|
[IBC] The Need to Feed (Was [IBC] Shimpaku Juniper)
In a message dated 8/26/04 9:09:38 AM, IASNOB writes:
The Shimpaku is a reasonably show growing specimen. * If you aggressively feed the tree, you can expect to see substantial development after one year. I feed everybody as aggressively as possible, except for a few full-grown specimens. After comparing pictures and descriptions, I suspect my little one is 'Kishu Shimpaku,' which is fine with me. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
In a message dated 8/26/04 9:09:38 AM, IASNOB writes:
The Shimpaku is a reasonably show growing specimen. * If you aggressively feed the tree, you can expect to see substantial development after one year. I feed everybody as aggressively as possible, except for a few full-grown specimens. After comparing pictures and descriptions, I suspect my little one is 'Kishu Shimpaku,' which is fine with me. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Interesting quandry: When we are developing trees, we
wnat to get there quickly, but when we get there we want the trees to go into a growth holding pattern. I have a Kinsville Box that just sits there. It has sat there now for about 10-15 years in a 10 gallon can, super fed underfed, no difference. If its growing at all, its got me fooled. Some day perhaps, I will bite the bullet and admit that as a bonsai, this one will be best at 3 inches. Kitsune Miko OT Haiku Roused from summer lethargy By the frosted edges Of a late summer’s day Copyright 8-26-04 by the Poetess Kitsune Miko --- wrote: In a message dated 8/26/04 9:09:38 AM, IASNOB writes: The Shimpaku is a reasonably show growing specimen. If you aggressively feed the tree, you can expect to see substantial development after one year. I feed everybody as aggressively as possible, except for a few full-grown specimens. After comparing pictures and descriptions, I suspect my little one is 'Kishu Shimpaku,' which is fine with me. Iris ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune writes:
Interesting quandry: When we are developing trees, we wnat to get there quickly, but when we get there we want the trees to go into a growth holding pattern. I have a Kinsville Box that just sits there. It has sat there now for about 10-15 years in a 10 gallon can, super fed underfed, no difference. If its growing at all, its got me fooled. Some day perhaps, I will bite the bullet and admit that as a bonsai, this one will be best at 3 inches. Kitsune: I am about the publish an article in Bonsai Europe on the styling of a 50 year old Kingsville. The tree went through a drastic styling (the first) in the spring of 2004. The combination of fast-draining soil and Superfeeding (my method) has resulted in remarkable growth--even for this species that is reputed to grow at 1/8-1/4 inch per year. We do have the ability to style our trees and produce targeted growth. I will soon place a few photographs on my site. I will point those of you to the site who have interest in this species in the near future. Kingsville, when motivated, will grow like weeds. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune writes:
Interesting quandry: When we are developing trees, we wnat to get there quickly, but when we get there we want the trees to go into a growth holding pattern. I have a Kinsville Box that just sits there. It has sat there now for about 10-15 years in a 10 gallon can, super fed underfed, no difference. If its growing at all, its got me fooled. Some day perhaps, I will bite the bullet and admit that as a bonsai, this one will be best at 3 inches. Kitsune: I am about the publish an article in Bonsai Europe on the styling of a 50 year old Kingsville. The tree went through a drastic styling (the first) in the spring of 2004. The combination of fast-draining soil and Superfeeding (my method) has resulted in remarkable growth--even for this species that is reputed to grow at 1/8-1/4 inch per year. We do have the ability to style our trees and produce targeted growth. I will soon place a few photographs on my site. I will point those of you to the site who have interest in this species in the near future. Kingsville, when motivated, will grow like weeds. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Michael Persiano wrote:
Kitsune writes: snip I have a Kinsville Box that just sits there. It has sat there now for about 10-15 years in a 10 gallon can, super fed underfed, no difference. snip Kitsune: I am about the publish an article in Bonsai Europe on the styling of a 50 year old Kingsville. The tree went through a drastic styling (the first) in the spring of 2004. The combination of fast-draining soil and Superfeeding (my method) has resulted in remarkable growth--even for this species that is reputed to grow at 1/8-1/4 inch per year. snip Kingsville, when motivated, will grow like weeds. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob I have had the same experience with Kingsville. I have three of them and now a pile of cuttings. Last year I bought two 2 gallon specimens that had been grown outdoors in Maryland. The nursery guy started them himself from cuttings and knew exactly how old they are--now 42 years--the same age as Anita! (am I allowed to reveal that info?) Anyway, I have been fertilizing these along with my other trees and have had tremendous growth and development of pads. I cut them down this spring and potted them in pots, and one will be ready for display at our wedding in October. With repeated manicuring I have found that it is possible to develop well-defined pads in a couple of years. One caveat with fertilizing, however, is that a Kingsville will sometimes respond with larger growth, so if that happens it might be necessary to back off on fertilizer. I don't know where the 1/8" to 1/4" growth a year thing came from, Michael, but I've gotten more growth than that. It is a truly satisfying cultivar to work with, especially in a climate such as mine where they will not winter safely outdoors. I keep mine outside until around early December, then bring them in and keep them under fluorescent lights--very close to the lights. This helps in quicker development because you extend the growing season. Craig Cowing NY zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
