On 9 Dec, 20:20, Brian Mitchell wrote:
Hi,

I have a line of leylandii very close to the house (like, seven feet)
which I need to fell and then reduce. I presume this is a supposed hedge
that got out of control and the average size is now 20+ feet high and
10" diameter (chest height).

I'm thinking of getting an electric chainsaw for this, since the job is
close to the house and I think an electric one might be more manageable
up a ladder than a petrol-driven one, but I would welcome any
experienced advice on chainsaws in general, electric ones in particular,
and brands. I'd also quite like to know how *small* a diameter of branch
it's feasible to cut with one.

Thanks,

brian mitchell

Using any kind of chainsaw from a ladder is an absolute no no. You
slip = 2 badly broken legs + chainsaw cuts - it happens.
The guys who use chainsaws up trees are well trained and the saws are
made for the purpose. The normal (good) advice for on ground chainsaw
use is to keep the saw no higher than chest height.

For felling cuts - decide on the direction of fall, make a small
horizontal cut ACROSS your line of fall to around 25% of the diameter
of the tree (no more than 30%)

Now cut down into that to remove a wedge so the mouth of the cut is
facing the direction of fall. If gravity is not going to aid your
felling with ABSOLUTE certainty then get a rope up there as high as
you can and helper/s to help you pull it over - *this tree is much
higher than your estimate* so get a rope way too long or divert the
pull by a pulley fixed to a suitable anchor.

Now make your felling cut from the back - horizontally and just a
little higher than the floor of the mouth of the directional cut -
stop and look at what you're doing before you get too far.
You can see that as the remaining wood gets less you will be left with
something that looks a bit like a hinge which will hold the tree to
your chosen line until it breaks.
Now you need to use your judgement - get your helpers to put some
tension on the rope but not enough to pull the tree over just yet.
Continue the cut until you judge that your helpers will be able to
pull the tree over (don't cut right through the hinge - you lose all
control that way) - stop the saw and go to help your assistants.
If you've judged right the tree will topple under the control of the
hinge and when that breaks the tree will be well on the way in the
right direction and your team should be heading away from the scene.
After the fell look at the cut stump - if you cut correctly and the
tree fell right you will see a line of broken wood across the line of
the felling cut - that was the 'hinge' that ensured the direction of
fall.

If you are at all unsure - get a good tree surgeon - they aren't that
expensive considering the high degree of skill and courage required.
And they'll clear the site afterwards.

Rod