The message
from Jonathan Campbell contains these words:
Jeff Layman wrote:
Jonathan Campbell wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:

I've got a well established ivy problem growing up in a narrow crack
between two areas of concrete on my garden boundary - about 30 foot
length of the stuff. Digging up the concrete is not an option so I'm
looking for the most effect chemical warfare to apply for a permanent
[...]

Can you cut the main trunk(s) somewhere; as close to the ground as
possible. Apply undiluted glyphosate (Roundup) to the lower cut (I'm
finding it hard to get the correct terminology) using a paintbrush or
dab it on with a sponge or cloth. If you cannot get undiluted glyphosate
(try agricultural suppliers), then maybe someone can suggest an
alternative like a brushwood killer.

The best way to apply glyphosate is when the leaves are ON the
plant, as it
is absorbed through the leaves. After spraying, leave for a few days and
then cut the whole plant down. Any new shoots will soon become
blotched and

The leaves die only after the roots have become ineffective.

Not if you've cut them down, they don't!

die, but if any escape just spray the new leaves with more glyphosate.


Not for ivy, I'm pretty certain. Just casually, while spraying weeds, I
have sprayed ivy --- no effect was ever evident.

You have to use detergent - ivy leaves take a lot of wetting, and the
best way to speed things up is to bruise/cut/slash them with a thin
cane.

Unless ivy is different from trees and shrubs of my experience, that's
the last you will ever see of growth from that root.

If drilling is easier, then application via drilled holes should be
equally effective.

Glyphosate claims to damage only the plant -- by stopping its roots from
extracting nutrients from the earth.

No it doesn't. Glyphosate inhibits an enzyme, leading to depletion
of key
amino acids that are necessary for protein synthesis and plant growth.


I don't know the exact details of the kill process, but I'll stick with
the advice to apply neat glyphosate to a large cut wound.

Which, IMO, will have no effect - or very little. Any flow of sap at a
cut stem will be upwards - there's no photosynthesis taking place and no
'head' of sap for a return flow.

Incidentally, I've just attempted to use a strongish mixture of
glyphosate on an infestation of bluebells that occupy a border where
I've planted raspberries. An opinion, in an article somewhere on the
internet, was that the bluebell leaves are waxy or oily and would not
absorb the chemical properly; the advice (summarised) was to cut or
wound the leaves by twisting before application.

I do hope the bluebells were of the Spanish variety, and not the
indigenous non-scripta?

--
Rusty
Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk