In article ,
Nad R wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote:
"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Baz wrote:

"DogDiesel" wrote in
:

Do any of you go as far as having different soil mixes for different
plants in the garden. ?

Diesel.




Yes,
For example people usually add manure/compost when planting potatoes, add
lime for bressicas etc.
Or have I got the question wrong? I often do.

Baz
http://fieldcrop.msu.edu/documents/E2893.pdf

Adding manure directly before planting can
increase risk of disease, such as common scab
(Streptomyces scabie) in potato. Consider carefully
manure effects and disease potential before
incorporating manure in the spring. Composted
manure will generally be much safer and
reduce disease risk.
--
- Billy


Thanks Billy. What timing. I was just thinking of adding manure from
Tractor supply. I was going to dump it in the snow. For Spring. If you
put a lot of it in the composter bin. Will it make composting stop. Will it
Burn it or something.

Diesel.

Manure from the stores are typically sterilized. If so, it can be used
immediately in the garden. Most bags of compost/manure sold in stores are
mostly sterilized animal manure. Plant compost is the GOLD that most
gardeners want and is the best and not typically sold in stores, got to
make your own. Look on the bag for NPK amount it is usually around .5 for
each of the NPK values.

However, fresh animal manures need time in the sun to dry before using in
the compost piles or directly in the garden. Not a good thing to put down
fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180 days before harvest. I
would not put down fresh animal manure on wet ground or snow. Putting fresh
animal manure on wet areas may cause liquifying of the manure and cause
contamination of local well and water systems.

But if your buying your compost at a store it is probably sterilized and
safe to use as you wish.

To be on the safe side follow Dan's (Nad's) advice, which I'm sure was
meant to be "put down fresh animal manure 90 days before planting, 180
days before harvest." Cornell agrees as well
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html
I was sure that I had a reference to using fresh fertilizer with plants
(Fran and David apparently do), but I can't seem to find it. IIRC the
trick was not to splash water, which would transport the pathogens, onto
the edible parts of the plant in question. Such is my memory, but I
would follow the above advice until such time as there is a more
definitive answer.

Fran (FarmI) and I had a chin wag about this once and she came up with
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=...lpg=PA123&dq=N
PK+%22fresh+manure%22&source=web&ots=40vqJHGGn4&si g=i3jd5aL_vv2kQE0cegX6u
vfsoe8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=resul t

It says of fresh vs rotted/aged manure that:
i) in the composting process, manure can lose up to half it's moisture
content and thus concentrate nutrients
ii) nitrogen in composted manure is fixed whereas in fresh, it's soluble
iii) solubility of P and K is greater in composted manure
and on P.125 it says that 'when manure is added directly to the soil, it
generally releases highly soluble nitrates that behave similarly to
chemical fertilisers, as well as ammonia, which can burn plant roots and
interfere with seed germination.'

Just so's you know, it is done both ways, but prudence must be used.

Adding manure to a garden in the winter where there is a good chance of
run-off, can lead to pollution of ground water, navigable waters, and
wells.
--
- Billy
“When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist.”
-Archbishop Helder Camara
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