Here's what I'd do this fall:
-- rough pH test; also a test on similar soil that hasn't been covered
compare the results. There's a fair chance your newly uncovered soil is
pretty acid from the stagnant water and anaerobic bacteria.
-- shake test for soil texture --- dig several small pits and combine the soil
from the test pits for the shake test. This also gets you a peek at the
soil a bit deeper down. I'd go down at least 12" with those pits.
-- a winter cover crop. I'm not conversant with the probable winter weather
in your area, but talk to local organic gardeners who are -- it'll probably be
something like oats or buckwheat. Getting some roots moving down into the soil
will help break up compaction, and the soil organic matter will be nice to have when you start improving the soil for whatever conditions you're aiming for nextspring.

That cover crop will also help prevent soil erosion this winter. If that's
not possible, then I'd put down a good layer of straw (not hay, which is
typically loaded with seeds).

Repeat the pH test next spring and correct as needed with lime or gypsum.
The shake test will give you an idea of how much organic matter you'll need
for whatever it is you're trying to grow.
http://ecolocalizer.com/2011/05/27/w...he-shake-test/

If you don't know the area well and you're in mountainous terrain, consider
adding a couple of recording thermometers, one for soil, one for air temps.
Microclimates are a major factor in gardening in hilly or mountainous areas,
even if you're just in the foothills.


Kay