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[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Hi all;
I've been following the many threads regarding over wintering trees and am somewhat confused. Here in central PA we've had spring like weather for the past few weeks, but next weekend I'm going to prepare for the inevitable low temps and accumulation of white stuff. I fully understand (thanks Nina) that photosynthesis ceases at or near freezing, and that trees don't need light during dormancy. However, the "mulching" process still confuses me. I'm assuming that most people bury their trees into their gardens, then mound some form of mulch up to the first branch, or in some cases, completely cover the tree. Now here's where I get confused.... What function does this mulching process perform? Here in Central PA, in a typical winter, the ground freezes well below the depth of the pots, and I'm assuming, well below the potted roots. Mulch obviously doesn't keep the roots from freezing, so what function does it perform other than keeping the roots from drying out ?? I've brought my trees into an unheated greenhouse which receives partial sunlight (one hour/day). Should I still cover the pots in some manner? Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA, Zone 6 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
However, the
"mulching" process still confuses me. Mulch doesn't stop the ground from freezing; it prevents the ground from *thawing*. The greatest stress on both trees and pots is irregular weather when the ground continually freezes and thaws. Mulch acts as a buffer. Snow will do the same thing, if yo u are lucky enough (nyah nyah Jim) to live where you get a continuous blanket of snow. Both mulch and snow will buffer the ground from going too much BELOW freezing, because a sudden severe cold snap can kill inadequately protected roots. A real cold-frame acts on the same principle: the trees are placed in a hole deep enough that the ground stays frozen, but does not get much colder than freezing, or much above freezing. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Nina Shishkoff wrote:
However, the "mulching" process still confuses me. Mulch doesn't stop the ground from freezing; it prevents the ground from *thawing*. The greatest stress on both trees and pots is irregular weather when the ground continually freezes and thaws. Mulch acts as a buffer. Snow will do the same thing, if you are lucky enough (nyah nyah Jim) to live where you get a continuous blanket of snow. Both mulch and snow will buffer the ground from going too much BELOW freezing, because a sudden severe cold snap can kill inadequately protected roots. snip Nina has it exactly right. Mulching evens out the highs and lows of temperatures. It can sometimes get warm on a sunny winter day, and a tree in a pot exposed to the elements could begin to thaw out. Snow is another benefit of winter. It does the same thing as mulch, by insulating the ground and whatever is in it, and helping to moderate the highs and lows. When I lived in Maine, we would sometimes have what the old-timers called an "open winter," wi th no snow. Let me tell you, the ground would freeze far deeper than it did if there were snow on the ground, sometimes as deep as three feet. That's a lot of frost. If it were to snow, especially if the snow had fallen early enough, like November, the ground would be more insulated because it had not had a chance to freeze very deeply. During an open winter people would have problems with their wells, pipes would freeze, in the late winter the ground would heave from the excessive frost i n the ground, and we'd have a mud season that was legendary. Snow also protects evergreens from windburn. It's a great thing. I leave my trees open to the elements so snow will build up around them. They are in the front of the house, between a retaining wall and the foundation so there's protection from wind. The snow slides off the roof and fills the area up, and when I'm shoveling the sidwalk I shovel the snow right in. I like to keep the trees completely buried in snow if at all possible. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks (as usual) Nina and Craig .... the process seems much clearer now.
