If this tree lives, it will be a miracle. It came with the driftwood partly
underground at a cockeyed angle & the live part sticking up. I carved the
aboveground part in February. It started to develop dots on the leaves after all
this rain, so I sprayed it with Orthenex (which contains Triforine). The other
day I took it out of the pot & put the roots in a baggie. I heeded Mary
Madison's advice to watch for the point of root attachment, but I probably lost quite
a few roots. I wire-brushed the driftwood & treated what I thought would be
the underground part with wood hardener. Sanding it will take too long; that
will have to come later.
Yesterday I wrestled the thing into an oblong pot with Hollow Creek tropical
mix. With my watching the point of attachment & dealing with various
projections, it finally went in at an even more cockeyed angle, with the live part
sticking out in back at another cockeyed angle. Much of the wood hardener treated
part is above ground, which will make the color uneven when I try to apply
lime sulfur. I think what it really needs is a rather deep round or square
literati pot, & being potted at a more upright angle, because there is no
comprehensible front.
Right now I have it in a very shady location outside. I will let it recover.
If it should survive, can I repot it again this year in a more suitable pot?
Since the present root system is rather small, what size pot should I look for?
The tree itself is a little over a foot tall.
Iris

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Iris:
With my limited knowledge of the Buttonwood. I would put the tree in
some sort of an ICU. (A small enclosure or tent) for at least a month.
Give the poor thing a chance to recover from its trauma....

If it was my tree, I would opt to refrain from repotting again this
year.... Let it grow, let it grow!!!!

Carl L. Rosner

wrote:

If this tree lives, it will be a miracle. It came with the driftwood partly
underground at a cockeyed angle & the live part sticking up. I carved the
aboveground part in February. It started to develop dots on the leaves after all
this rain, so I sprayed it with Orthenex (which contains Triforine). The other
day I took it out of the pot & put the roots in a baggie. I heeded Mary
Madison's advice to watch for the point of root attachment, but I probably lost quite
a few roots. I wire-brushed the driftwood & treated what I thought would be
the underground part with wood hardener. Sanding it will take too long; that
will have to come later.
Yesterday I wrestled the thing into an oblong pot with Hollow Creek tropical
mix. With my watching the point of attachment & dealing with various
projections, it finally went in at an even more cockeyed angle, with the live part
sticking out in back at another cockeyed angle. Much of the wood hardener treated
part is above ground, which will make the color uneven when I try to apply
lime sulfur. I think what it really needs is a rather deep round or square
literati pot, & being potted at a more upright angle, because there is no
comprehensible front.
Right now I have it in a very shady location outside. I will let it recover.
If it should survive, can I repot it again this year in a more suitable pot?
Since the present root system is rather small, what size pot should I look for?
The tree itself is a little over a foot tall.
Iris




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Iris,
I've had brown spots on buttonwood once outside...too cool - wet?
I haven't even taken my buttonwood outside yet, it's still too cool.
I've found that buttonwood roots regenerate best after a re-pot if they
are kept consistantly warm day and night with good light.
This is why I re-pot in early spring inside.
Pot? Tough to tell without a picture.
I'm starting to order my pots from Japan for next year, so I'm going
through the tokoname catalogue right now.

Regards,
Alan

Blue Mountain Bonsai
Ontario, Canada
Zone 6

Iris,
I always let the root system dry out on buttonwood before I haul it out
of the pot to do a re-pot. There is less chance of damaging any roots.
If there are few roots,(at least where we are), it may take a year for
new roots to completely fill the pot under good growing conditions.
-A free draining mix with some organic, warm and humid, good light,
fertilize year round(the only time my buttonwood doesn't get fed is in
the fall when temperatures are lower before I bring it in.) If you don't
feed it well in winter the plant will slow down, the leaves will loose
their luster.
And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system that has been
damaged.

Now I have to trim some trees.

Best regards,
Alan

Blue Mountain Bonsai
Ontario, Canada
Zone 6

And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged.
Alan
(Dunbrook)

-------------------------

This may be the first time I have seen this statement
relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never
really let it sink in before.
I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that
growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed
chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped
for.
I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this
situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too?

Lynn,

LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA

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And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged.
Alan
(Dunbrook)

-------------------------

This may be the first time I have seen this statement
relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never
really let it sink in before.
I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that
growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed
chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped
for.
I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this
situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too?