In a message dated 8/29/2004 1:15:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: One caveat with fertilizing, however, is that a Kingsville will sometimes respond with larger growth, so if that happens it might be necessary to back off on fertilizer. I don't know where the 1/8" to 1/4" growth a year thing came from, Michael, but I've gotten more growth than that. It is a truly satisfying cultivar to work with, especially in a climate such as mine where they will not winter safely outdoors. I keep mine outside until around early December, then bring them in and keep them under fluorescent lights--very close to the lights. This helps in quicker development because you extend the growing season. Craig: My preference is to winter Kingsville in a cold environment at around 35-degrees Fahrenheit. As you know, they do quite well in your neck of the woods as fielded material for bonsai. On another note, I would suggest that the larger leaves on the Kingsville are the result of a little too much water and not the result of fertilizing. I will post the styled tree for Bonsai Europe with a close up of the foliage--the result of intensive feedings throughout the 2004 growing season. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
wrote:
In a message dated 8/29/2004 1:15:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes: One caveat with fertilizing, however, is that a Kingsville will sometimes respond with larger growth, so if that happens it might be necessary to back off on fertilizer. I don't know where the 1/8" to 1/4" growth a year thing came from, Michael, but I've gotten more growth than that. It is a truly satisfying cultivar to work with, especially in a climate such as mine where they will not winter safely outdoors. I keep mine outside until around early December, then bring them in and keep them under fluorescent lights--very close to the lights. This helps in quicker development because you extend the growing season. Craig: My preference is to winter Kingsville in a cold environment at around 35-degrees Fahrenheit. As you know, they do quite well in your neck of the woods as fielded material for bonsai. Michael: I guess you're not familiar with my area. Despite the fact that I'm only 1.5 hours away from downtown Manhattan, it gets considerably colder here. We're at a much higher elevation than NYC. Last winter we had several mornings below zero, a couple of times at -10. Even in a protected environment I am quite sure a Kingsville would not survive a winter outdoors here. Even my Ilex crenata didn't make it and it was pretty well protected. I also lost a few small Chinese Elms and another died back to the base, and all were protected. People here tell me that's the coldest it gets here, but I don't want to take any chances. I find my Kingsvilles do quite well indoors after a month or more of dormancy outside. The other problem is that I don't have an area in the house or elsewhere that is dry and stays around 35F. On another note, I would suggest that the larger leaves on the Kingsville are the result of a little too much water and not the result of fertilizing. I will post the styled tree for Bonsai Europe with a close up of the foliage--the result of intensive feedings throughout the 2004 growing season. Cordially, Michael Persianomembers.aol.com/iasnob That's a possibility I haven't thought about. The trees are in full shade and I water pretty much every day. Would it be ok to cut back on watering some? It isn't a serious problem--I just get a flush of growth like that occasionally. I cut it all off and no harm is done. This happens, btw, on two out of three of my trees. The third I've had longer and it doesn't produce these leaves. I'll be looking forward to the pictures. When is the magazine going to be available? I don't subscribe but I'd love to get a copy. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Craig writes:
Michael: I guess you're not familiar with my area. Despite the fact that I'm only 1.5 hours away from downtown Manhattan, it gets considerably colder here. We're at a much higher elevation than NYC. Last winter we had several mornings below zero, a couple of times at -10. Even in a protected environment I am quite sure a Kingsville would not survive a winter outdoors here. Even my Ilex crenata didn't make it and it was pretty well protected. I also lost a few small Chinese Elms and another died back to the base, and all were protected. People here tell me that's the coldest it gets here, but I don't want to take any chances. I find my Kingsvilles do quite well indoors after a month or more of dormancy outside. The other problem is that I don't have an area in the house or elsewhere that is dry and stays around 35F. Craig: If it works, don't fix it. Last winter challenged all of our trees, and I know of few people who did not incur some level of damage. That's a possibility I haven't thought about. The trees are in full shade and I water pretty much every day. Would it be ok to cut back on watering some? It isn't a serious problem--I just get a flush of growth like that occasionally. I cut it all off and no harm is done. This happens, btw, on two out of three of my trees. The third I've had longer and it doesn't produce these leaves. Craig: Your watering habits may be fine. I am suggesting that most of the bonsai with oversized leaves and unusually long needles are the result of overwatering. I would suggest experimenting with less water and recording the results. Frankly, slightly oversized leaves and needles do not bother me aesthetically if the tree as a whole is large enough to accommodate them from a visual/artistic perspective. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:48 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
GardenBanter