Thread: Watering
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Old 17-06-2009, 07:22 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible,rec.gardens
SteveB[_11_] SteveB[_11_] is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Feb 2009
Posts: 101
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"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
I'm a newbie. I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey crap based
conditioner, and some vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level. I ran a PVC
line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
sprayers. I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one. I feel that flooding
the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.


This is not a good idea. The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering. Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time. If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
water thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons. Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds. The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
require more frequent watering for a while. If your soil is drying out
too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
organic content.

I
have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet. The attachment comes in the form of a barb
that goes into a black abs feed pipe. You cut them to length and
crimp the ends shut.
What is the best way to water? Flood? Spray? Emitters? Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
spraying, and hanging pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve


Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
lower humidity so don't raise it. Misting is used to raise the humidity
for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops. Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
are paying attention.

David


I'm just working with what I have. I have lots of pipes and connectors, and
such. Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have a drip
system in place now. I like to do things once and do it right. This first
year is an experiment for two purposes. One is for me to learn, and second
to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that her ideas about just
sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short of what is needed.

For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing proletariat
vote is not counted. I had a hell of a time getting pressure reducers just
to feed the small lines I already had.

"What's the difference?" was the common question.

"Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf ears
that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to rumor,
innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are allowed
to happen to all knowing persons.

"I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house. But I digress.
The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

sigh

Steve