I was planning on over-wintering my trees in an unheated greenhouse, but I'm sure that trees left on the benches will freeze and thaw with the small amount of sunlight they receive every day. As much as I hate to, I guess I'd better bury my trees outside in a shaded area between the house and fence where they'll get almost no sunlight and mounds of snow. I sure hope this works ..... the thought of loosing my new creations scares me death!! Mark (reluctant newbie!!) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
I sure hope this works ..... the thought of loosing my new creations scares
me death!! Mark It works wonderfully, 9 years out of 10. Last winter, was for me, the one out of 10 when it doesn't; we had a very severe, snowless winter and I lost a few half-hardy trees like Poncirus and Lagerstroemia (crape myrtle). But everything that I have that i s appropropriate to the climate did fine. It's nature's way of telling me to use native plants! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark:
I believe the best place would be on the north side of the house, if that is possible.... I use my garage for all of my trees that are not tropical or sub tropical. I lay a bunch of cinderblocks in a doule row on the floor in an inverted "u" shape. I place my trees in between the cinder blocks and cover with mulch. Weekly, I can then walk in between the double row of blocks and check to see if they need watering. Last Winter, which was unusually severe, I watered twice the whole winter. Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7 http://bmee.net/rosner http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48 http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48 Mark Hill wrote: Thanks (as usual) Nina and Craig .... the process seems much clearer now. I was planning on over-wintering my trees in an unheated greenhouse, but I'm sure that trees left on the benches will freeze and thaw with the small amount of sunlight they receive every day. As much as I hate to, I guess I'd better bury my trees outside in a shaded area between the house and fence where they'll get almost no sunlight and mounds of snow. I sure hope this works ..... the thought of loosing my new creations scares me death!! Mark (reluctant newbie!!) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark Hill wrote:
Thanks (as usual) Nina and Craig .... the process seems much clearer now. I was planning on over-wintering my trees in an unheated greenhouse, but I'm sure that trees left on the benches will freeze and thaw with the small amount of sunlight they receive every day. As much as I hate to, I guess I'd better bury my trees outside in a shaded area between the house and fence where they'll get almost no sunlight and mounds of snow. Think of it as a time to rest from working on your hardy trees. Having them out of sight for a few months will give you a new perspective in the spring. They'll be there waiting for you. I sure hope this works ..... the thought of loosing my new creations scares me death!! Mark (reluctant newbie!!) The only way you'd lose them would be by going against the laws of nature. Over-wintering them this way corresponds with they way the trees would live in their native environment. You won't lose them. The main thing is mulch, bury them in snow, and provide protection from the wind. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks for the encouragement Nina.
Most of my trees are maples (Bloodgood), Hinoki Cyprus, junipers (Chinensis) or pines (Mugho). I assume these critters will withstand the cold here in central PA. I'll reluctantly bury/mulch them this weekend. :-( I have a couple of Ficus that'll remain indoors over the winter in well light, south facing windows. I also have a large Elm (Ulmus Parvafolia ??) that I'm keeping inside because I was forced to repot it in the late summer. It was dropping yellow leaves like crazy. When I finally checked the roots in September, I found that a great deal of the roots where rotting because of the poor soil, drainage and over watering. Since repotting, it has produced lots of new leaves that seem very happy. I haven't seen a yellow leaf since. I'm reluctant to let it suffer through a winter because of the late repotting, weak root system and lack of leaves. Thanks for your continued help. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Nina Shishkoff ] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 10:45 AM To: Mark Hill; Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? I sure hope this works ..... the thought of loosing my new creations scares me death!! Mark It works wonderfully, 9 years out of 10. Last winter, was for me, the one out of 10 when it doesn't; we had a very severe, snowless winter and I lost a few half-hardy trees like Poncirus and Lagerstroemia (crape myrtle). But everything that I have that is appropropriate to the climate did fine. It's nature's way of telling me to use native plants! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Carl.
