On 28/11/2012 17:59, rbel wrote:
On Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:12:03 +0000, wrote:


Put bubble wrap round the pot but NOT round the plant. It can makes
things 'sweat' and then can stick to leaves or stems. Use
horticultural fleece draped over canes round and over the plant. Few
plants like to be wet at their roots all through a cold winter night,
so minimum watering and sharp drainage (lift the pot onto some bricks)
is a general rule of thumb.


Interesting. We used horticultural fleece covers last year for the
first time to protect some Alstroemeria and standard bays and this
year we have also put them over a couple of standard Solanum
rantonettii. This is probably a bit OTT as we rarely get any
significant frosts but I have not thought of raising the pots, a mix
of terracotta and fibreglass. We tend to incorporate good drainage
when planting containers, horticultural grit mixed with the JI and a
layer of crocks or large stones at the bottom. Is it still a sensible
precaution to raise the pots?


I also improve drainage as I plant, but I still prefer to keep my pots
raised off paving and concrete areas. In persistent or heavy rain,
water collects on our patio, so I consider drainage essential. RG is in
the process of levelling and paving our patio (after *30* years of my
moaning!), to allow better run-off, but I may still allow for free
drainage during winter rains.


Also we have a five year old acer in a 50 cms cube terracotta planter
which, in previous years, we have,covered with bubble wrap (just the
planter) as it is in a relatively exposed location. Do we need to
carry on mollycoddling it or is it likely to be sufficiently
acclimatised by now to survive one of our average winters without
being wrapped up?
--
rbel

If your Acer is in a terracotta pot, you may still have to mollycoddle
the pot if you don't want to lose it. The Acer may very well be a
little hardier now, but I would still worry about this year's growth
since we didn't have much sun to ripen the wood. If the tree is not
hugely precious and/or you don't mind trimming off the dead twiggy ends
(I have to do this in most springs, anyway), you may get away without
extra protection. However, the fact that Acers are lower-storey
woodland trees which need some shelter, I am slightly concerned that
your tree is in a "relatively exposed" location.

Another thought is that your tree may be grafted. It ought to be a
solid graft by now, but I have known frosts and high winds to damage the
union between crown and rootstock. You may wish to take this into
consideration if the site is exposed. It took five years to get the
tree to its present condition. It will only to five minutes to save or
wreck its appearance. Somehow I think you will use that five mins
wisely. Good luck.

--
Spider
from high ground in SE London
gardening on clay