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24-08-2005 06:32 AM

More than one squash at a time?
 
Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

Bill


Nicole H 24-08-2005 07:26 AM

yes, the plant can support more than one. if you pick often, more will be
produced..... make sure to feed the plants... use a fertilizer w/a high
middle number... pick off any bad pieces so the plant isn't putting any
energy into it.... same with that big zucchini... big zukes are worthless
anyways...
wrote in message
...
Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example,
it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

Bill




Pat Kiewicz 24-08-2005 11:03 AM

said:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example,
it seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


It depends on the variety of squash. Some won't mature more than one
or two squash to maturity (and abort the rest) and others will set more.

As a general rule, the larger the mature squash, the smaller the number
the vine will set. And as fully grown zucchini are rather large, having one
or two maturing on the plant very likely *would* inhibit setting any more
fruit.

Johnny's Selected Seeds gives average yield per plant for winter squash
and pumpkin varieties in their catalog. (A commendable practice.)
Yields range from 8-10 squash per plant for a 'Sweet Dumpling' squash
(4" diameter) to 1-2 per plant for a Hubbard squash (12-15 pounds).

Summer squash are normally picked immature, so the plant keeps
producing more squash. But let one of those zucchinis escape and the
plant's happy, and puts its energy into maturing that one squash rather
than growing more.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)


Dwayne 24-08-2005 12:55 PM

Yes. That is why everyone around here has to lock their cars from the end
of July through the first of November. This is my cousins first year of
growing them and she planted a whole row. She is putting them in the trash
now, since everyone is locking their cars.

Dwayne

wrote in message
...
Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example,
it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

Bill




Sue 24-08-2005 03:58 PM

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.
Sue

Bill



Kathy 24-08-2005 05:25 PM

wrote in message
...
Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example,
it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

Bill


Zucchinis and crooknecks do if they're healthy. Which leads me to today's
problem: so do "cream of the crop" white acorn squashes. I had hoped for a
good harvest, but perhaps not quite THIS good. Does anybody have acorn
squash recipe ideas that don't involve sweets - brown sugar, maple syrup, or
honey?

I have one to share in exchange: Bake squashes as usual, split, and remove
seeds. Fry bulk sausage and drain excess fat. Along with sausage in the
remaining fat, saute chopped onions and apples. Pack the sausage/onion/apple
mixture into squash cavities. Makes a nice October supper. Maple syrup and
cinnamon go well but are optional.

Kathy



alan[remove][email protected] 24-08-2005 07:13 PM

Live on Long Island and planted on June 10th and some a week later.

Me too, same problem. The other day I saw 4 or 5 zuchinni on one
plant and today none of them looked good. They were really small,
maybe about 4 inches. I went out there the other day and thought some
kind of horrible worm was on the tip of one of then and even took a
picture to try to get online somehow but that turned out to be the
rotted flower. Then I thought it might be the chipmunks, so today I
put down crushed red pepper again. If they are rotting because there
are too many of them, then maybe the chipmunks are staying away
because of the first red pepper I put down.

I saw some blossom end rot on two of the green beefsteaks, so I'm
holding off on watering as much as I was. Actually, the sprinkler guy
was here to raise the sprinklers and he switched me from every other
day to every day for 15 minutes. Could that be why the zukes aren't
doing so well?

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:58:39 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.
Sue

Bill



Sue 25-08-2005 02:40 AM

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:13:27 -0400,
wrote:

Live on Long Island and planted on June 10th and some a week later.

Me too, same problem. The other day I saw 4 or 5 zuchinni on one
plant and today none of them looked good. They were really small,
maybe about 4 inches. I went out there the other day and thought some
kind of horrible worm was on the tip of one of then and even took a
picture to try to get online somehow but that turned out to be the
rotted flower. Then I thought it might be the chipmunks, so today I
put down crushed red pepper again. If they are rotting because there
are too many of them, then maybe the chipmunks are staying away
because of the first red pepper I put down.

I saw some blossom end rot on two of the green beefsteaks, so I'm
holding off on watering as much as I was. Actually, the sprinkler guy
was here to raise the sprinklers and he switched me from every other
day to every day for 15 minutes. Could that be why the zukes aren't
doing so well?


