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[IBC] Applying Lime Sulfur
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 13:43:42 -0400, Mark Hill
wrote: Hi all; A few months ago I took a class at Jim Doyle's and started a nice JP Nana that looks great with a few jin where the lower branches used to be. Last weekend I dropped by Jims and bought a bottle of Lime Sulfur. When I brought it home I realized that I have no idea how to treat jin before applying the LS. Should I be wire brushing them ? One thing I've learned .... don't apply it in the house !! Any good tips ? Thanks Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA ************************************************* ************************* ****** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************* ************************* ****** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ In the past some have said to let the branch dry out before applying lime sulfur. I have found that it does work better if the branch is somewhat dry before applying LS. It seems to absorb the LS better and tends to look better after the LS dries. The LS will have orange look to it until it dries. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 13:43:42 -0400, Mark Hill
wrote: Hi all; A few months ago I took a class at Jim Doyle's and started a nice JP Nana that looks great with a few jin where the lower branches used to be. Last weekend I dropped by Jims and bought a bottle of Lime Sulfur. When I brought it home I realized that I have no idea how to treat jin before applying the LS. Should I be wire brushing them ? One thing I've learned .... don't apply it in the house !! Any good tips ? Thanks Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA ************************************************* ************************* ****** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************* ************************* ****** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ In the past some have said to let the branch dry out before applying lime sulfur. I have found that it does work better if the branch is somewhat dry before applying LS. It seems to absorb the LS better and tends to look better after the LS dries. The LS will have orange look to it until it dries. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
We use a lot of Lime sulfur on collected Buttonwoods. I have tried it both
ways, wet and dry. I think I prefer dry. But the wood does need to dry out if a freshly cut jin is the object. Sometimes the look we want on Buttonwoods is the stark white of the LS. Billy on the Florida Space Coast ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
We use a lot of Lime sulfur on collected Buttonwoods. I have tried it both
ways, wet and dry. I think I prefer dry. But the wood does need to dry out if a freshly cut jin is the object. Sometimes the look we want on Buttonwoods is the stark white of the LS. Billy on the Florida Space Coast ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
One good thing about lurking is you get to see all the "heavy weights"
before you make a fool of yourself. This time I think I'll add my inflation adjusted 2 cents worth. I have tried both ways and prefer a LIGHT misting. There are two caveats here. First, since most of my LS work is on lantana, the bark is very light, so the "spider-webbing" which Dale rightly noted, is not very evident. Bougies also seem to be lighter than the buttonwoods and junipers. Second, the lantana has a soft wood. If the misting isn't done, the LS seems to bead up before being absorbed into the wood. This is the same problem that occurs when your soil is extra dry. I seem to get a better application if I mist lightly first. Remember, LS is a FUNGICIDE. It just happens to have bleaching effects. Apply the LS for its anti-fungal purposes. If you need to preserve the wood, apply wood hardener after the LS has done its job. Then when new fungus starts up, treat the area again. Apply the wood hardener again too if you need it (on lantana, I do). If you don't like the white, either tone it down as suggested or just wait a few weeks until it tones down naturally. If all you want is the white, there's got to be a better way than stinky LS! If you apply wood hardener heavily, it might give a slightly shiny surface. I haven't noticed it on my lantana since things soak in so deep, but it does appear very slightly on my bougies. I've never been bothered by this. If I remember correctly, Dale says that the cure to this is a light misting with water of the wood hardened area before it dries. Right, Dale? Try both ways and see what works for you. A light misting worked on my lantana better than no misting or a heavy misting. Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Mark Hill ] Subject: Applying Lime Sulfur Hi all; A few months ago I took a class at Jim Doyle's and started a nice JP Nana that looks great with a few jin where the lower branches used to be. Last weekend I dropped by Jims and bought a bottle of Lime Sulfur. When I brought it home I realized that I have no idea how to treat jin before applying the LS. Should I be wire brushing them ? One thing I've learned .... don't apply it in the house !! Any good tips ? Thanks Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
One good thing about lurking is you get to see all the "heavy weights"
