OP he in short, having slept on it, I realised it's ludicrous to
think I shouldn't sharpen the whole length of the (cutting) edges, so I
WILL do the outer 2" of each blade.

As I speculated yesterday, they must currently be so blunt because of
the hammering they've had for nearly three years, with no maintenance.
(They really are blunt: rounded like they've been bevelled.)


Yes, folks, before posting to the group I DID google "sharpening ride-on
mower blades"! It's amazing how many of the dozens found are just crap!
REALLY amateur (as opposed to competent), or actually adverts not
instruction, etc etc. But I'm not complaining! This is the internet
after all, not a subscription service!


As for "bows" etc in the profile of a blade - I meant bow as in Robin
Hood's bow, not as in ribbons'n'bows :-) The article which explains
the difference between blades is he

http://www.mtdparts.com/equipment/mt.../tricks-and-ti
ps/hi-lift-mulching-blade-tip

(Note: I've seen the same article word for word in other places: I dunno
who should be getting the credit. Bizarrely, no diagrams in it!)


And No, I never found a spares site which made it clear enough what
parts of the blade are sharp (not even Mountfield's). However this is
probably because (dunderhead, John!) it's so bloody obvious that you
sharpen the whole thing (i.e. the whole cutting edge not the whole damn'
blade structure) :-D

So yet again in URG: thanks for your input folks!

John