I don't think there is a generalization to make here. Some trees
may be able to put out leaves up top with few roots. Others will
suffer if you don't keep the top in proportion.

There's at least an equal likelihood that "unrestrained" top
growth will overtax the ability of a damaged root system to
deliver the water and nutrients the top needs to survive. You
would have a tree that wilts easily -- at least.

Buttonwood that can grow in an at least slightly salty
environment may have a different transpiration rate than other
trees.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Growing
desperate: Pleeeaaassseee . . . DO NOT USE AN APOSTROPHE TO MAKE
A PLURAL!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Lynn,
Unrestrained top growth should do the trick for all trees that I have worked
with. Can't think of one that did not work that way.
Jerry Meislik
Whitefish Montana USA
Zone 4-5
http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/
And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged.
Alan
(Dunbrook)

-------------------------

This may be the first time I have seen this statement
relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never
really let it sink in before.
I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that
growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed
chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped
for.
I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this
situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too?

Lynn,

LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA

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**
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**
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


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----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis"



Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Growing
desperate: Pleeeaaassseee . . . DO NOT USE AN APOSTROPHE TO MAKE
A PLURAL!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh Boyz, knock off those apostophez on the pluralz or Jimz day will be
ruined!!!
Dale

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Lynn,
While trimming trees, root pruning, collecting and repotting here in NE Ohio
( At least) I've ALWAYS worked under the idea that "It takes roots to grow
foliage, and it takes foliage to grow roots", although this does NOT always
seem to be the norm in tropics as with buttonwood in particular.
I think very often keys-collected buttonwood are more rootless "stumps" than
not when collected. ( ones I've thrown out sure were!) But, I would rather
see people actually familiar with growing a lot of them and collecting a lot
of them answer questions about specific trees like these than folks just
stabbing in the dark. Alan, I'd sift through advice carefully here and note
where it came from. I gave up on them a few years ago and consider
buttonwoods like trying to overwinter a tomatoe plant here in Ohio although
I have friends who have been successful. ( They are a lost cause without
special lighting/heating which I'm not willing to invest for one plant) ,
but because I've had SEVERAL over the years I'd certainly not give advice on
growing them!
Dale Cochoy

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Meislik"
Subject: [IBC] Buttonwood


Lynn,
Unrestrained top growth should do the trick for all trees that I have
worked
with. Can't think of one that did not work that way.
Jerry Meislik
Whitefish Montana USA
Zone 4-5
http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/

And unrestrained top growth will help build a root system
that has been damaged.
Alan
(Dunbrook)

-------------------------

This may be the first time I have seen this statement
relating to unrestrained top growth, or it may be I never
really let it sink in before.
I know I am overly conscious when pruning of bringing that
growing apex down to size. Now I wonder if I have missed
chances to improve root growth a few times when that was hoped
for.
I'd like to know about this. Does it apply in only this
situation with the Buttonwood or other trees, too?

Lynn,

LynnBoyd, Oregon, USA

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Iris,
I agree completely with Carl, Place it in a humidity tent and keep the root
zone as warm as possible. Buttonwoods (Conocarpus erectus) will wilt (the
leaves and new shoots) very quickly if the uptake of the root system is
insufficient. If wilting has not occured and continued you should be in good shape.

Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only one
to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood.

Dale is correct aht most collected Buttonwoods are little more than rootless
stumps when collected. They are collected in our South Florida summer for the
high humidity and heat of the season. Some will place them under misters
and/or shade cloth to reduce transpiration. The clear plastic bag will serve this
purpose.

Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days, since it is already
stressed. Choose a pot that will not dry out too quickly in your climate. If you wait
longer, then do not repot until next summer - let it rest and gather strength
(new roots and foliage.