I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions. One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it. My
problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.
Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm
assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.
Sue
San Joaquin Valley, CA

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:58:39 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.
Sue

Bill



Dwayne 26-08-2005 11:47 AM


"Kathy" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example,
it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

Bill


Zucchinis and crooknecks do if they're healthy. Which leads me to today's
problem: so do "cream of the crop" white acorn squashes. I had hoped for a
good harvest, but perhaps not quite THIS good. Does anybody have acorn
squash recipe ideas that don't involve sweets - brown sugar, maple syrup,
or honey?


Take the top off like a pumpkin, remove the seeds, fill it with chopped
apples (other fruits will work also) and add some cinniman. Bake for 45
minutes and eat. Or fry some meat and onions, stuff the squash with it and
bake for 45 minutes and eat . Or cut them up and add to stew and soups. I
also cut them in to slices, microwave them till tender, spray they with "I
cant believe its not butter". Or Slice and fry them and eat. Or add them
to casseroles.

Dwayne

I have one to share in exchange: Bake squashes as usual, split, and remove
seeds. Fry bulk sausage and drain excess fat. Along with sausage in the
remaining fat, saute chopped onions and apples. Pack the
sausage/onion/apple mixture into squash cavities. Makes a nice October
supper. Maple syrup and cinnamon go well but are optional.

Kathy




alan[remove][email protected] 26-08-2005 04:41 PM

Sue, something has to be wrong someplace although mine are not pale or
bulbous loking...actually some do turn a little pale before they go.

Yesterday I decided to cut all the leaves off because the leaves are
huge and maybe drawing all the sun, water and nutrients. What the
hell, I've only had one zuchinni all summer, so what do I have to
lose? I also took some soil and mulch and put it ontop of the base of
the plant which appears to be not that imbedded. The leaves leaves
and chutes seem to be groing away from the root ball and there are
lots of straw looking things, maybe dea shoots coming out of the
ground.

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:40:04 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:13:27 -0400,
wrote:

Live on Long Island and planted on June 10th and some a week later.

Me too, same problem. The other day I saw 4 or 5 zuchinni on one
plant and today none of them looked good. They were really small,
maybe about 4 inches. I went out there the other day and thought some
kind of horrible worm was on the tip of one of then and even took a
picture to try to get online somehow but that turned out to be the
rotted flower. Then I thought it might be the chipmunks, so today I
put down crushed red pepper again. If they are rotting because there
are too many of them, then maybe the chipmunks are staying away
because of the first red pepper I put down.

I saw some blossom end rot on two of the green beefsteaks, so I'm
holding off on watering as much as I was. Actually, the sprinkler guy
was here to raise the sprinklers and he switched me from every other
day to every day for 15 minutes. Could that be why the zukes aren't
doing so well?


I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions. One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it. My
problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.
Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm
assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.
Sue
San Joaquin Valley, CA

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:58:39 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.
Sue

Bill



John Savage 26-08-2005 11:26 PM

Sue writes:
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.


Are you carrying out the pollination yourself? If the flower is not
properly pollinated the tiny fruit seems to rot or just grow stunted
before it falls. Use a small brush and perform the pollination yourself.

It could be that bees have better things to do with their time than
gather pollen from your plants, or the weather might be inclement so they
choose to stay home and just put their feet up.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)


Sue 27-08-2005 01:53 AM

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:26:20 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.


Are you carrying out the pollination yourself? If the flower is not
properly pollinated the tiny fruit seems to rot or just grow stunted
before it falls. Use a small brush and perform the pollination yourself.


One day I went out to do this (hand pollination) and had to battle the
bees to get to the flowers. I decided it didn't need doing *that*
day. I'll try it again tomorrow. I'm also going to take a deep
breath and hack away at my huge tomato bushes. Hardly any tomatoes
but lots of bush. I need to rethink the whole garden thing next year.
I have so little space that I crowd too much (tomatoes and bells), I
don't do enough prep work and I shoulda found this NG before I planted
in the spring.


It could be that bees have better things to do with their time than
gather pollen from your plants, or the weather might be inclement so they
choose to stay home and just put their feet up.


G Sounds like a good idea to me. I am sooo glad it's the weekend.
We had about 20 days of over 100 degrees. I don't know much about
bees - is that too hot for them to be active?
Sue


Sue 27-08-2005 01:56 AM

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 11:41:21 -0400,
wrote:

Sue, something has to be wrong someplace although mine are not pale or
bulbous loking...actually some do turn a little pale before they go.

Yesterday I decided to cut all the leaves off because the leaves are
huge and maybe drawing all the sun, water and nutrients. What the
hell, I've only had one zuchinni all summer, so what do I have to
lose? I also took some soil and mulch and put it ontop of the base of
the plant which appears to be not that imbedded. The leaves leaves
and chutes seem to be groing away from the root ball and there are
lots of straw looking things, maybe dea shoots coming out of the
ground.


Pretty much what I'm going to do to my tomatoes tomorrow. No canning
this year, darn it. Not enough fruit for the second year in a row.
I'm going to try the hand pollinating of the zucchini, too
Darn good thing my life doesn't depend on my garden - only my
self-esteem. :o(
Sue


On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:40:04 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:13:27 -0400,
wrote:

Live on Long Island and planted on June 10th and some a week later.

Me too, same problem. The other day I saw 4 or 5 zuchinni on one
plant and today none of them looked good. They were really small,
maybe about 4 inches. I went out there the other day and thought some
kind of horrible worm was on the tip of one of then and even took a
picture to try to get online somehow but that turned out to be the
rotted flower. Then I thought it might be the chipmunks, so today I
put down crushed red pepper again. If they are rotting because there
are too many of them, then maybe the chipmunks are staying away
because of the first red pepper I put down.

I saw some blossom end rot on two of the green beefsteaks, so I'm
holding off on watering as much as I was. Actually, the sprinkler guy
was here to raise the sprinklers and he switched me from every other
day to every day for 15 minutes. Could that be why the zukes aren't
doing so well?


I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions. One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it. My
problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.
Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm
assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.
Sue
San Joaquin Valley, CA

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 14:58:39 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.
Sue

Bill



Pat Kiewicz 27-08-2005 12:16 PM

Dwayne said:

Kathy" wrote

Does anybody have acorn
squash recipe ideas that don't involve sweets - brown sugar, maple syrup,
or honey?


Take the top off like a pumpkin, remove the seeds, fill it with chopped
apples (other fruits will work also) and add some cinniman. Bake for 45
minutes and eat. Or fry some meat and onions, stuff the squash with it and
bake for 45 minutes and eat . Or cut them up and add to stew and soups.
I also cut them in to slices, microwave them till tender, spray they with "I
cant believe its not butter". Or Slice and fry them and eat. Or add them
to casseroles.

Bake them with a bit of butter and season with black pepper. Add a dash of
cayenne and a topping of sauteed onions to dress them up.

Puree cooked, peeled squash with a small portion of sauteed onions.
Season with nutmeg and pepper (perhaps a dash of cayenne). Add
cream or milk (up to half the total, though I prefer much less). Serve
as a hot or cold soup.

Use pureed squash as an ingredient in muffins, pancakes or waffles,
replacing some of the liquid and oil and cutting out some of the sugar.
Season with cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Chopped walnuts go well
with the squash. (A family favorite is multigrain pumpkin waffles,
served with homemade, reduced-sugar spiced apple jelly. The flour
mix includes a variety of whole-grain flours and defatted soy flour.)

The most unusual way I've had squash is wrapped up corn tortillas
and cooked as enchildas (with red chile sauce).

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)


Pat Kiewicz 27-08-2005 12:16 PM

Sue said:

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:26:20 GMT, John Savage
wrote:


It could be that bees have better things to do with their time than
gather pollen from your plants, or the weather might be inclement so they
choose to stay home and just put their feet up.


G Sounds like a good idea to me. I am sooo glad it's the weekend.
We had about 20 days of over 100 degrees. I don't know much about
bees - is that too hot for them to be active?


No, but your weather was too hot for your tomatoes to be setting
fruit. (Which you commented on earlier in this thread.) I had
a short lull in ripening fruit on my tomato plants which is probably
connected to a stretch of very hot weather earlier this summer.

Squash will abort fruit (sometimes without the flower even opening) when
they are stressed (by fruit load, pests, or environmental circumstances).

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)


Sue 27-08-2005 06:13 PM

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 06:16:49 -0500, (Pat
Kiewicz) wrote:

Sue said:

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:26:20 GMT, John Savage
wrote:


It could be that bees have better things to do with their time than
gather pollen from your plants, or the weather might be inclement so they
choose to stay home and just put their feet up.


G Sounds like a good idea to me. I am sooo glad it's the weekend.
We had about 20 days of over 100 degrees. I don't know much about
bees - is that too hot for them to be active?


No, but your weather was too hot for your tomatoes to be setting
fruit. (Which you commented on earlier in this thread.)


I understand that from an earlier thread. I have one tomato plant
that hasn't gotten outrageously big like the others and it's had more
tomatoes than the others despite the heat. I don't know why this one
particular one didn't branch out all over the place as the others did.

I had
a short lull in ripening fruit on my tomato plants which is probably
connected to a stretch of very hot weather earlier this summer.

Squash will abort fruit (sometimes without the flower even opening) when
they are stressed (by fruit load, pests, or environmental circumstances).


I did some hand pollinating this morning with a paint brush and
noticed that some of the blossoms (the females) had lots of ants in
them. Would those be in the pest category?
I'm awfully discouraged with this gardening business.
Sue


Pat Kiewicz 28-08-2005 11:35 AM

Sue said:

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 06:16:49 -0500, (Pat
Kiewicz) wrote:
Squash will abort fruit (sometimes without the flower even opening) when
they are stressed (by fruit load, pests, or environmental circumstances).


I did some hand pollinating this morning with a paint brush and
noticed that some of the blossoms (the females) had lots of ants in
them. Would those be in the pest category?


Ants? Not usually a pest on squash. (Ants do sometimes become pest
when they nibble soft fruits like raspberries in my garden.) Cucumber
beetles, squash vine borers, and squash bugs are more the pests I had
in mind. Aphids can be a problem because they can carry mosaic virus.
(Unfortunately, this has been a bad year for virus in Michigan.)

I'm awfully discouraged with this gardening business.


There's always next year...though every year it's always something.

Last year I lost virtually my whole pepper crop (to maggots), but the
corn was great. This year I've got ahead of the pepper maggots and
the corn is awful (one planting every ear but one was smutty).

If you haven't done so already, get a soil test. Find out if you have an
obvious shortage in something. (My first test showed that the soil was
low in potassium and high in phosphorous, so the typical 'balanced'
fertilizers weren't really appropriate.)

Work in some compost this fall. Maybe plant some garlic. Read
some gardening books. (_Square Foot Gardening_ is good for
beginners, though I think Mel Bartholomew is a bit optimistic on
his spacings.)

Take credit for your successes and for anything else blame the weather!
Too much rain, not enough rain, rain at the wrong time, too hot,
not hot enough--there's always some reason to fault it!

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)


John Savage 29-08-2005 12:01 AM

Sue writes:
I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions.


That is what happens when they have not been pollinated. The flowers are
big enough that you can do it by hand: on a morning that both male and
female flowers are open, break off the male flower, tear away the petals
and rub the male flower onto the centre (stigma) inside each of the open
female flowers. Do this while the plant is still wet with dew.

One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it.


It is easy to tell when they are not getting enough water: the leaves
droop alarmingly in the midday heat!

My problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.


Sprinklers? Sprinklers are a recipe for mildew on curcubits. Try not to
wet the leaves when you water them. A dripper system is necessary for
this. You can build up a wall around the centre of the plant so that
water from the hose is contained and soaks in, or half bury a tin can
open at both ends and direct water into this so that it soaks into the
soil. Just take care to now wet any leaves.

Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm


They should be okay. BUT ... if any zucchini develops with the free
end noticeably thinner than the stem end then it will be bitter tasting
and you may as well break it off and discard it before it wastes energy
from the plant.

assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.


IME zucchinis grow much better when you plant the seed directly, rather
than transplanted from seedlings.

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


Zucchinis are melt-in-your-mouth tasty if you pick them one or two DAYS
after their open-flower stage (yes, break off the flower!), rather than
leaving them to grow for WEEKS. Pick them small and the plant will produce
dozens more; leave any to grow large and you will have far fewer and they
are not anywhere near as tasty.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)


Sue 29-08-2005 02:17 AM

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 23:01:05 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions.


That is what happens when they have not been pollinated. The flowers are
big enough that you can do it by hand: on a morning that both male and
female flowers are open, break off the male flower, tear away the petals
and rub the male flower onto the centre (stigma) inside each of the open
female flowers. Do this while the plant is still wet with dew.


