On 4/6/13 7:09 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
I just spent (too much) on 4 boxes of E.B.Stone Organics fertilizer
for different uses. Examining the formulae on each box, I wondered if
there is really enough difference to justify separate purchases.

Your experience, as well as general input and references appreciated.

Any general input and references appreciated

1. Rose & Flower Food: a. Total Nitrogen 5:00%
b. Available Phosphate 6.00%
c. Soluble Potash 3.00%
d. Calcium 4.00%
e. Sulfur 1.00%

(Plus, on each box, various organic, bacteria, mycorrhizea, etc.)

I feed my roses separately from other plants. As my roses start to leaf
out, I give them ammonium, iron, zinc, and magnesium sulfates, about a
handful of the first, decreasing with each, until only a tablespoon of
the last. Starting then, I feed them monthly, alternating between
Bayer's 2-in-1 rose and flower food (which contains a systemic
insecticide) and just ammonium sulfate. The last feeding is no later
than 15 October.

About once in 10 years, I take a piece of steel rebar and poke 3-4 holes
in the soil around each rose plant, about 1.5-2 feet from the base and 2
feet deep. I fill these holes with superphosphate (see below about OSH
lawn food and phosphorus). This promotes flowering.


2. Citrus & Fruit Tree Food: a. 7.00%
b. 3.00%
c. 3.00%
d. 2.00%
e. 1.00%

I start feeding my dwarf citrus around 15 March, starting with a
commercial citrus and avocado food plus two pinches of zinc sulfate.
Every three weeks, I then alternate between ammonium, iron, and zinc
sulfates and the commercial food with added zinc. When I feed my
citrus, I also feed my gardenia the same with slightly more zinc. The
last feeding is no later than 1 October.

Citrus requires an acidic fertilizer. I avoid the commercial foods that
indicate "fruit tree", sticking only to those specifically for citrus
and avocados.

Note that three of my dwarf citrus are in very large pots with a
fast-draining mix. The fourth citrus is in a raised bed, again with a
fast-draining mix. Thus, nutrients tend to leach away


3. Tomato & Vegetable Food: a. 4.00%
b. 5.oo%
c. 3.00%
d. 3.00%
e. 1.00%

My only vegetables are perennial: artichoke and asparagus. They get the
same once-a-year feeding that I apply generally to my garden.


4. Azalea, Camelia & Gardenia Food: a. 5.00%
b. 5.00%
c. 3.00%
d. 3.00%
e. 1.00%

Ugh! Azaleas and camellias prefer a very light feeding with a
slow-release fertilizer. Gardenias, however, prefer much more
nutrients, enough that can harm azaleas and camellias. Gardenias will
drop their flower buds if they do not get enough zinc, but azaleas and
camellias don't need added zinc. See above regarding citrus for how I
feed my gardenia, which is in bloom right now.

I feed my azaleas and camellias once a year, right after all blooming is
done, with a commercial azalea and camellia food, avoiding anything that
also mentions gardenias. I also give them an occasional dose of gypsum,
but this is to improve the soil and not to feed them.


For the rest of my garden, I use the house-brand lawn food from Orchard
Supply and Hardware (OSH). I do this once a year, sometime in the first
half of March. Overfeeding promotes leaf growth over flowering; it also
promotes so much growth that more water is required. (Water is my most
expensive utility.)

The OSH lawn food has NO phosphorus. Phosphorus is wasted if it is not
dug into the soil, down to the roots; it does not readily dissolve and
must be place where roots will find it. Also, phosphorus in runoff
water is a significant pollutant.

For a new flowering plant, however, I place a small handful of
superphosphate at the bottom of the planting hole. For bulbs, I use
bone meal. Both contain phosphorus, which promotes flowering.


When I prune my shrubs in the spring (other than dwarf citrus, azaleas,
roses, or camellias), I give them an additional feeding to speed their
recovery. Depending on the plant, I use more OSH lawn food or ammonium
sulfate.


Every fall, I dose the soil around my liquidambar tree and Australian
tea tree with sulfur. Both of these tend to get chlorotic and need more
acid. Soil bacteria very slowly convert the sulfur into sulfuric acid.

Finally, every other year, I apply a large amount of gypsum to my entire
garden in November, to take advantage of whatever rainfall we might get.
My soil is heavy clay. The gypsum reacts with the clay to make it
granular and improve drainage. I never place gypsum on my hill in back
because this reaction can destabilize the slope. Last November, I used
about 200 pounds of Bumper Crop gypsum, about 90% calcium sulfate. When
I bought Home Depot's gypsum, it was only 70% calcium sulfate and
contained many worthless pebbles.


--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary