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Old 03-04-2009, 07:54 PM posted to rec.gardens.edible
Billy[_7_] Billy[_7_] is offline
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Default Ping Bill - homemade fruit brandy questions

In article
,
Frank wrote:

On Mar 30, 3:36*pm, Billy wrote:
In article ,





*Tim wrote:
Ok, here is the recipe as given to me :


3 gallons water
3 lemons, sliced
1 large cake of yeast
10 lbs sugar
2 quarts fruit of choice, pitted, sliced
4 box's white raisins


Boil water for 5 minutes, let cool completely.
Add all ingredients, except raisins.
Stir once a day, for seven days.
Add raisins.
Let set for 21 days, strain, bottle.


Now, I have seen other recipes similar to this on the net,
some have said to cover (airtight) after adding the raisins,
some not....I know enough that I should cover with something
to keep the fruit-flies out, but will the fermenting be done
after only seven days?
Thanks to all for any hints, tips, or experiences......


Tim


Rats, it's always something isn't it?

The faster the wines ferments, the less flavorful it will be. For a
fruity wine 60F - 70F would be sufficient. If you can get it to go at
50F, even better but the fermentation will drag on for a while. For
god's sake, don't let it get near 90F, or it will taste like old inner
tubes.

Try to find an old 5 gallon glass water bottle for your fermenter and a
second one to rack (decant) into. Brewing shops will have plugs and caps
to put on them, with and without an opening for a fermentation lock. Air
(O2) is your enemy. If you have to, use a large garbag bag over the top
of a neutral container (Rubber Maid food grade garbage cans come to
mind) and secure with rubber bands laced together or a bungee cord. Push
down slowly once it is inflated to drive out the O2 (CO2 is heavier than
air and will rest on the surface of the ferment). Make sure that you
don't use a lead enamel pot or lead glazed crock for fermentation
because the acid in the wine will leach out the lead. Once the
fermentation trap stops bubbling actively (garbag bag collapes),
fermentation will be mostly over. Gas receiving vessel with CO2 (dry
ice: you'll probably need to rack some wine into the vessel first, if it
is *glass, to keep from cracking the glass) or better a cylinder of CO2,
or much better yet, Argon (inert). CO2 will dissolve into the wine
creating a partial vacuum (I destroyed a 5 gal. bottle this way once.).
Argon won't.

At this point, I'd add some SO2 (sulfur dioxide). Try for about 45 parts
per million. The sugar will suck most (if not all) of it up. Free,
unbound sulfur is bacteriostatic, and inhibits enzymes that may cause
browning. If you are going to do much wine making, you should invest in
a 25 ml burette, 25 ml volumetric pipette, 250 erlynmeyer flask, .02N
iodine (I2) solution, and 1% starch
solution.http://www.mbhes.com/so2_in_wine.htm

solution.http://books.google.com/books?id=LHH...A280&lpg=PA280
&dq=SO2,+Ripper+method&source=bl&ots=Zc3JeK7nNR&si g=ZZPHr7BXSkSVi3Xk9rWh1
cRuvmc&hl=en&ei=kRzRSZedNpq6sgPk26mgAw&sa=X&oi=boo k_result&resnum=5&ct=re
sult#PPA281,M1

In any event, it is probably best to keep wine cool (refrigerator).
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being is
now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the moment of
conception until death." *- Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


When I used to make wine, I'd run the primary fermentation in food
grade plastic pails with loose lids and after a few days rack over to
a glass container with an air lock (bubbler). I used wine yeast which
is tolerant of a few ppm sulfur dioxide which keeps out the wild
stuff. Sodium meta bisulfite was used to sterilize containers and as
source of sulfur dioxide in the must. A sweet wine would need more
sulfur dioxide to prevent further fermentation. Wine making stuff was
available at a local shop, "Wine Hobby", no longer in business. I
would look for someplace like that for yeast, chemicals and
containers. Good idea to also buy wine making books.


10 - 15 parts per million (ppm) will give a yeast bomb an advantage if
added the day before an inoculation of yeast. Again, SO2 isn't a
sterilizing agent. It's not bactericidal, it is bacteriostatic. It
doesn't kill, it stuns. If you want to sterilize a clean object, use
chlorine, bromine, or 181F/20 min.. Try to use potassium metabisulfate
because sodium is bad for many people's blood pressure. I found that 1
lb. metabisulfite/1 gallon H2O gives a 5% SO2 solution. Then multiplying
gallons X ppm added X (fudge factor) .063 = mls of 5% sol. to add. Rise
in SO2 levels isn't linear because SO2 binds with sugar and aldehydes.

SO2 sufficient to stop future fementation, would render the wine very
unpleasant (smell of freshly lit matches and blinding head aches).
At the sweetness, the original poster stated, the alcohol and sugar
combination would work against future fermentation. The first spring
would be the make or break for this wine. For one of those strange
occurrences surrounding wine, unprotected wines will recommence their
fermentations in the spring, even if held at a constant temperature.
This is true for primary and secondary fermentations. Potassium Sorbate
could be added to the wine to prevent fermentation but gives an
unacceptable bad taste to the wine. Low temperatures (40F) or sterile
filtration (.45 microns) are the only sure ways of preventing
refementation.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being is
now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the moment of
conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html