On Jun 18, 9:49*pm, "JimR" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 15, 6:34 pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns.





wrote:
So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a
complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice.

We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have
decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the
lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a
rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds
etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to
be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!!

I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would
use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait
bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying?
I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks?

Many thanks for any responses

--
Noviceatlawns

First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. * You have
declining temps, usually more rain, less competition from weeds.
etc. * The new lawn then has a couple months in the Fall and then
several more in Spring to get established before Summer stress
arrives.

What you need to do to the soil depends on what you have there now.
If it's 7 inches of good sandy loam, there is no need to till it. * On
the other hand, if the top soil is non-existent or only 2" deep, then
it should be fixed before proceeding. *If there is a county
agriculutural agency in your area, often they do soil analysis for a
small fee. *You should also make sure the PH is tested and adjusted if
needed.

Assuming the topsoil is OK, then you can kill the whole thing off with
Roundup (glyphosate) the last week of summer. * After it dies, mow it
short and remove all the debris. * You can re-seed a week after
applying and it usually takes that long or llonger *for it to die
off. * Look on the internet for glyphosate instead of Roundup, as you
need a lot. * Razor is one of the less expensive brands.

After raking up debris, rent a core aerator to aerate the soil. * Then
rent a slice seeder to apply the seeds. * Make sure to choose a high
quality seed that is appropriate for the climate and application.
Keep it constantly moist for a couple weeks, then slowly start to
water less frequently, but deeper.

Slow down ~ - before you get carried away by the above -- the answer to your
question depends on where you live and what kind of turf grass you want to
use. *Some of the above answer may make sense in the U.S. midwest but not
where you're located in the UK. *There's no substitute for local knowledge,
but also I don't think you need to obsess over the lawn in the way suggested
here. *You may want to use sod instead of seed,

What makes sod less obsessive than killing off and renovating? If
anything, it's MORE expensive and certainly more work.


or the best type for your
area may be a sterile hybrid that does not have seed, making sod mandatory.
Most turf grass doesn't send down deep roots so it's overkill to do much
more than level everything and make sure it drains well.

I have to strongly disagree. The guy wants to establish a new lawn.
Grass does much better, looks better, stays green with less water, is
less subject to disease and fungus, etc if it has a thick layer of
good topsoil. He can make sure he has that upfront and avoid years
of frustration, more water, chemicals, work, etc. Or he can start
spending money on seed, fertilizer, sod, labor, etc, only to have sub
par results. It's a lot like painting. If you want it to be done
right, it's all about the prep work. In the extreme case, suppose he
has just gravel? Would you recommend just proceeding with seed or
sod on that?


*Trying to change
the basic pH of a location is an exercise in futility because of all the
forces that will be trying to keep it at a certain point. *Almost all of
your lawn's food comes from above ground, not below -- you can grow
perfectly good sod on a slab of concrete if you provide it with regular
water and fertilizer.

That's contrary to the advice of every turf grass expert who's advice
I've seen. There is a range of PH that is best suited to turf. The
desired range varies depending on the species. But if it's not in
the range, it should be adjusted. And in most cases, if it's out,
it's on the acidic side, with limestone being the easy and cheap
fix. It's only futile in the sense that it will only last a couple
years and then you need to add more. But that's true with
fertilizer and most everything else too.



Lawns are a good example of the 90 / 10 rule. *You can get a 90% lawn with
10% effort. *Getting that last 10% takes an ever increasing amount of money
and effort and isn't worth it. *Better to spend the time going fishing. --

There's truth to that. But we can't see his existing lawn. If
it's a real mess, then he's plan to renovate makes good sense and
isn't inconsistent with the above.