Two thoughts. First, Leigh is right. Four 65 watt lamps is a lot of light
for a non-injected tank. That coupled with the ph adjustment could spell
trouble-- and here is why.
Normally, ph adjustment products accomplish the ph reset by using a
phosphate based ph buffer. This phosphate together with your high light
levels could well set up an environment that is ideal for brush algae-- very
ugly stuff that is hard to get rid of. These products do not last in the
water anyhow. I would not use them. Why not reset your ph the way that has
proven itself-- with CO2 injection?
Having said these things, I will be very interested to see if all of these
ramblings of mine turn out to be correct. I can only tell you what I have
seen happen in my tanks-- I used a ph adjuster a long time back, before I
was really into heavily planted tanks, for breading (or attempting to
breed) harlequin rasboras. I never got the fish to spawn, but I did get all
kinds of weird and smelly algae to grow. Please take a look at the web
site I recommended.
The light fixture you purchased will be perfect for you in the long run
after you get CO2 going.
On a side note, I did some further research to discover that in addition to
the low nitrate scenario I mentioned in a previous post, blue-green algae
can form in low oxygen conditions which frequently occur when circulation is
poor. You mention you do not have much water movement. Your low light
levels, low circulation environment may have caused low oxygen conditions.
Improve the circulation, get your new lights going (I recommend 130 watts
for now until you get CO2 going) and dose your tank with 200 mg of
erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water. This should clear the algae
on your swords.
-Bruce Geist
"SlimFlem" wrote in message
om...
Let me give a little more detail:
The LFS (The Fish Store & More in Atlanta) said with this new light, I
should start by having only 8 hours of light per day and gradually
increasing it to no more than 12. This will allow the plants time to
adjust to the more intense lighting. Also, my tank is not shining
like the sun, like some of you might be thinking.
Again, the LFS said CO2 injection is not *really* required and all it
is said to be just because of high lighting levels. Several of the
guys there said they have never used CO2 with high light levels and
have always had great results. In addition to using carbon or
PuriGen. Thoughts?
Concerning the PH, again the LFS said the Angels and Loaches would
enjoy the 6.5 more than 7.5. The statement about the plants is that
the 6.5 PH will allow the plants to synthisize elements/minerals/etc.
better than at 7.5. How true this is, I'm not really sure. The way I
am doing this is by using SeaChem's Neutral Regulator with the Discus
Buffer. These do contain phospate buffers. Is this really a bad
thing? The way I was told to use this product is to follow the ratio
on the containers by mixing the product in a jug of my tank water and
pouring it back in. This will be done once per week until the PH is
at 6.5. Also, after water changes. Does this not sound correct?
Why? Would it really hurt to do this?
And, my tank is not couldy, the water is crystal clear. It sounds
like you guys are thinking I am going to have an algea breakout from
these new lights. The LFS guys did say initally there might be a
slight increase in water algea, but it would go away after a few days
since the plants will be robbing it of nutrients.
Thoughts please.
THanks.
tose (LeighMo) wrote in message
...
Well, two 65's plus the strip light, maybe. I found my 75 gallon was
too
dim with 160 watts over it (4 x 40 watt) even before I added CO2.
My 75 gallon tank was fine with 2x65W. Very low plants, like glosso and
lilaeopsis, have done better since I doubled the lighting. But he's
trying to
grow Sag and Val. Those are moderate-light plants, and will thrive with
only
130w.
Leigh
http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/