Creating a U shaped retaining wall sounds like a good idea. The only problem is that most of my winter winds come from the north. My trees would obviously need to be protected from the winds. I guess I could build a retaining wall, stick my trees into the ground, mulch like crazy, then wait for the snow to fill the void. Winter is obviously the scariest part of bonsai !! Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Carl L Rosner Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 10:53 AM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Mark: I believe the best place would be on the north side of the house, if that is possible.... I use my garage for all of my trees that are not tropical or sub tropical. I lay a bunch of cinderblocks in a doule row on the floor in an inverted "u" shape. I place my trees in between the cinder blocks and cover with mulch. Weekly, I can then walk in between the double row of blocks and check to see if they need watering. Last Winter, which was unusually severe, I watered twice the whole winter. Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7 http://bmee.net/rosner http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...page&artistid= 0000006848 http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja..._page&artistid =0000006848 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark,
I'm not sure that the A. palmatum - Bloodgood - will survive being outdoors. Other's in YOUR area certainly know better, but I protect mine -here- from excessively long cold spells, a phrase which here means, more that a few days in the mid to upper 20's . I'd freak out if I had to leave them in the snow. What say you frigid folk? Regards, Shelly Hurd Central CA - Sunset Zone 8-USDA Zone 9 ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Hill To: Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 8:05 AM Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Thanks for the encouragement Nina. Most of my trees are maples (Bloodgood), Hinoki Cyprus, junipers (Chinensis) or pines (Mugho). I assume these critters will withstand the cold here in central PA. I'll reluctantly bury/mulch them this weekend. :-( SNIP ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark Hill wrote:
Thanks Craig. It seems difficult to leave your "babies" outside in the snow bank, when you've devoted so much time and effort to them all spring/summer. At first, yes, but once you get accustomed to the cycles of the seasons it isn't hard. I guess this is where the "tough love" part comes in !! I guess it isn't so much that. It's trusting nature. My next challenge will be to resist over-watering them during the winter months. That's easy. Unless you have an unusually warm winter with temperatures always above freezing, you won't have to water at all. Once the soil freezes in the pot and stays frozen you're all set for spring. Mark (I sure hope they're still happy in the spring!) They'll be fine. Craig Cowing NY zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Shelly Hurd wrote:
Mark, I'm not sure that the A. palmatum - Bloodgood - will survive being outdoors. Snip What say you frigid folk? Regards, Shelly Hurd Central CA - Sunset Zone 8-USDA Zone 9 Nope. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Shelly / Craig;
Are you suggesting I leave the Bloodgood indoors ? Hmmmmm ..... I started a dozen trees from seeds this spring from a parent tree in my mothers front yard. Her tree is a multi-trunk that's 25 feet tall. 30 years ago she was told it was a Bloodgood, and from my research, it certainly looks like one. Maybe it's the seedlings that can't survive the cold. This would account for the fact that none of her garden seedlings have ever survived the winter. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Craig Cowing Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 12:41 PM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Craig wrote: Nope. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks for the encouragement Craig.
I'll stick them in the ground and hold my breath !! Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Craig Cowing Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 12:39 PM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Craig wrote: They'll be fine. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
in September, I found that a great deal of the roots where
rotting because of the poor soil, drainage and over watering. Since repotting, it has produced lots of new leaves that seem very happy. I haven't seen a yellow leaf since. I'm reluctant to let it suffer through a winter because of the late repotting, weak root system and lack of leaves. I'd probably vote to keep this one inside. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
It seems difficult to leave your "babies" outside in the snow bank, when you've devoted so much time and effort to them all spring/summer. At first, yes, but once you get accustomed to the cycles of the seasons it isn't hard. I guess this is where the "tough love" part comes in !! I guess it isn't so much that. It's trusting nature. IMHO, you should never try to fool -- or trust -- Ma Nature. Much as I love Her, She is a fickle, frivolous Hussy. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Shelly / Craig;
Are you suggesting I leave the Bloodgood indoors ? Hmmmmm ..... I started a dozen trees from seeds this spring from a parent tree in my mothers front yard. Her tree is a multi-trunk that's 25 feet tall. 30 years ago she was told it was a Bloodgood, and from my research, it certainly looks like one. Maybe it's the seedlings that can't survive the cold. This would account for the fact that none of her garden seedlings have ever survived the winter. Mark The Japanese maples (ALL of them) are among the trees that should be kept overwinter in an attached, dark, garage. Even if some Japanese maples thrive in the ground in your neighborhood, their survival rate in pots is at least one climate zone warmer. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark,
What Jim said. Unheated garage will do. I would not keep the tree inside the house. Mine are in the garage, in very low light conditions, and they are fine. Like we've already established, light isn't a requirement during dormancy. Seedlings certainly need a little TLC to make it through to spring. Regards, Shelly Hurd Central CA - Sunset Zone 8-USDA Zone 9 "Mark Hill" wrote: Shelly / Craig; Are you suggesting I leave the Bloodgood indoors ? Hmmmmm ..... I started a dozen trees from seeds this spring. SNIP |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Jim.