before you make a fool of yourself. This time I think I'll add my inflation adjusted 2 cents worth. I have tried both ways and prefer a LIGHT misting. There are two caveats here. First, since most of my LS work is on lantana, the bark is very light, so the "spider-webbing" which Dale rightly noted, is not very evident. Bougies also seem to be lighter than the buttonwoods and junipers. Second, the lantana has a soft wood. If the misting isn't done, the LS seems to bead up before being absorbed into the wood. This is the same problem that occurs when your soil is extra dry. I seem to get a better application if I mist lightly first. Remember, LS is a FUNGICIDE. It just happens to have bleaching effects. Apply the LS for its anti-fungal purposes. If you need to preserve the wood, apply wood hardener after the LS has done its job. Then when new fungus starts up, treat the area again. Apply the wood hardener again too if you need it (on lantana, I do). If you don't like the white, either tone it down as suggested or just wait a few weeks until it tones down naturally. If all you want is the white, there's got to be a better way than stinky LS! If you apply wood hardener heavily, it might give a slightly shiny surface. I haven't noticed it on my lantana since things soak in so deep, but it does appear very slightly on my bougies. I've never been bothered by this. If I remember correctly, Dale says that the cure to this is a light misting with water of the wood hardened area before it dries. Right, Dale? Try both ways and see what works for you. A light misting worked on my lantana better than no misting or a heavy misting. Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Mark Hill ] Subject: Applying Lime Sulfur Hi all; A few months ago I took a class at Jim Doyle's and started a nice JP Nana that looks great with a few jin where the lower branches used to be. Last weekend I dropped by Jims and bought a bottle of Lime Sulfur. When I brought it home I realized that I have no idea how to treat jin before applying the LS. Should I be wire brushing them ? One thing I've learned .... don't apply it in the house !! Any good tips ? Thanks Mark Hill - Harrisburg PA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis" Subject: [IBC] Applying Lime Sulfur On 19 Oct 2004 at 19:03, dalecochoy wrote: I'll tell ya why we do it Jim and Kitsuni...... Cause Kimura said so. Well, he's NOT my fav bonsaiest, so that holds little water for me. ;-) Ha!, Well, I think his talent IS wonderful, but , STILL disagree on the LS thing. I GUESS I'm allowed? :) Anyway, whether you appreciate Mr. Kimura or not his statements still become gospel to most as they leave his lips. This is a common thing as I see it in bonsai the world, especially in the day of internet where many may not have the actual experience. Over the years I've noted many "gospels" on subjects from Kanuma, to Haydite to glazing pots underneath or inside. These master opinions often become gospel as they bounce around. Oh well, enough on that! :) Dale P.S. Oh, BTW, Jay, it wasn't me ( and don't know who it was) who suggested spritzing the minwax wood hardner very lightly after application started to dry to knock off the sheen, but, I certainly agree it would probably do the job fine.. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Hi Everybody
Enough observations and opinions have been posted on this forum regarding LS application. Can I dare say that I never liked the artificial appearence it renders to the wood. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. The other alternative is transparent and colourless wood paint/warnish (diluted with thinner) that besides preserving the wood, gives matte-finish gloss and at the same time enhances the natural colour and grain of the wood! Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh "The City Beautiful" ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Hi Everybody
Enough observations and opinions have been posted on this forum regarding LS application. Can I dare say that I never liked the artificial appearence it renders to the wood. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. The other alternative is transparent and colourless wood paint/warnish (diluted with thinner) that besides preserving the wood, gives matte-finish gloss and at the same time enhances the natural colour and grain of the wood! Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh "The City Beautiful" ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 22:32, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Hi Everybody Enough observations and opinions have been posted on this forum regarding LS application. Can I dare say that I never liked the artificial appearence it renders to the wood. In many instances I agree wholeheartedly. MOST trees when they weather go silvery gray, NOT bone white as LS imparts. And even "toned" with India ink (or better, wood stain) it tends to have a "painted on" look for a long time after application. Still, in the high desert of the American west you do occasionally find a juniper or two with starkly white bleached wood IN THE MOST EXPOSED AREAS. Elsewhere the wood grades to silver gray, even black, and is much more beautiful than bleached bonsai ever get Where 99.999% of LS-treated bonsai err is that the wood is a bleached white EVERYWHERE! That just doesn't happen. Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. The other alternative is transparent and colourless wood paint/warnish (diluted with thinner) that besides preserving the wood, gives matte-finish gloss and at the same time enhances the natural colour and grain of the wood! While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 22:32, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Hi Everybody Enough observations and opinions have been posted on this forum regarding LS application. Can I dare say that I never liked the artificial appearence it renders to the wood. In many instances I agree wholeheartedly. MOST trees when they weather go silvery gray, NOT bone white as LS imparts. And even "toned" with India ink (or better, wood stain) it tends to have a "painted on" look for a long time after application. Still, in the high desert of the American west you do occasionally find a juniper or two with starkly white bleached wood IN THE MOST EXPOSED AREAS. Elsewhere the wood grades to silver gray, even black, and is much more beautiful than bleached bonsai ever get Where 99.999% of LS-treated bonsai err is that the wood is a bleached white EVERYWHERE! That just doesn't happen. Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. The other alternative is transparent and colourless wood paint/warnish (diluted with thinner) that besides preserving the wood, gives matte-finish gloss and at the same time enhances the natural colour and grain of the wood! While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 22:32, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Hi Everybody Enough observations and opinions have been posted on this forum regarding LS application. Can I dare say that I never liked the artificial appearence it renders to the wood. In many instances I agree wholeheartedly. MOST trees when they weather go silvery gray, NOT bone white as LS imparts. And even "toned" with India ink (or better, wood stain) it tends to have a "painted on" look for a long time after application. Still, in the high desert of the American west you do occasionally find a juniper or two with starkly white bleached wood IN THE MOST EXPOSED AREAS. Elsewhere the wood grades to silver gray, even black, and is much more beautiful than bleached bonsai ever get Where 99.999% of LS-treated bonsai err is that the wood is a bleached white EVERYWHERE! That just doesn't happen. Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. The other alternative is transparent and colourless wood paint/warnish (diluted with thinner) that besides preserving the wood, gives matte-finish gloss and at the same time enhances the natural colour and grain of the wood! While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
--- Jim Lewis wrote:
While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
--- Jim Lewis wrote:
While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
--- Jim Lewis wrote:
While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ===== **** "Expectations are resentments under construction." Anne Lamott ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 13:17, Kitsune Miko wrote:
--- Jim Lewis wrote: the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 20 Oct 2004 at 13:17, Kitsune Miko wrote:
--- Jim Lewis wrote: the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune: I think we are comparing apples and oranges here. Based
upon solid botanical research on trees, Alex Shigo, in his seminal book, A New Tree Biology, has educated about the compartmentalization process trees go through when properly pruned by respecting their "branch collars". Shigo has shown that the application of paint and other tree "sealers" does more harm than good by disrupting the compartmentalization process necessary for a tree to maintain a healthy immune system and by, often as not, trapping destructive organisms behind the sealer and making it harder to discover and treat their presence. With bonsai we are dealing with much smaller cuts. But more important than this, we are talking about a true sealer which has penetrating qualities to preserve already dead wood. This is not treating a wound, per se, except in the broadest definition of the term. For this reason, I believe the practice of applying a penetrating marine grade sealer, such as GitRot or MinWax Wood Hardener, is a safe and acceptable practice. Alan Walker http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org --- Jim Lewis wrote: While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. -----Original Message----- From: Kitsune Miko Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Kitsune: I think we are comparing apples and oranges here. Based
upon solid botanical research on trees, Alex Shigo, in his seminal book, A New Tree Biology, has educated about the compartmentalization process trees go through when properly pruned by respecting their "branch collars". Shigo has shown that the application of paint and other tree "sealers" does more harm than good by disrupting the compartmentalization process necessary for a tree to maintain a healthy immune system and by, often as not, trapping destructive organisms behind the sealer and making it harder to discover and treat their presence. With bonsai we are dealing with much smaller cuts. But more important than this, we are talking about a true sealer which has penetrating qualities to preserve already dead wood. This is not treating a wound, per se, except in the broadest definition of the term. For this reason, I believe the practice of applying a penetrating marine grade sealer, such as GitRot or MinWax Wood Hardener, is a safe and acceptable practice. Alan Walker http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org --- Jim Lewis wrote: While I have a hard time believing that any antifungal agent (including lime sulfur) applied to dead wood on a bonsai will maintain antifungal properties for more than a few hours, or will affect the fungi that MAY attack the wood in any event, the varnish, or lacquer, or polyethylene, or wood hardener, will offer considerable protection because they seal the wood away from nasty thingies. -----Original Message----- From: Kitsune Miko Interestingly enough big tree people (arborists) will not seal dead wood because of locking in nasty thingies. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs
cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. As a Cornellian, I was taught that trees healed better if one left them alone. However, preserving a jin is different than lopping off a limb. In general, an exposed jin is not an entryway to disease, although it's a good idea to limit jin to species that have dead wood in nature. People who jin figs are just asking for trouble. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) I have these Nepalese statues that have been in my possession for over TWO YEARS. Then they began to have sawdust eruptions. Amazingly, they were infested with powderpost beetles, which can survive as larva in dry treated wood for two years or more. I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. |
Yeah, that's true, but that's for "big" trees that have limbs
cut, then are ignored and "never" looked at again. As a Cornellian, I was taught that trees healed better if one left them alone. However, preserving a jin is different than lopping off a limb. In general, an exposed jin is not an entryway to disease, although it's a good idea to limit jin to species that have dead wood in nature. People who jin figs are just asking for trouble. We, on the other hand, are constantly examining our trees and pampering them and will/would/should notice those nasty thingies if, perchance, we sealed one in. ;-) I have these Nepalese statues that have been in my possession for over TWO YEARS. Then they began to have sawdust eruptions. Amazingly, they were infested with powderpost beetles, which can survive as larva in dry treated wood for two years or more. I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. |
