Well, I did a pretty thorough internet search a few years ago with almost no
results. I also checked the local university agricultural library. I think
the detailed technical info on how to force amaryllises is only available in
print form, if it is available at all.

Jangchub, I am honoured to have received a reply from your distinguished
self.

Andrew

"Jangchub" wrote in message
...
Without being specific, growers have huge heating and cooling
chambers, ways of closing off light periods and many different methods
of forcing bulbs into production. All bulbs have a dormant period.
Because there is green on the plant does not mean it isn't dormant.
It's not a big secret. Do a search on forcing whatever you are trying
to force and do it.

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 08:03:50 -0500, "Andrew Ostrander"
wrote:

I have been enjoying success with my amaryliss (Hippeastrum) bulbs in
recent
years, after many years of less success. Now I just leave them on the
window ledge all year, and cut back on their water from September through
December. They get a natural chilling period during winter because the
window ledge is quite chilly. (Winnipeg, Canada).

I used to force dormancy by puting them in the basement in the dark. It
was
never very successful.

I notice that some of the posters here say they don't force dormancy, but
I
also notice that their bulbs are in locations where they get a natural
cool
spell. I think the cool period is necessary for flowering.

You know, commercial growers sell bulbs that are guaranteed to flower, and
do. They know exact methods for reliably producing flowers. I wish I
could
find details on what they do.

Andrew