I've used a paint brush as was suggested by someone else.


One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it.


It is easy to tell when they are not getting enough water: the leaves
droop alarmingly in the midday heat!


Some book I read said they need about 4 gallons a week.


My problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.


Sprinklers? Sprinklers are a recipe for mildew on curcubits.


Curcubits??? As far as I can tell I don't have mildew.

Try not to
wet the leaves when you water them. A dripper system is necessary for
this. You can build up a wall around the centre of the plant so that
water from the hose is contained and soaks in, or half bury a tin can
open at both ends and direct water into this so that it soaks into the
soil. Just take care to now wet any leaves.


I've just been using a slow running hose now. Maybe drip next year.


Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm


They should be okay. BUT ... if any zucchini develops with the free
end noticeably thinner than the stem end then it will be bitter tasting
and you may as well break it off and discard it before it wastes energy
from the plant.


Hmmm. I didn't know that. Not had that problem. Last year the
blossom ends weren't closing.


assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.


IME zucchinis grow much better when you plant the seed directly, rather
than transplanted from seedlings.


Were I planting lots of them I might do this. However, my limit
(space wise) is four or five.


Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


Zucchinis are melt-in-your-mouth tasty if you pick them one or two DAYS
after their open-flower stage (yes, break off the flower!), rather than
leaving them to grow for WEEKS.


Break off the flower when it doesn't open anymore? I didn't know that
either. My ignorance is obviously huge. How can you keep track of
which ones are ready to have the flowers picked off?

Pick them small and the plant will produce
dozens more;


How small would you say?

leave any to grow large and you will have far fewer and they
are not anywhere near as tasty.


Sometimes they hide and get away from me. :o(
Sue


Sue 29-08-2005 02:17 AM

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 23:01:05 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions.


That is what happens when they have not been pollinated. The flowers are
big enough that you can do it by hand: on a morning that both male and
female flowers are open, break off the male flower, tear away the petals
and rub the male flower onto the centre (stigma) inside each of the open
female flowers. Do this while the plant is still wet with dew.

One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it.


It is easy to tell when they are not getting enough water: the leaves
droop alarmingly in the midday heat!

My problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.


Sprinklers? Sprinklers are a recipe for mildew on curcubits. Try not to
wet the leaves when you water them. A dripper system is necessary for
this. You can build up a wall around the centre of the plant so that
water from the hose is contained and soaks in, or half bury a tin can
open at both ends and direct water into this so that it soaks into the
soil. Just take care to now wet any leaves.

Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm


They should be okay. BUT ... if any zucchini develops with the free
end noticeably thinner than the stem end then it will be bitter tasting
and you may as well break it off and discard it before it wastes energy
from the plant.

assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.


IME zucchinis grow much better when you plant the seed directly, rather
than transplanted from seedlings.

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


Zucchinis are melt-in-your-mouth tasty if you pick them one or two DAYS
after their open-flower stage (yes, break off the flower!), rather than
leaving them to grow for WEEKS. Pick them small and the plant will produce
dozens more; leave any to grow large and you will have far fewer and they
are not anywhere near as tasty.


Oh, thanks a lot for the advice.
Sue


Sue 29-08-2005 02:22 AM

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 05:35:54 -0500, (Pat
Kiewicz) wrote:

Sue said:

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 06:16:49 -0500,
(Pat
Kiewicz) wrote:
Squash will abort fruit (sometimes without the flower even opening) when
they are stressed (by fruit load, pests, or environmental circumstances).


I did some hand pollinating this morning with a paint brush and
noticed that some of the blossoms (the females) had lots of ants in
them. Would those be in the pest category?


Ants? Not usually a pest on squash. (Ants do sometimes become pest
when they nibble soft fruits like raspberries in my garden.) Cucumber
beetles, squash vine borers, and squash bugs are more the pests I had
in mind. Aphids can be a problem because they can carry mosaic virus.
(Unfortunately, this has been a bad year for virus in Michigan.)

I'm awfully discouraged with this gardening business.


There's always next year...though every year it's always something.


Yep. My gentleman friend's hobby is shooting trap. He only has to
wait a week whenever he doesn't do well.


Last year I lost virtually my whole pepper crop (to maggots), but the
corn was great. This year I've got ahead of the pepper maggots and
the corn is awful (one planting every ear but one was smutty).


