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[IBC] Buttonwood
If this tree lives, it will be a miracle. It came with the driftwood partly
underground at a cockeyed angle & the live part sticking up. I carved the aboveground part in February. It started to develop dots on the leaves after all this rain, so I sprayed it with Orthenex (which contains Triforine). The other day I took it out of the pot & put the roots in a baggie. I heeded Mary Madison's advice to watch for the point of root attachment, but I probably lost quite a few roots. I wire-brushed the driftwood & treated what I thought would be the underground part with wood hardener. Sanding it will take too long; that will have to come later. Yesterday I wrestled the thing into an oblong pot with Hollow Creek tropical mix. With my watching the point of attachment & dealing with various projections, it finally went in at an even more cockeyed angle, with the live part sticking out in back at another cockeyed angle. Much of the wood hardener treated part is above ground, which will make the color uneven when I try to apply lime sulfur. I think what it really needs is a rather deep round or square literati pot, & being potted at a more upright angle, because there is no comprehensible front. Right now I have it in a very shady location outside. I will let it recover. If it should survive, can I repot it again this year in a more suitable pot? Since the present root system is rather small, what size pot should I look for? The tree itself is a little over a foot tall. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Iris,
I've had brown spots on buttonwood once outside...too cool - wet? I haven't even taken my buttonwood outside yet, it's still too cool. I've found that buttonwood roots regenerate best after a re-pot if they are kept consistantly warm day and night with good light. This is why I re-pot in early spring inside. Pot? Tough to tell without a picture. I'm starting to order my pots from Japan for next year, so I'm going through the tokoname catalogue right now. Regards, Alan Blue Mountain Bonsai Ontario, Canada Zone 6 |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Iris,
I always let the root system dry out on buttonwood before I haul it out of the pot to do a re-pot. There is less chance of damaging any roots. If there are few roots,(at least where we are), it may take a year for new roots to completely fill the pot under good growing conditions. -A free draining mix with some organic, warm and humid, good light, fertilize year round(the only time my buttonwood doesn't get fed is in the fall when temperatures are lower before I bring it in.) If you don't feed it well in winter the plant will slow down, the leaves will loose their luster. And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system that has been damaged. Now I have to trim some trees. Best regards, Alan Blue Mountain Bonsai Ontario, Canada Zone 6 |
[IBC] Buttonwood
And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged. Alan (Dunbrook) ------------------------- This may be the first time I have seen this statement relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never really let it sink in before. I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped for. I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too? Lynn, LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged. Alan (Dunbrook) ------------------------- This may be the first time I have seen this statement relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never really let it sink in before. I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped for. I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too? I don't think there is a generalization to make here. Some trees may be able to put out leaves up top with few roots. Others will suffer if you don't keep the top in proportion. There's at least an equal likelihood that "unrestrained" top growth will overtax the ability of a damaged root system to deliver the water and nutrients the top needs to survive. You would have a tree that wilts easily -- at least. Buttonwood that can grow in an at least slightly salty environment may have a different transpiration rate than other trees. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Growing desperate: Pleeeaaassseee . . . DO NOT USE AN APOSTROPHE TO MAKE A PLURAL!!!!!!!!!!!! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Lynn,
Unrestrained top growth should do the trick for all trees that I have worked with. Can't think of one that did not work that way. Jerry Meislik Whitefish Montana USA Zone 4-5 http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/ And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system that has been damaged. Alan (Dunbrook) ------------------------- This may be the first time I have seen this statement relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never really let it sink in before. I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped for. I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too? Lynn, LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA ************************************************** **************************** ** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** **************************** ** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis" Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Growing desperate: Pleeeaaassseee . . . DO NOT USE AN APOSTROPHE TO MAKE A PLURAL!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh Boyz, knock off those apostophez on the pluralz or Jimz day will be ruined!!! Dale ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Lynn,
While trimming trees, root pruning, collecting and repotting here in NE Ohio ( At least) I've ALWAYS worked under the idea that "It takes roots to grow foliage, and it takes foliage to grow roots", although this does NOT always seem to be the norm in tropics as with buttonwood in particular. I think very often keys-collected buttonwood are more rootless "stumps" than not when collected. ( ones I've thrown out sure were!) But, I would rather see people actually familiar with growing a lot of them and collecting a lot of them answer questions about specific trees like these than folks just stabbing in the dark. Alan, I'd sift through advice carefully here and note where it came from. I gave up on them a few years ago and consider buttonwoods like trying to overwinter a tomatoe plant here in Ohio although I have friends who have been successful. ( They are a lost cause without special lighting/heating which I'm not willing to invest for one plant) , but because I've had SEVERAL over the years I'd certainly not give advice on growing them! Dale Cochoy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Meislik" Subject: [IBC] Buttonwood Lynn, Unrestrained top growth should do the trick for all trees that I have worked with. Can't think of one that did not work that way. Jerry Meislik Whitefish Montana USA Zone 4-5 http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/ And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system that has been damaged. Alan (Dunbrook) ------------------------- This may be the first time I have seen this statement relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never really let it sink in before. I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped for. I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too? Lynn, LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Iris,
