Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old 07-07-2009, 10:26 AM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Default Reshaping an old cherry tree

Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can reshape a very old (Victorian I guess), very tall, sweet cherry tree - or alternatively propagate from it. It's too tall to pick the cherries without a hoist (which I don't have) and too tall to try airlayering as a means of propagation. I would like to try to persuade the tree to throw out some new shoots below the current ones and above the rootstock. Is there any way of persuading the tree to do this?

I would also like to propagate from it. I have taken some softwood cuttings now - and will try to graft on to rootstocks in a few weeks. Any tips as to the best rootstocks and the best way of getting the cuttings to take (e.g. should they have bottom heat, be in a cloche, etc)?
Thanks!

  #2   Report Post  
Old 08-07-2009, 09:08 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Nov 2008
Posts: 110
Default Reshaping an old cherry tree

Ali_R wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can reshape a very old
(Victorian I guess), very tall, sweet cherry tree - or alternatively
propagate from it. It's too tall to pick the cherries without a hoist
(which I don't have) and too tall to try airlayering as a means of
propagation. I would like to try to persuade the tree to throw out some
new shoots below the current ones and above the rootstock. Is there any
way of persuading the tree to do this?


I would go with the propagation choice. You can progressively prune
down this big tree over several seasons, but it's root structure will
continue to put out lots of growth, thus an ongoing pruning job.

I would also like to propagate from it. I have taken some softwood
cuttings now - and will try to graft on to rootstocks in a few weeks.
Any tips as to the best rootstocks and the best way of getting the
cuttings to take (e.g. should they have bottom heat, be in a cloche,
etc)?
Thanks!


There are several good dwarfing cherry rootstocks. Cherries are
commonly grafted onto Mazzard or Mahaleb rootstocks. Another choice
would be something in the Gisella family. Krymsk 5 and 6 are newer
Russian rootstocks, the later of these produces a dwarfing of 75%.

You can do a bud graft in July or August. I would recommend a chip
bud graft as the most reliable and easy to do. Less commonly done
are whip and tongue grafts in the Spring of Cherry scion wood. Be
aware that in chip budding, the fresher the buds, the better the
chances of a successful graft. I would keep the grafted tree in
a shady spot for a few weeks until the graft calouses over. You
can then either plant the tree, or better yet, keep it in a pot
in a protected place for planting the following year. You want to
initially keep the graft union warm for calusing, but keeping the
entire tree that way might encourage the rootstock to come out of
dormancy prematurely, which will reduce the chances of a successful
graft.

Sherwin






  #3   Report Post  
Old 08-07-2009, 09:35 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Nov 2008
Posts: 110
Default Reshaping an old cherry tree

sherwin dubren wrote:


You can do a bud graft in July or August. I would recommend a chip
bud graft as the most reliable and easy to do. Less commonly done
are whip and tongue grafts in the Spring of Cherry scion wood. Be
aware that in chip budding, the fresher the buds, the better the
chances of a successful graft. I would keep the grafted tree in
a shady spot for a few weeks until the graft calouses over. You
can then either plant the tree, or better yet, keep it in a pot
in a protected place for planting the following year. You want to
initially keep the graft union warm for calusing, but keeping the
entire tree that way might encourage the rootstock to come out of
dormancy prematurely, which will reduce the chances of a successful
graft.

Sherwin


I may have misled you on the after care of the graft. I do most of
my grafts in the Spring with whip and tongue and my suggestions on
keeping the rootstock dormant were more for that kind of graft.
For bud grafting, you want the rootstock to be active and leafed
out. You still should follow the other suggestions about protecting
the graft and planting the tree out.

I should not do these replies late at night when my thinking is not
as clear as I would like it to be.

Sherwin






  #4   Report Post  
Old 22-07-2009, 08:58 AM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sherwin dubren View Post
sherwin dubren wrote:


You can do a bud graft in July or August. I would recommend a chip
bud graft as the most reliable and easy to do. Less commonly done
are whip and tongue grafts in the Spring of Cherry scion wood. Be
aware that in chip budding, the fresher the buds, the better the
chances of a successful graft. I would keep the grafted tree in
a shady spot for a few weeks until the graft calouses over. You
can then either plant the tree, or better yet, keep it in a pot
in a protected place for planting the following year. You want to
initially keep the graft union warm for calusing, but keeping the
entire tree that way might encourage the rootstock to come out of
dormancy prematurely, which will reduce the chances of a successful
graft.

Sherwin


I may have misled you on the after care of the graft. I do most of
my grafts in the Spring with whip and tongue and my suggestions on
keeping the rootstock dormant were more for that kind of graft.
For bud grafting, you want the rootstock to be active and leafed
out. You still should follow the other suggestions about protecting
the graft and planting the tree out.

I should not do these replies late at night when my thinking is not
as clear as I would like it to be.

Sherwin





Thanks for these helpful suggestions - do you know where I can buy these rootstocks in the UK - I have not found any obvious sources on the web
  #5   Report Post  
Old 22-07-2009, 03:01 PM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Aug 2008
Posts: 21
Default

Be brave and cut the top off the tree. Do it in spring when the sap has started rising to prevent silver leaf. You can often see old trees being regerated like this. You will get new growths around and just below the cut.
__________________
John
http://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk


  #6   Report Post  
Old 01-08-2009, 05:58 AM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hedgeman View Post
Be brave and cut the top off the tree. Do it in spring when the sap has started rising to prevent silver leaf. You can often see old trees being regerated like this. You will get new growths around and just below the cut.
Thanks - I'll try in the Spring. Watch this space!


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
[IBC] For old, Old, OLD members ;-) Bill Neff Bonsai 3 18-05-2005 04:28 AM
[IBC] For old, Old, OLD members ;-) Jim Lewis Bonsai 1 17-05-2005 09:14 PM
HELP: Need advice on "cloning" old cherry tree??? JS United Kingdom 1 15-05-2003 11:20 AM
HELP: Need advice on "cloning" old cherry tree??? Joe Jamies Gardening 2 06-05-2003 02:20 AM
Need advice on "cloning" old cherry tree??? Gyve Turquoise United Kingdom 0 05-05-2003 10:08 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:50 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2021 GardenBanter.co.uk.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Gardening"

 

Copyright © 2017