I mentioned in some post a couple of weeks ago that the only year I
grew corn it was overwhelmed with ants. I never tried again because I
had no idea how to prevent them.


If you haven't done so already, get a soil test. Find out if you have an
obvious shortage in something. (My first test showed that the soil was
low in potassium and high in phosphorous, so the typical 'balanced'
fertilizers weren't really appropriate.)


I've never done that and know that I should. Where does one get a
test kit. I've never seen one but never really looked either. We
have no nursery here which is why my gardening supplies come from
Wal*Mart.


Work in some compost this fall. Maybe plant some garlic. Read
some gardening books. (_Square Foot Gardening_ is good for
beginners, though I think Mel Bartholomew is a bit optimistic on
his spacings.)


You answered my question before I asked. I was wondering what a good
gardening book might be. I have Sunset and some other, but they don't
really go into problems or details. Too general.


Take credit for your successes and for anything else blame the weather!
Too much rain, not enough rain, rain at the wrong time, too hot,
not hot enough--there's always some reason to fault it!


G Good plan. Thanks for your help.
Sue


Pat Kiewicz 29-08-2005 11:29 AM

Sue said:

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 05:35:54 -0500, (Pat
Kiewicz) wrote:


If you haven't done so already, get a soil test. Find out if you have an
obvious shortage in something. (My first test showed that the soil was
low in potassium and high in phosphorous, so the typical 'balanced'
fertilizers weren't really appropriate.)


I've never done that and know that I should. Where does one get a
test kit. I've never seen one but never really looked either. We
have no nursery here which is why my gardening supplies come from
Wal*Mart.


The in the US, look to your state cooperative extension service for soil
testing. You can check the phone book (in the County Government
section) to see if your county has an extension service office, or use
the following web site to look for your state soil testing lab (this site
includes links to soil labs in Nova Scotia and Ontario Canada, too):

http://www.motherearthnews.com/directory/soil_test/

You order a test kit, which will come with instructions, which you follow
to gather you soil sample. Mail it back and wait for results and
recommendations.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)


alan[remove][email protected] 29-08-2005 05:47 PM

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 23:01:05 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
I'd asked about this rot business here awhile back. Mine get about an
inch or two, turn yellow and rot. Lots of suggestions.


That is what happens when they have not been pollinated. The flowers are
big enough that you can do it by hand: on a morning that both male and
female flowers are open, break off the male flower, tear away the petals
and rub the male flower onto the centre (stigma) inside each of the open
female flowers. Do this while the plant is still wet with dew.

One was that
they may not be getting enough water so I'm trying to increase it.


It is easy to tell when they are not getting enough water: the leaves
droop alarmingly in the midday heat!

My problem is disorganization - I just don't have a schedule. I did
but my backyard auto sprinkler system died to it's up to me.


Sprinklers? Sprinklers are a recipe for mildew on curcubits. Try not to
wet the leaves when you water them. A dripper system is necessary for
this. You can build up a wall around the centre of the plant so that
water from the hose is contained and soaks in, or half bury a tin can
open at both ends and direct water into this so that it soaks into the
soil. Just take care to now wet any leaves.

Another couple of things I've noticed with the zucchini that are
actually maturing (and I ought to start another thread about this, I
suppose) is that they are quite pale and some are bulbous looking -
almost like gourds. I've never had either of these problems. I'm


They should be okay. BUT ... if any zucchini develops with the free
end noticeably thinner than the stem end then it will be bitter tasting
and you may as well break it off and discard it before it wastes energy
from the plant.

assuming that I've planted the same type as usual - cheapies from
Wal*Mart.


IME zucchinis grow much better when you plant the seed directly, rather
than transplanted from seedlings.

John, can you start them from seeds on Long Island? Are you living
in a much warmer place that I am? If you are planting seeds, when do
you have to start them? It may be too cold here for that.

Did you enter your location on the map at
http://myguestmap.lorca.eti.br/guest...alan&locale=en ?

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.


Zucchinis are melt-in-your-mouth tasty if you pick them one or two DAYS
after their open-flower stage (yes, break off the flower!), rather than
leaving them to grow for WEEKS. Pick them small and the plant will produce
dozens more; leave any to grow large and you will have far fewer and they
are not anywhere near as tasty.



alan[remove][email protected] 29-08-2005 05:49 PM

Sue, where are you located? Did you put your name and location on the
map at
http://myguestmap.lorca.eti.br/guest...alan&locale=en ?