Good luck!
Luis Fontanills
Miami, Florida USA


In a message dated 6/14/2003 10:53:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:
If this tree lives, it will be a miracle. It came with the driftwood partly
underground at a cockeyed angle & the live part sticking up. I carved the
aboveground part in February. It started to develop dots on the leaves after
all
this rain, so I sprayed it with Orthenex (which contains Triforine). The other
day I took it out of the pot & put the roots in a baggie. I heeded Mary
Madison's advice to watch for the point of root attachment, but I probably
lost quite
a few roots. I wire-brushed the driftwood & treated what I thought would be
the underground part with wood hardener. Sanding it will take too long; that
will have to come later.
Yesterday I wrestled the thing into an oblong pot with Hollow Creek tropical
mix. With my watching the point of attachment & dealing with various
projections, it finally went in at an even more cockeyed angle, with the live
part
sticking out in back at another cockeyed angle. Much of the wood hardener
treated
part is above ground, which will make the color uneven when I try to apply
lime sulfur. I think what it really needs is a rather deep round or square
literati pot, & being potted at a more upright angle, because there is no
comprehensible front.
Right now I have it in a very shady location outside. I will let it recover.
If it should survive, can I repot it again this year in a more suitable pot?
Since the present root system is rather small, what size pot should I look
for?
The tree itself is a little over a foot tall.
Iris

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Well, any advice I give for growing buttonwood is for what has worked
for me in the north(Ontario, Canada). This is the 18th year that I have
this tree(from my first year in bonsai).

Best regards,
Alan

In a message dated 6/15/03 10:50:24 AM, ManFont writes:
Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only
one to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood.

That's what Mary Madison warned me, so I watched for it & made sure I had it
in the soil when I repotted.

Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days,*since it is already
stressed.

I don't have a single literati pot at all. I will leave it cockeyed until
next summer. Meanwhile I will be on the lookout for a suitable pot. We are going
to a workshop at Pauline Muth's in August, & Bill will undoubtedly have pot
vendors at his symposium. I can also check out local potters. Since this will be
a round pot, it can be thrown on a wheel, but I have to remind them that it
needs feet. How deep would you suggest?

I looked at the plant carefully today, & it is partly but not totally wilted.
Should I prune it? I moved it up one shelf, where it will get a little
morning sun & a lot of afternoon shade. I also put a 2-gallon baggie over it. As I
understand buttonwoods, it will not get cooked from the morning sun shining
through the plastic, but I will watch it.
Iris


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Alan:
I believe Iris lives in New York State, and I in Southern New Jersey. I
am always willing to hear how someone, not from Florida is keeping their
prized Buttonwood alive. If nothing more than comparing notes.....
I've had mine for five years, and it has tested me, several times, but
it is a tough old bird, and I respect it for it's tenacity to stay alive
in a differnt environment from which it originated.

Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7
http://bmee.net/rosner
http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48


Alan Dunbrook wrote:

Well, any advice I give for growing buttonwood is for what has worked
for me in the north(Ontario, Canada). This is the 18th year that I have
this tree(from my first year in bonsai).

Best regards,
Alan




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Iris:
If you have a propagation Mat, your Buttonwood would appreciate the warm
feet, while it is trying to recover..... don't let it dry out, either...

Carl L. Rosner

wrote:

In a message dated 6/15/03 10:50:24 AM, ManFont writes:


Buttonwoods often have very few main root connections and sometimes only
one to the living tissue in a specimen with a lot of deadwood.



That's what Mary Madison warned me, so I watched for it & made sure I had it
in the soil when I repotted.

Pot it in the new pot now, in the next few days, since it is already
stressed.

I don't have a single literati pot at all. I will leave it cockeyed until
next summer. Meanwhile I will be on the lookout for a suitable pot. We are going
to a workshop at Pauline Muth's in August, & Bill will undoubtedly have pot
vendors at his symposium. I can also check out local potters. Since this will be
a round pot, it can be thrown on a wheel, but I have to remind them that it
needs feet. How deep would you suggest?

I looked at the plant carefully today, & it is partly but not totally wilted.
Should I prune it? I moved it up one shelf, where it will get a little
morning sun & a lot of afternoon shade. I also put a 2-gallon baggie over it. As I
understand buttonwoods, it will not get cooked from the morning sun shining
through the plastic, but I will watch it.
Iris


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In a message dated 6/15/03 7:38:29 PM, writes:
If you have a propagation Mat, your Buttonwood would appreciate the warm
feet, while it is trying to recover..... Don't let it dry out, either...

The weather is plenty warm here; no need for a heating cable. I don't expect
to have any trouble with drying out. The Hollow Creek tropical mix has both
excellent moisture retention & excellent drainage. I just have to figure out
whom to leave it with when we go away in July. I may just wrap it in a baggie (&
put it indoors). I found that was the best vacation solution for my rock
planting.
Iris

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