When we moved into our house, the previous owners had pruned the azaleas
back to a stump at ground level. They were even with the ground and I didn't
even know what they were until the next year or 2. I have done very light
to no pruning until last year, and one was taller than me. The other was up
to the eaves, about 1-12 feet. I did cut them back to around 5 feet last
year, and I wish I had followed everyone's suggestions to leave them alone.
In spite of cutting them while the withered bloom was still on, they put out
a pitiful show this year and I really missed it. In years past, all you can
see is solid fuschia from ground to top.

Vicky
"Stephen Henning" wrote in message
news
wrote:

I've lived in my home for 1.5 years, and when we moved in, the
previous owners had 2 azalea bushes. Both are about 12 feet tall and
about 10ft. wide. They are enormous. I don't want to remove them
because I believe that they have been on the property a long time...

The problem is...I pruned them last year quite a bit (still too
large), but I began cutting very thick branches just under the surface
of the leaves. I want the bush to be much smaller, but do I need to
cut it down to nothing, and hope it grows back? I am willing to cut
the whole thing so there is nothing left but a stump and let it revive
itself, but is that the best way to have it "start over" ?

If necessary, you can remove a great deal of material. It is a general
rule to not remove over 1/3 of the leaf area each year. Pruning is
generally used to control unsatisfactory height or width of a plant. I
don't prune very often and try to limit pruning to plants which have a
shape that is unsatisfactory or dead branches. If I want to cut trusses
for bouquets, I always cut the tallest flowers since this helps keep the
plant within bounds.

Severe pruning is not uncommon with rhododendrons and azaleas. A healthy
plant can be cut to the ground and will usually come back. Rhododendrons
and azaleas have dormant buds beneath the bark which sprout to form new
growth after severe pruning. However, Richard Colbert reported that such
attempts at Tyler Arboretum were only successful if the plant had enough
sun light. Those in heavy shade frequently died. He recommend first
opening up the shade by thinning the forest canopy. Then he recommends
just removing some of the top to induce new growth at the base. Then
when that new growth is established, the remainder of the top can be
removed.
--
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Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6