In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:



Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585

Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...tural%20Myths_
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
now to ozone).
http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b
logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den

In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.

Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of sorts but I
thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution
as you cut. Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. I just keep
em sharp and oil when they may need it.
Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I
believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the
same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest
and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come
back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean.
The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are
essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens.

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending