Aquaphobic potting mix in training pots
Greetings all,
The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides of the pot. When the water _does_ seem to be absorbed, it only penertrates about 5mm down, leaving the rest dry. Additionally, a dry 'crust' of about 5-10mm tends to form on some of the newly repotted plants. I've tried soaking the pots in buckets of water for 30mins or so, which _seems_ to help. I was wondering if perhaps this is a water quality issue (high calcium content?) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Martin Second month of spring here in South Eastern Australia. Average temps - 20 deg C - 68 deg F Pots in full sun. |
Martin
This happens when the organic content of the soil is allowed to get extremely dry. Fir bark is notorious for this hydrophobic property. Like you, I have tried any number of things to get it wet, but the best thing to do is to take the plant out of the pot (if you have already potted something in it) and tumble the soil and water together so that every particle gets a 'coat' of water. I do this in a cement mixer that I use as a soil mixer. It is fast and efficient for this, but if you don't have one, you can tumble it in a garbage can. Inspect it to make sure the particles are coated with water, then seal it up to allow the water to penetrate each particle. This may take several hours to a day or two. After that, it should take up water normally. When storing soil, make sure that it is slightly damp, not wet, and seal it to keep it from drying out. Brent EvergreenGardenworks.com see our blog at http://BonsaiNurseryman.typepad.com Martin wrote: Greetings all, The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides of the pot. When the water _does_ seem to be absorbed, it only penertrates about 5mm down, leaving the rest dry. Additionally, a dry 'crust' of about 5-10mm tends to form on some of the newly repotted plants. I've tried soaking the pots in buckets of water for 30mins or so, which _seems_ to help. I was wondering if perhaps this is a water quality issue (high calcium content?) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
In article , "Martin" wrote:
Greetings all, The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides of the pot. When the water _does_ seem to be absorbed, it only penertrates about 5mm down, leaving the rest dry. Additionally, a dry 'crust' of about 5-10mm tends to form on some of the newly repotted plants. I've tried soaking the pots in buckets of water for 30mins or so, which _seems_ to help. I've seen that with my non-bonsai houseplants. It's a symptom of under-watering. When potting mix gets too dry, it tends to repel water. It also happens to a lesser extent with potting mix fresh from the bag. My solution is to use a spray bottle to moisten the whole surface just a little. Wait half a minute for the spray droplets to be absorbed, and then water normally. After half an hour, check the soil and water again if it needs it. |
Thanks guys for your replies, I've opted for the 'soak and wait 2 hrs
method' courtesy of an old tub in the backyard, seems to have done the trick. I will also be revising my watering regime regarding my training pots, I guess i was too worried about root rot and didnt water them frequently enough... 'dammed if u do, dammed if u dont' - bart simpson Martin "Wayne C. Morris" wrote in message ... In article , "Martin" wrote: Greetings all, The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides of the pot. When the water _does_ seem to be absorbed, it only penertrates about 5mm down, leaving the rest dry. Additionally, a dry 'crust' of about 5-10mm tends to form on some of the newly repotted plants. I've tried soaking the pots in buckets of water for 30mins or so, which _seems_ to help. I've seen that with my non-bonsai houseplants. It's a symptom of under-watering. When potting mix gets too dry, it tends to repel water. It also happens to a lesser extent with potting mix fresh from the bag. My solution is to use a spray bottle to moisten the whole surface just a little. Wait half a minute for the spray droplets to be absorbed, and then water normally. After half an hour, check the soil and water again if it needs it. |
Martin,
Of course your main problem is that you are using "standard commercial potting mix". You are right to worry about root rot when using a mix such as the one you are using, it is much too fine and will retain too much water, and as you noticed, if you let it dry out a bit, it then repels water. You should change over to a free draining mix at the earliest opportunity. You can use your coarse river sand along with lava rock or turface or the like, and if you want some organic matter in the mix, use screened bark mulch. All the soil particles should be larger than 1/8" to provide good drainage, and a mix such as that will not repel water when dry. Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin" Thanks guys for your replies, I've opted for the 'soak and wait 2 hrs method' courtesy of an old tub in the backyard, seems to have done the trick. I will also be revising my watering regime regarding my training pots, I guess i was too worried about root rot and didnt water them frequently enough... The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Have you try using a liitle dish washing detergent to change the surface
tension of the water? Jason "Martin" wrote in message ... Greetings all, The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides of the pot. When the water _does_ seem to be absorbed, it only penertrates about 5mm down, leaving the rest dry. Additionally, a dry 'crust' of about 5-10mm tends to form on some of the newly repotted plants. I've tried soaking the pots in buckets of water for 30mins or so, which _seems_ to help. I was wondering if perhaps this is a water quality issue (high calcium content?) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Martin Second month of spring here in South Eastern Australia. Average temps - 20 deg C - 68 deg F Pots in full sun. |
Soil Mixes for --Training-- Pots
"roger roger!"
Thanks for the info. I've built my screen, screened 60 litres of bark and am just now getting psyched up to start repotting my 25 training pots I'm assuming I should make an even coarser mix for my conifers? Perhaps a new thread is in order here......"Soil Mixes for Training Pots" Martin "Roger Snipes" wrote in message news:00a001c5cae7$4ed47610$0200a8c0@dell... Martin, Of course your main problem is that you are using "standard commercial potting mix". You are right to worry about root rot when using a mix such as the one you are using, it is much too fine and will retain too much water, and as you noticed, if you let it dry out a bit, it then repels water. You should change over to a free draining mix at the earliest opportunity. You can use your coarse river sand along with lava rock or turface or the like, and if you want some organic matter in the mix, use screened bark mulch. All the soil particles should be larger than 1/8" to provide good drainage, and a mix such as that will not repel water when dry. Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin" Thanks guys for your replies, I've opted for the 'soak and wait 2 hrs method' courtesy of an old tub in the backyard, seems to have done the trick. I will also be revising my watering regime regarding my training pots, I guess i was too worried about root rot and didnt water them frequently enough... The soil in my training pots seem to repel water instead of absorb it. I'm using commercial grade 'standard' potting mix with added coarse river sand (about 10-15%). Each time I water, the water either wells around the top without being absorbed by the soil, or it just seems to run down the insides ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Soil Mixes for --Training-- Pots
Martin,
A coarser mix for conifers, especially pines, isn't a bad idea. I and others in my area usually use a somewhat coarser mix for our pines, although it isn't 100% necessary. For pines I don't use much, if any, bark in the mix - 25% or less, with the rest just being lava rock or other grit. Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin" I've built my screen, screened 60 litres of bark and am just now getting psyched up to start repotting my 25 training pots I'm assuming I should make an even coarser mix for my conifers? ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by John Romano++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
It is fast and able for this, but if you don't have one, you can tumble it in a debris can. Inspect it to accomplish sure the particles are coated with water, again allowance it up to acquiesce the water to access anniversary particle. This may yield several hours to a day or two. After that, it should yield up baptize normally.
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