Quote:
Originally Posted by kanewesley
Thanks......I did check the oil level....it hasn't a dipstick but has to be topped up to the lip of the filler cap which is towards the bottom of the head.
Can't say 100% what the level was but I have drained the original oil out and replaced with a universal lawnmower oil from B&Q.....Performance of the mower was still the same, stalling / seizing after a few minutes.
How do I check for air flow around the head??????? I thought as it was open to the elements, the ambient air around it would cool it?
Do any of you think the engine is shot?
I wouldn't have thought so as when it is cold, therre is plenty of compression and it runs ok for five minutes.
What if the piston rings were badly worn?.....if the rings were in good condition and the piston expanded, only the ring would have contact with the barrel and would still run.
If the rings say were worn down, and the piston expanded with heat, we now have the full surface area of the piston in contact with the barrel and it may cause so much drag, it stalls the engine.
Is this feasable or am I talking crap !!!!
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I had to pull up a pic of your mower (hope I got the right one) I assume it is a common old briggs motor (fixed a few but usually bomb proof). The cooling is a forced air type, there are fins on the flywheel behind the recoil starter, and this is enclosed in a metal shield that bolts to the engine. It is a long shot however I have known grass to build up in this shield and the cylinder barrel fins and effectively block the forced air cooling. I do admit it is a long shot but it certainly sounds like a heat seize problem. It may pay to remove any drive belts to the roller/cylinder blades, this may eliminate a transmission problem. Apart from these idea I must admit I feel stumped.