My suggestion, visit

A HREF="www.evergreengardenworks.com"www.evergreengardenworks.com/A

and read some of the articles.

Although Serissa is not mentioned you should learn what you need to keep it
alive.

"Indoor Bonsai" is something of a misnomer. Some plants will survive better
than others indoors, but all benefit from as much time as possible outdoors.
I have Serissa that stay outside year round here in Florida. The hardest part
of caring for most Bonsai is watering. Be sure to read that article.

Billy on the Florida Space Coast

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Lisa Kanis++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Exactly what does 'indoor' mean?

Indoor means that a plant will survive indoors if that's where it
is forced to live. But it won't like it.

You obviously know that there aren't any "indoor" plants in
nature. Serissa may, in fact, be one of the
less-likely-to-survive-indoors-at-the-hands-of-a-newcomer bonsai.
They are tough, but temperamental, and when they suddenly lose
their leaves (as they will) neophytes assume they're in trouble
and pour on the water and fertilizer and assorted other forms of
TLC overkill -- and do just that.

They, like all plants, will do better when kept outdoors.
Serissa will like it outdoors until nighttime temperatures get
down to the mid 40s; they should _survive_ in pots to the upper
30s, but somewhere in between should be brought inside to a warm,
humid environment. Warm is fairly easy to provide indoors, as is
light -- though it takes more light than you would imagine to
keep the tree healthy and happy. Keep it in a southern window;
IN the window, not 2 feet away! North, east, or west (especially
north) are unlikely to provide enough light. Or, you can buy
grow lights. It is the "humid" part that's tough, and even
tougher if you provide indoor lighting. Humidity the serissa
would like will mildew everything in the house.

So it is a compromise, and serissa do NOT compromise. It will
immediately lose its leaves when brought inside. At this point,
WATCH YOUR WATERING. Never water until the soil feels dry.
Leafless plants don't use much water. Don't fertilize. The tree
will likely sprout a few leaves fairly soon, then will limp along
over the winter. As soon as nighttime temps reach the 40s in the
spring, put it outside again and it will be happy as a clam at
high tide. Then you can fertilize and water normally.

All the above assumes no greenhouse habitat. And, if you are in
the southern hemisphere, keep it in a northern window -- through
you should be putting it outside, right about now.

For a tree that will be happier in your house, get a Ficus (fig).

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase
'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Lisa Kanis++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

--- Jim Lewis wrote:
Exactly what does 'indoor' mean?

There is no such think as an indoor plant although we
have all seen folks with indoor plants. The usual
ones that thrive are the ones that are not too fussy
about their growing conditions. The can take subdued
light and occasionally a missed watering...and the are
in a mental category that appreciates TV.

It is my pet theory that bonsai have a higher class of
intelligence and die of bordom when kept inside.

That aside, plants like and need the light and
temperature changes that occur in nature. Sometimes
some of these conditions can be duplicated in a rather
sophisticated greenhouse, but not usually on a coffee
table in the house.

Many poor plants suffer at the hands of growers who
don't really care if the live after they are sold.
They are looked at as somewhat longer lasting than cut
flowers.

I was at a local chain garded center yesterday and
they had something that tempted me. I resisted.
There wer tropical plants labeled "miscellaneous
stumps". I think they were in the arelia family,
which means tropical. Which means indoors for the
winter even in California. The cut ends of the tops
were dipped in (?) red wax, which usually means the
plant is a bleeder. Oh so tempting...three inch
trunks, but no matter how tempting, I know I would not
be a responsible keeper for an indoor plant.

Kitsune Miko

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Lisa Kanis++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Good window light is typically better than most artificial light -
Unless you've got high intensity broad spectrum lighting. Outside, even
with clouds, provides significantly more light than either of the above.

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH

-----Original Message-----
Pauline,

Thanks a lot. I have started putting the tree out during sunlight hours
-
not that we get much sunlight, but I suppose even cloudy skies are
better
than inside. My problem is that my hours are very irregular, and I tend
to
be most active at night. Would placing the tree on a south facing
windowsill
be any good, or does the tree need the UV?

Thanks for your help,

Patrick

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Sue Crabtree++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Patrick: You have been given excellent advise from the members, but nothing was mentioned about "over watering", which could be one reason your Serissa is losing yellow leaves, and a second reason for yellowing and dropping is your tree is probably trying to acclimate itself to your environment, which usually is different than where it ws positioned prior to your acquisition.

Here's one method of watering:

Place a tooth pick or bamboo skewer into the soil (known as the Michael Persiano Pick) and do not water until the pick comes out almost damp to dry. Do not water a tree on a schedule. there are too many variables in when a tree needs watering.



Watering technique is very much related to the environmental conditions and placement of your tree. Michael Persiano has provided a time proven technique for determining when your tree requires water. The basic watering technique itself is this; first wet the surface of the 'soil'. This allows you to control the intensity and avoid the washing out that a heavier stream of water may cause. The purpose of this initial watering is to break the surface tension which tends to keep the water from penetrating down to the roots and deeper soil.



Once you have completed this initial watering, wait about 10 to 15 minute interval and then water again. You should water on to the soil until you see water spreading out under the pot. If you have the time wait another interval and water for the third time!

Good luck, Carl L. Rosner




Patrick Maloney wrote:
Hello Everyone,

I was given a bonsai tree as a gift in mid-February. The label states that
it is a "Tree of a Thousand Stars" (Serissa foetida). The label also states
that it is an "Evergreen indoor bonsai... Likes warm position and good
light, away from draughts. Min. temp 50F. Water frequently, feed weekly in
growing season."

I have done all this and yet the tree still seems very sickly. The leaves
are yellowing and dropping off, several per day. The food I'm using is
Chrysal plant food for Bonsai.

Any advice would be very welcome.

Thank you.

Patrick

--



Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7

www.carlrosner.com
http://www.yessy.com/arteacher3725
http://rosner.becanz.net

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Sue Crabtree++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

A south window is good this time of year...the more light the better.
Check my writing on Indoor Bonsai at my site in the education section of
www.pfmbonsai.com
Pauline
Patrick...tryed to send this just to your email but it rejects me

-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ]On Behalf
Of Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL)
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 12:35 PM
To:
Subject: [IBC] Help!


Good window light is typically better than most artificial light -
Unless you've got high intensity broad spectrum lighting. Outside, even
with clouds, provides significantly more light than either of the above.

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH

-----Original Message-----
Pauline,

Thanks a lot. I have started putting the tree out during sunlight hours
-
not that we get much sunlight, but I suppose even cloudy skies are
better
than inside. My problem is that my hours are very irregular, and I tend
to
be most active at night. Would placing the tree on a south facing
windowsill
be any good, or does the tree need the UV?

Thanks for your help,

Patrick

************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Sue Crabtree++++
************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Sue Crabtree++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I would like to thank everyone for their kind help in answering my question.
I feel much happier about my tree now.

Thanks,

Patrick