I'll keep it inside this year and give it some dormancy next winter. Hopefully it'll survive this winter and turn into a healthy tree by next summer. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Jim Lewis Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 12:44 PM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? in September, I found that a great deal of the roots where rotting because of the poor soil, drainage and over watering. Since repotting, it has produced lots of new leaves that seem very happy. I haven't seen a yellow leaf since. I'm reluctant to let it suffer through a winter because of the late repotting, weak root system and lack of leaves. I'd probably vote to keep this one inside. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Hi Mark.
I'm well south of you, but not so far south that my bonsai & potensai roots don't freeze solid in the winter-- even in a cold garage. I was surprised that it doesn't take long before a chopstick applied to the rootball merely hits a frozen object and stays that way. Folks with elaborate facilities might try to avoid freeezing but it must be an oh-so-much-more-delicate process of control than encouraging modest freezing after it truly gets that cold. The only potted Japanese maples I've lost to freezing were threadleaf varieties. They were fully exposed when cold hit, & I was travelling. Bloodgood is very winter hardy. Then, again... my experience is that crape myrtles (the full-sized varieties) do fine, even when exposed, if they don't dry-out during a freeze-thaw cycle. Following Nina's advice mitigates that occuring. Your will experience MUCH colder winters than mine-- your advantage is that the interim thaws will be fewer. We can each be satisfied (even excited) about our winter experience. Even Reiner... :-))) Bonsai, btw, can be beautiful accents to your home on a moonlit night in snowfall. Asian cultures speak of fruits (plum/apricot) coming to bloom at the first blush of spring. J. quinces might be a safer bet in handling cold... & they re-bloom and fruit wonderfully, too. Best wishes, Chris... C. Cochrane, , Richmond VA USA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark Hill wrote:
Shelly / Craig; Are you suggesting I leave the Bloodgood indoors ? Hmmmmm ..... Not at all. Keep them outside. I started a dozen trees from seeds this spring from a parent tree in my mothers front yard. Her tree is a multi-trunk that's 25 feet tall. 30 years ago she was told it was a Bloodgood, and from my research, it certainly looks like one. Maybe it's the seedlings that can't survive the cold. This would account for the fact that none of her garden seedlings have ever survived the winter. Mark The seedlings should stay outside, just mulch them well. Craig Cowing NY zone 5b/6a Sunset 3 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
As flip as I was yesterday about living in California,
we do, every 7-10 years or so get what is called a killer frost in the SF Bay area. Huge trees established in the ground freeze so hard the bark pops off. Problem is that we don't always know which frosts will be the killer ones. I think it is the sudden shock of these frosts that does plants in. There is no gradual chilling process, just the shock of sudden freze. For years I would run out in the dark of a freezing night to try to put a sheet over the manderin orange tree in the ground. It was easy at first, but now that it is 10-12 feet high, I haven't had the help or the energy to do this and the tree has survived. It is sourrounded by fence and is near the house. Perhaps that area never gets that cold. But I have lost Californina oakbonsai to killer frosts. My bonfire maples do fine. Much of my somewhat delicate stuff is under the shade cloth which perserves a bit of warmth, but succulents will go mushy there. Some of the succlunts and the citrus go in the front porch where I can throw a sheet over them if necessary. I can't seem to grow protea here beause they don't last more than a few years without getting killed by frost. I had a small Texas ebony for about 7 years before the frost got it. Unfortunately the frosts come when I am sort of in hibernation and don't have all my senses active (some would argue that I seldom do). Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Are you suggesting I leave the Bloodgood indoors ? Hmmmmm ..... Japanese maples do well outdoors in winter with protection (in zone 6/7). They do get dieback from cold winds, so they need shelter. I use hay bales as windbreaks for my bonsai, and I put the maples right next to the bales. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks all for your advice and encouragement.
