Howdy, y'all. Yes, I'm still around. I'd venture to say I'm
probably one of the few- if not the only- to read every single message
that has gone through this newsgroup since '94. I don't post much since
the questions are usually handled very well. Plus, I haven't figured out
how to quote messages using pico in this shell account, and I'm not about
to learn some newsreader. How's that for stubborn old cootness?

Anyway- the first question as to why there's such low germination
would depend upon viability. Is the plant producing good seed to begin
with? Light microscopy at 100x or even a little less is enough to see if
the seeds have embryos. If the embryo count is low, all other bets are
off- the seeds aren't viable to begin with if there's no embryo.

In order to get good embryos, the cross needs to be good. There
are intrinsic issues with compatibility- usually genetic, sometimes
mechanical. Getting the right pollen into the right plant is essential;
for hybridizing, the pollinia from the larger flower goes into the smaller
one. Imagine how Soph. coccinea pollinia would have to grow pollen tubes
all the way down the column in an 8" cattleya. Ain't gonna happen. Once
the pollinia are selected, some hybridizers treat the pollen; as
mentioned, enzymatic lens cleaning solution works for some. Others report
whetting the pollinia with their saliva- which is heavy in enzymes that
do... who knows what. Others dip it in "7-Up," or other soda (I think one
grower recommended Sunkist to me).

Why these treatments work is unknown; perhaps the low pH of sodas
work, along with some sort of "skin" effect. If the stigmatic surface is
dry, that's too bad for the pollen grains. Once soda dries, it leaves a
sticky coating behind; maybe soda helps seal in the fluids on the
stigmatic surface? Your guess is as good as mine. Good physical contact is
a must; mashing the pollinia into the stigmatic surface (which should be
fresh- for flowers that last more than a few days, they should be
pollinated within the first week- and immediately if they last only a day
or so) helps foster the formation and growth of pollen tubes, which is
very important to the fertilization of the ovary. Get that toothpick in
there, and render the pollinia into the stigmatic surface.

And then it's X months of waiting, until the capsules split.
Again, check seeds for embryo counts. Mature, healthy seed will have fat
embryos, while barren seed will look like dehydrated husks. Dry seed
carefully for a day or so, either in air or in a desiccator with some
calcium chloride. Package and store on clean, dry paper.

Sowing isn't such a big deal for common genera such as
epidendrums. However, as disinfection is the step that makes everyone
(myself included) whine like a bad serpentine belt on a December morning,
I find it best to sow on at least two types of media. Disinfection hard,
sowing easy: may as well make the best of the issues at hand, right?

So, I disinfect the seeds; 8% bleach solution (which is now 6%
sodium hypochlorite, versus the old 5.25%, so less needs to be used) is
fine. I use fancier stuff for really nasty seeds; not everyone is so good
about drying and treating their seeds right after harvesting, but clean,
dry seed is readily disinfected in this manner. Wash once, and sow on
media. I use P669 (which is PhytoTech Labs P668 with 5 grams of B852
banana powder added), and one or more other media. My second favorite is
Western Labs W2.5 with coconut liquid. My third favorite is N1, which I
originally developed for Nepenthes, but it works well for some weird-o
orchids. From there, you get into really exotic formulations. If it's not
some weird cypripedium, it'll germinate on one of those three media if
it'll germinate at all.

I think that answered all the important questions. If not, I'll be
back in a couple of days or so.

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-AJHicks
Chandler, AZ