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 00:53:29 GMT, Sue wrote:

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:26:20 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 05:32:14 GMT, wrote:

Does a squash plant support more than one squash at a time? For example, it
seems that while a big zucchini is growing, several incipient ones grow
poorly or even rot. If I remove the big zucchini, another one starts to
grow.

I have that rotting problem, too. Sigh.


Are you carrying out the pollination yourself? If the flower is not
properly pollinated the tiny fruit seems to rot or just grow stunted
before it falls. Use a small brush and perform the pollination yourself.


One day I went out to do this (hand pollination) and had to battle the
bees to get to the flowers. I decided it didn't need doing *that*
day. I'll try it again tomorrow. I'm also going to take a deep
breath and hack away at my huge tomato bushes. Hardly any tomatoes
but lots of bush. I need to rethink the whole garden thing next year.
I have so little space that I crowd too much (tomatoes and bells), I
don't do enough prep work and I shoulda found this NG before I planted
in the spring.


It could be that bees have better things to do with their time than
gather pollen from your plants, or the weather might be inclement so they
choose to stay home and just put their feet up.


G Sounds like a good idea to me. I am sooo glad it's the weekend.
We had about 20 days of over 100 degrees. I don't know much about
bees - is that too hot for them to be active?
Sue



John Savage 30-08-2005 11:52 PM

Sue writes:
Some book I read said they need about 4 gallons a week.


That depends on how fast the soil drains, day temperatures, whether it's
windy, etc. A hot wind really dries out the plant. Poke your finger into
the soil, if it's damp then the plant doesn't need watering that day.

Sprinklers? Sprinklers are a recipe for mildew on curcubits.

Curcubits??? As far as I can tell I don't have mildew.


Most gardeners find that it's a progressive takeover by mildew that ends
the life of zucchini plants. The leaves turn white with mildew, but the
plant valiantly struggles on, bearing new flowers right to the last.

I've just been using a slow running hose now. Maybe drip next year.


A slow hose is fine. I pictured a sprinkler dowsing the whole plant.

Zucchinis are melt-in-your-mouth tasty if you pick them one or two DAYS
after their open-flower stage (yes, break off the flower!), rather than
leaving them to grow for WEEKS.


Break off the flower when it doesn't open anymore? I didn't know that
either. My ignorance is obviously huge. How can you keep track of
which ones are ready to have the flowers picked off?


Let's back up a bit. The zucchini fruit can be picked and cooked the day
its flower opens or any days later. If you pick them at the just-flowered
stage it really doesn't matter whether that particular flower has been
pollinated or not: by the time the plant realizes that that flower has
not been pollinated and prepares to abort that tiny fruit it discovers IT
IS TOO LATE---you've already picked and eaten the youngster! It is only
if you want the fruit to develop to a bigger size that you'll need to
pollinate it. In this regard the zucchini stands out from all others in
the curcubit family--you can harvest a good crop from your plants even if
you don't have bees and don't hand pollinate--provided you pick the tiny
zucchinis just after the flower has finished. The flower opens in the
early morning and lasts just one day, by the next day that flower is limp
and starting to wither. That's the best stage to harvest it, and after
a few minutes steaming add a dash of butter and a sprinkling of pepper!
Did you know the open flower is edible, too? I've seen mention of cooking
it in batter, but we'd just throw the flower over the fence for our pet
sheep. Shake any bees out first.

Pick them small and the plant will produce
dozens more;


How small would you say?


The day after the flower has fully opened. At this stage they are about
the length of your index finger. Maybe leave it for one more day, try it
and see.

leave any to grow large and you will have far fewer and they
are not anywhere near as tasty.


Sometimes they hide and get away from me. :o(


Yes, they are well camouflaged for concealment among the foliage. Pick
any big ones immediately you spy them, to encourage the plant to go on
producing more flowers. Best to note where the flowers are each day and
search that spot the following day. The yellow flowers themselves are
definitely not camouflaged!

The plants grow quickly and start bearing early in their life, so they
don't need anywhere near the long growing season of pumpkins, etc., where
you have to let the fruit reach maturity. You can probably stagger some
plantings throughout summer.

I'm in Australia.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)



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