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Old 26-11-2012, 02:11 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
Baz[_3_] Baz[_3_] is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,775
Default How to break a spade

"shazzbat" wrote in
:


Two very different experiences. Possibly differences with engine
mounts and
gearbox? Ford used to use a differential(rear drive) and Triumph used
front
wheel drive on later models. A bit like Morris, Austin and later,
British Leyland did back then, engine and gearbox as one unit and all
of them now do that.This doesn't explain why a rear drive SS would be
working and not cracking. But I would bet that all the research would
have been front wheel
drive later on.


I did a lot of repairs on 70s cars which had recently had new
exhausts, and then started making jangling noises. They were almost
always caused by exhaust places undoing the clamps holding the
exhaust, and pushing the new one into the clamps without resetting the
clamp at the other end where it joined the gearbox, body, or whatever
it was mounted to. The resulting strain caused the clamps to break,
but I hardly ever saw one where the exhaust itself was failed. The
subsequent change to exhausts hanging on rubber mounts stopped the
problem.

Steve



True enough, shazzbat.
Do you mean this bit? --- Joining manifold to the downpipe?
Sorry about the diagram.
The old jointing compound should always be removed from the manifold, but
seldom done by so called exhaust centres. The old crusty remains would
allow the exhaust to blow at that point and subsequent joins will start to
disintegrate because of constant pulling the joints apart and vibration at
manifold to downpipe.
That will cause rubber engine mounts to lose their elasticity and the
driver would notice that the gear stick is all over the place. Difficulty
selecting gears. When revs are applied the stick moves upwards.
In that case the torque stay is the first and easiest to renew.
This is from my own experience, trial and error. Not an expert opinion,

Baz