I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? Mark It's going to be difficult looking at those snow mounds, knowing my "babies" are buried beneath. Am I allowed to peek ?? ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
One other thing mulching-in does that I don't think anyone mentioned. It
helps keep shallow-potted, small-potted, root-bound items from drying out while other trees are still moist. This can be a problem if you aren't checking on stuff all the time ( like I don't!) and some items might get to dry and damage. I have a couple trees that I had this problem with in the past so now each year I just mulch them into boxes. BTW, for "touchy" things here in the NE ( for me anyway) like Tridents, Satsuki, Needle Juniper, Bald Cypress I put them in styrofoam boxes with some holes in bottom, a layer of mulch in bottom, tree w/ pot inside, then mulch up over pot. Works great, no problems. Just watch to not OVERWATER these. Regards, Dale Cochoy, Wild Things Bonsai Studio, Hartville, Ohio http://www.WildThingsBonsai.Com Specializing in power wood carving tools. Yakimono no Kokoro bonsai pottery of hand-built stoneware ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Dale
I have two nice azaleas in training pots about 12 X 18 X 6 inch that I was wondering what to do with. I know they don't like wind, so I was considering digging them in between my house and a fence, then mounding mulch up to the first branch. Your idea sounds better. I'll try not to over water them, but it sure is tempting !! Mark -----Original Message----- From: dalecochoy ] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 3:37 PM To: Mark Hill; Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? One other thing mulching-in does that I don't think anyone mentioned. It helps keep shallow-potted, small-potted, root-bound items from drying out while other trees are still moist. This can be a problem if you aren't checking on stuff all the time ( like I don't!) and some items might get to dry and damage. I have a couple trees that I had this problem with in the past so now each year I just mulch them into boxes. BTW, for "touchy" things here in the NE ( for me anyway) like Tridents, Satsuki, Needle Juniper, Bald Cypress I put them in styrofoam boxes with some holes in bottom, a layer of mulch in bottom, tree w/ pot inside, then mulch up over pot. Works great, no problems. Just watch to not OVERWATER these. Regards, Dale Cochoy, Wild Things Bonsai Studio, Hartville, Ohio http://www.WildThingsBonsai.Com Specializing in power wood carving tools. Yakimono no Kokoro bonsai pottery of hand-built stoneware ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark:
If you are going to dig a hole, you might want to put a few inches of pebbles in the bottom for drainage. The mulch could stay too wet. I do suggest that you put in long bamboo skewers into the root ball halfway between the trunk and the edge of the pot. When you mulch the bamboo skewer should stick out above the mulch. Pull the skewer out on a weekly basis. If the dirty end is wet, then you know not to water... The skewer may freeze into the rootball in the pot. They definitely do not need watering. Figure that you might have to water several times during the winter and maybe not at all. That's why you check!!! 8-) Carl L. Rosner Mark Hill wrote: Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark Hill wrote:
Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? Not an issue once things are frozen. My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I wouldn't go to the trouble. I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? Yep. Mark It's going to be difficult looking at those snow mounds, knowing my "babies" are buried beneath. Am I allowed to peek ?? Don't give in to the temptation to mess with them once they're locked in for the winter. If they're buried in snow the snow will crystalize after some time and you will risk breaking branches if you mess around. After my first winter I couldn't resist getting my trees out as early as possible, and I broke a pot in addition to some branches in trying to wrestle them free from the snow. It isn't worth it. Just relax, get a few tropicals to work on during the winter, and wait. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark:
If you are going to dig a hole, you might want to put a few inches of pebbles in the bottom for drainage. The mulch could stay too wet. I do suggest that you put in long bamboo skewers into the root ball halfway between the trunk and the edge of the pot. When you mulch the bamboo skewer should stick out above the mulch. Pull the skewer out on a weekly basis. If the dirty end is wet, then you know not to water... The skewer may freeze into the rootball in the pot. They definitely do not need watering. Figure that you might have to water several times during the winter and maybe not at all. That's why you check!!! 8-) Carl L. Rosner Mark Hill wrote: Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Mark Hill wrote:
Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? Not an issue once things are frozen. My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I wouldn't go to the trouble. I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? Yep. Mark It's going to be difficult looking at those snow mounds, knowing my "babies" are buried beneath. Am I allowed to peek ?? Don't give in to the temptation to mess with them once they're locked in for the winter. If they're buried in snow the snow will crystalize after some time and you will risk breaking branches if you mess around. After my first winter I couldn't resist getting my trees out as early as possible, and I broke a pot in addition to some branches in trying to wrestle them free from the snow. It isn't worth it. Just relax, get a few tropicals to work on during the winter, and wait. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Carl
Looks like I've got a weekend ahead of me on the business end of a shovel. Now I know why one shouldn't accumulate more than two dozen trees !! I already use the bamboo skewer trick to check my watering. I started this after I over watered my elm, almost to the point of death. I'll continue using them throughout the winter months. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Carl L Rosner Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 4:14 PM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Mark: If you are going to dig a hole, you might want to put a few inches of pebbles in the bottom for drainage. The mulch could stay too wet. I do suggest that you put in long bamboo skewers into the root ball halfway between the trunk and the edge of the pot. When you mulch the bamboo skewer should stick out above the mulch. Pull the skewer out on a weekly basis. If the dirty end is wet, then you know not to water... The skewer may freeze into the rootball in the pot. They definitely do not need watering. Figure that you might have to water several times during the winter and maybe not at all. That's why you check!!! 8-) Carl L. Rosner Mark Hill wrote: Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Carl
Looks like I've got a weekend ahead of me on the business end of a shovel. Now I know why one shouldn't accumulate more than two dozen trees !! I already use the bamboo skewer trick to check my watering. I started this after I over watered my elm, almost to the point of death. I'll continue using them throughout the winter months. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of Carl L Rosner Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 4:14 PM To: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Mark: If you are going to dig a hole, you might want to put a few inches of pebbles in the bottom for drainage. The mulch could stay too wet. I do suggest that you put in long bamboo skewers into the root ball halfway between the trunk and the edge of the pot. When you mulch the bamboo skewer should stick out above the mulch. Pull the skewer out on a weekly basis. If the dirty end is wet, then you know not to water... The skewer may freeze into the rootball in the pot. They definitely do not need watering. Figure that you might have to water several times during the winter and maybe not at all. That's why you check!!! 8-) Carl L. Rosner Mark Hill wrote: Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
In a message dated 11/24/2003 4:14:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:
Mark: If you are going to dig a hole, you might want to put a few inches of pebbles in the bottom for drainage. Be advised that many of you live in geographies where the water tables are high. In such regions, you might wake one morning to find that you tree has been sitting in water. Cold frames are great when they are constructed in the right locations with proper drainage. Consult local practitioners for the soundest wintering advice. Cordially, Michael Persiano http://members.aol.com/iasnob/index.html ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Why Mulch ??
Thanks Craig.
Thankfully I have a couple of ficus that'll keep me busy all winter. If only I could convince them to grow faster !! I've also stuck a few outdoor perennials into pots and I'm trying to make them last the winter. Guess I'll pour through my mountain of bonsai books and re-read them all again. Isn't winter a boring season ?? Maybe I should take up curling !! Mark -----Original Message----- From: Craig Cowing ] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 5:07 PM To: Mark Hill Cc: Subject: [IBC] Why Mulch ?? Mark Hill wrote: Thanks all for your advice and encouragement. I'll dig and mulch my trees this weekend, in a spot that won't get much sunshine or wind. Another question ..... How about drainage ?? Not an issue once things are frozen. My soil is rather clay like. Puddles form in driving rain which slowly drains away. Should I dig a deeper hole and put a layer of mulch below the pots, put the pots/trees in the hole then mulch over the pot up to the first branch? I wouldn't go to the trouble. I'm assuming if they're covered in snow, they'll be frozen and won't require water ..... right ?? Yep. Mark It's going to be difficult looking at those snow mounds, knowing my "babies" are buried beneath. Am I allowed to peek ?? Don't give in to the temptation to mess with them once they're locked in for the winter. If they're buried in snow the snow will crystalize after some time and you will risk breaking branches if you mess around. After my first winter I couldn't resist getting my trees out as early as possible, and I broke a pot in addition to some branches in trying to wrestle them free from the snow. It isn't worth it. Just relax, get a few tropicals to work on during the winter, and wait. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Carl Rosner++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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