For all of my grafting I use Parafilm grafting tape, Arbex Seal and
Heal (as its a liquid) and a very very sharp knife.

Some words of advice. On these dark and frosty snowy evenings, get
yourself some Willow branches 10mm dia, and try practice grafting
willow onto willow. Then progress up to some wood that is a bit harder
like hazel, before trying the real thing. It is easy, but its like
everything its got its knack.

I only ever use the following type of grafts
1 - Whip and tongue
2 - Saddle
3 - Chip Budding

All of which can be done in very late winter to spring, dependant on
type of plant.

In fact I have just done some Saddle grafting of Indian Chestnut onto
Horse Chestnut. But I then keep them potted up warm at 20 deg C till
it takes, then in the greenhouse at 5 - 10 deg C

Check out

General grafting -
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...ruit_trees.asp

Whip & Tongue
http://www.rhs.org.uk/Learning/Publi...1199_graft.htm

Saddle -
For some reason rhs does not list it
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/grafting.html

Chip Budding -
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...ip_budding.asp

Just for interest - it seems tomato plants are being grafted onto
potatoes to get a dual greenhouse crop.


No, no! Grafting is done in the early spring before the new season's
growth begins, using scions from last year's growth. Budding is done in
late summer.

There is no reason why the rootstocks should be weak. Normally one uses
one- or two-year-old rootstock so that they are not too much bigger in
diameter than the scion.

Roy.