In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:
In article
,
" wrote:
On Mar 10, 2:08*pm, Ian Gay wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.
I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!
The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.
Ian
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I don't have a practical way to protect the plants from the rain
(greenhouse or very large tarp I guess),
it seems blight was a problem once every 5 years, now it's every year.
I use to have 8 foot plants, now,
barely 4 in a good year
I also believe it is an airborne problem as I relocated the garden
with no benefits.
Still, I have a friend across town who has no problems and doesn't do
anything, his bottom
leaves are totally green (no disease whatsoever) up until the first
day of frost! Ah, I remember those days....
Worth a look /try.
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx
But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html
Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html
Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html
Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *
-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html
Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361
What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585
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merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
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