Nina Shishkoff wrote: I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. microwawes? anyway not all woods are suitables for jin .. many like pine decay very quickly.. nature shows us the way for hardy wood MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Nina Shishkoff wrote: I bagged the carvings and killed the beetles as they emerged. I think the little exit holes just add charm to the statues. microwawes? anyway not all woods are suitables for jin .. many like pine decay very quickly.. nature shows us the way for hardy wood MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Jim Lewis wrote: Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). I agree with you all these sophisticated plants we drool before exibitions are nit *reality* are sophistications of reality .. and often grotesque .. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. I use lemon( citric acid) and sea salt when I do small ones.. to keep a little branch ,instead of cutting it off as unnecessary I do NOT make jins as most of trees are far too young to do that ... and I do not do yamadori .. have no room to stock huge bonsais MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
Jim Lewis wrote: Lime sulfuring of deadwood is another of those slavish, follow- the-leader techniques of bonsai-dom. (IMHO) The UGLIEST lime sulfuring I see regularly down here is on bald cypress which NEVER have white bleached deadwood (except when sitting on bonsai tables). I agree with you all these sophisticated plants we drool before exibitions are nit *reality* are sophistications of reality .. and often grotesque .. Instead if systemic anti fungal paste is applied and after drying, is brushed off with a nylon bursh, it looks better and protects the wood from fungi. I use lemon( citric acid) and sea salt when I do small ones.. to keep a little branch ,instead of cutting it off as unnecessary I do NOT make jins as most of trees are far too young to do that ... and I do not do yamadori .. have no room to stock huge bonsais MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4 Private Mail : «»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«» |
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Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 22 Oct 2004 at 20:04, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? "MinWax" is a company name. The company makes wood stains varnishes, poly-whatever finishes, wood filler, and a number of other wood-finish related products. The MinWax product we speak about most often here is a "wood hardener." I have no idea what's in it; and it doesn't smell like anything _I_ recognize. ;-) The product is made to soak into and harden pulpy, rotted wood -- as in porches and decks. There is a similar product -- GitRot -- that is intended to do the same for rotted wood in boat hulls or decks, but it is made by another company. There may be other, similar, products. Neither of these, probably, is available in India, but you could do a web search for "wood hardener" and see what pops up. The other MinWax product(s) I find very useful are the broad-tip felt pens filled with wood stain of various kinds. I use these to disguise major branch cuts until they callus over and to color jin and shari on deciduous trees where the white look of lime sulfur is totally inappropriate. The "pickled oak" color even imparts a lightish color to bare wood. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On 22 Oct 2004 at 20:04, Anil Kaushik wrote:
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? "MinWax" is a company name. The company makes wood stains varnishes, poly-whatever finishes, wood filler, and a number of other wood-finish related products. The MinWax product we speak about most often here is a "wood hardener." I have no idea what's in it; and it doesn't smell like anything _I_ recognize. ;-) The product is made to soak into and harden pulpy, rotted wood -- as in porches and decks. There is a similar product -- GitRot -- that is intended to do the same for rotted wood in boat hulls or decks, but it is made by another company. There may be other, similar, products. Neither of these, probably, is available in India, but you could do a web search for "wood hardener" and see what pops up. The other MinWax product(s) I find very useful are the broad-tip felt pens filled with wood stain of various kinds. I use these to disguise major branch cuts until they callus over and to color jin and shari on deciduous trees where the white look of lime sulfur is totally inappropriate. The "pickled oak" color even imparts a lightish color to bare wood. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik It is a brand name wood hardener. Found in the paint department of most hardware stores here in the US. http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of
this compound? Anil Kaushik It is a brand name wood hardener. Found in the paint department of most hardware stores here in the US. http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Minwax is a trade name, best known for its wood stains. Its Wood Hardener
is one of its products, and that is the item under discussion in this thread. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anil Kaushik" To: Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 10:34 AM Subject: [IBC] Applying Lime Sulfur Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Minwax is a trade name, best known for its wood stains. Its Wood Hardener
is one of its products, and that is the item under discussion in this thread. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anil Kaushik" To: Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 10:34 AM Subject: [IBC] Applying Lime Sulfur Could you please tell as to what is *Minwax*? What is the generic name of this compound? Anil Kaushik Bonsai Club (India) Chandigarh " The City Beautiful" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" .......But as so many people have pointed out, Minwax is better for many reasons. Nina ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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