
while they're still short, before they initiate buds, forcing the plant
to
save up its energy for the next blooming and thereby making it more
spectacular. Kenni