I agree completely with Carl, Place it in a humidity tent and keep the root zone as warm as possible. Buttonwoods (Conocarpus erectus) will wilt (the leaves and new shoots) very quickly if the uptake of the root system is insufficient. If wilting has not occured and continued you should be in good shape. Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only one to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood. Dale is correct aht most collected Buttonwoods are little more than rootless stumps when collected. They are collected in our South Florida summer for the high humidity and heat of the season. Some will place them under misters and/or shade cloth to reduce transpiration. The clear plastic bag will serve this purpose. Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days, since it is already stressed. Choose a pot that will not dry out too quickly in your climate. If you wait longer, then do not repot until next summer - let it rest and gather strength (new roots and foliage. Good luck! Luis Fontanills Miami, Florida USA In a message dated 6/14/2003 10:53:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, writes: If this tree lives, it will be a miracle. It came with the driftwood partly underground at a cockeyed angle & the live part sticking up. I carved the aboveground part in February. It started to develop dots on the leaves after all this rain, so I sprayed it with Orthenex (which contains Triforine). The other day I took it out of the pot & put the roots in a baggie. I heeded Mary Madison's advice to watch for the point of root attachment, but I probably lost quite a few roots. I wire-brushed the driftwood & treated what I thought would be the underground part with wood hardener. Sanding it will take too long; that will have to come later. Yesterday I wrestled the thing into an oblong pot with Hollow Creek tropical mix. With my watching the point of attachment & dealing with various projections, it finally went in at an even more cockeyed angle, with the live part sticking out in back at another cockeyed angle. Much of the wood hardener treated part is above ground, which will make the color uneven when I try to apply lime sulfur. I think what it really needs is a rather deep round or square literati pot, & being potted at a more upright angle, because there is no comprehensible front. Right now I have it in a very shady location outside. I will let it recover. If it should survive, can I repot it again this year in a more suitable pot? Since the present root system is rather small, what size pot should I look for? The tree itself is a little over a foot tall. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Well, any advice I give for growing buttonwood is for what has worked
for me in the north(Ontario, Canada). This is the 18th year that I have this tree(from my first year in bonsai). Best regards, Alan |
[IBC] Buttonwood
In a message dated 6/15/03 10:50:24 AM, ManFont writes:
Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only one to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood. That's what Mary Madison warned me, so I watched for it & made sure I had it in the soil when I repotted. Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days,*since it is already stressed. I don't have a single literati pot at all. I will leave it cockeyed until next summer. Meanwhile I will be on the lookout for a suitable pot. We are going to a workshop at Pauline Muth's in August, & Bill will undoubtedly have pot vendors at his symposium. I can also check out local potters. Since this will be a round pot, it can be thrown on a wheel, but I have to remind them that it needs feet. How deep would you suggest? I looked at the plant carefully today, & it is partly but not totally wilted. Should I prune it? I moved it up one shelf, where it will get a little morning sun & a lot of afternoon shade. I also put a 2-gallon baggie over it. As I understand buttonwoods, it will not get cooked from the morning sun shining through the plastic, but I will watch it. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Alan:
I believe Iris lives in New York State, and I in Southern New Jersey. I am always willing to hear how someone, not from Florida is keeping their prized Buttonwood alive. If nothing more than comparing notes..... I've had mine for five years, and it has tested me, several times, but it is a tough old bird, and I respect it for it's tenacity to stay alive in a differnt environment from which it originated. Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7 http://bmee.net/rosner http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48 Alan Dunbrook wrote: Well, any advice I give for growing buttonwood is for what has worked for me in the north(Ontario, Canada). This is the 18th year that I have this tree(from my first year in bonsai). Best regards, Alan ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
Iris:
If you have a propagation Mat, your Buttonwood would appreciate the warm feet, while it is trying to recover..... don't let it dry out, either... Carl L. Rosner wrote: In a message dated 6/15/03 10:50:24 AM, ManFont writes: Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only one to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood. That's what Mary Madison warned me, so I watched for it & made sure I had it in the soil when I repotted. Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days, since it is already stressed. I don't have a single literati pot at all. I will leave it cockeyed until next summer. Meanwhile I will be on the lookout for a suitable pot. We are going to a workshop at Pauline Muth's in August, & Bill will undoubtedly have pot vendors at his symposium. I can also check out local potters. Since this will be a round pot, it can be thrown on a wheel, but I have to remind them that it needs feet. How deep would you suggest? I looked at the plant carefully today, & it is partly but not totally wilted. Should I prune it? I moved it up one shelf, where it will get a little morning sun & a lot of afternoon shade. I also put a 2-gallon baggie over it. As I understand buttonwoods, it will not get cooked from the morning sun shining through the plastic, but I will watch it. Iris ************************************************* ******************************* ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************* ******************************* -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Buttonwood
In a message dated 6/15/03 7:38:29 PM, writes:
If you have a propagation Mat, your Buttonwood would appreciate the warm feet, while it is trying to recover..... Don't let it dry out, either... The weather is plenty warm here; no need for a heating cable. I don't expect to have any trouble with drying out. The Hollow Creek tropical mix has both excellent moisture retention & excellent drainage. I just have to figure out whom to leave it with when we go away in July. I may just wrap it in a baggie (& put it indoors). I found that was the best vacation solution for my rock planting. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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