On Wed, 8 May 2013 13:08:07 +0100, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:

Thanks to both of you gentlemen for the advice.
I went over it with a fork that did not have solid spikes. This is the only
fork I have. I gave it a good wiggling around.

Odd fork - but as long as it opened big- and deep-enough holes which
you then filled with some sharp sand, you'll have got some drainage
in. If you don't brush in sand, the earth around the holes will pack
back in as you walk over the grass and your spiking effort will be
wasted!

The wife was dispatched and came back with Evergreen Complete granules -
ahem. I used it sparingly.

Just like a DIY project, you need to follow the instructions. Not sure
what you mean by "used sparingly" but if you used granules above the
instructed rate, you'll scorch the grass (it'll turn black but will
recover in time) and waste a lot of granules; below the instructed
rate and the concentration of the stuff in the granules won't be
enough to do the job properly - the difference between paint runs on
your doors and spreading the paint too thin.

The advantage of the liquid form is merely that it's almost impossible
to overdose and you're less likely to under dose by leaving gaps
between the areas you apply it to.

It would seem that when the moss turns black I rake it up?

If you've used enough of the stuff to do the job and it turns black
then yes. You really need a spring tine rake or scarifying rake for
this job.

If I do the same thing every year, will this keep the moss at bay?

If you're lucky, yes. Spiking and sanding the lawn probably every
other year if you do it properly.

Incidentally, when using sand in the garden, it's best to get
horticultural grade and not builders' sand - the pH is different.

HTH

--
Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling from the East end of Swansea Bay where it's May
and I'm worried about minus zero temperaturess forecast