Mulching materials
I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - newspapers - straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good source near Boston?) - cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. Thanks! Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 -- "What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works." - Chris Malcolm |
Mulching materials
In article
, Peppermint Patootie wrote: I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - newspapers Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first. - straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good source near Boston?) Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle (dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil. - cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder "wood often contains potentially fungitoxic compounds, which are deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins, making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for high-quality garden furnishings, etc." http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro ts.htm If you plan on feeding it to your soil, I'd find something else. tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your mulch. Thanks! Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition) (Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides) by Stu Campbell http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref= sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1 p.39 Compostable Material Average C/N Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25 Grass clippings ................................ 25 Leguminous plants (peas, beans,soybeans) ............................. 15 Manure with bedding ........................... 23 Manure ....................................... 15 Oak leaves .................................... 50 Pine needles .............................. 60-100 Sawdust................................. 150-500 Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100 Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25 Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7 Alfalfa ................................................ 12 Newspaper........................................ 175 ------- http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios) All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C) combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile. Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens." Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios Browns = High Carbon C:N Ashes, wood 25:1 Cardboard, shredded 350:1 Corn stalks 75:1 Fruit waste 35:1 Leaves 60:1 Newspaper, shredded 175:1 Peanut shells 35:1 Pine needles 80:1 Sawdust 325:1 Straw 75:1 Wood chips 400:1 Greens = High Nitrogen C:N Alfalfa 12:1 Clover 23:1 Coffee grounds 20:1 Food waste 20:1 Garden waste 30:1 Grass clippings 20:1 Hay 25:1 Manures 15:1 Seaweed 19:1 Vegetable scraps 25:1 Weeds 30:1 Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry leaves or wood chips. Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot compost pile here. ----------- http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html GREEN (Nitrogen) BROWN (Carbon) Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1 Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots! Leaves** 60-80:1 One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially shredded or broken down (leaf mulch). Food Scraps** 17:1 Vegetable Scraps** 25:1 Straw, Hay** 90:1 The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown. Coffee Grounds** 25:1 Sawdust** 500:1 Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips. Use very sparingly! Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1 Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source if necessary. Woody chips & twigs** 700:1 Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile. Fresh Weeds** 20:1 Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C. Shredded Newspaper** 175:1 Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and soak in water for fast breakdown. Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1 Nut shells** 35:1 Rotted Manure** 20:1 Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds that can sprout in the bin. Pine Needles** 80:1 Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly. Humus (soil)** 10:1 This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to "seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top. Corn Stalks** 60:1 Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down. Seaweed** 19:1 Peat Moss** 58:1 Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler. General Garden Waste** 30:1 Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with leaves NOTE The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary according to source, researcher or scientist! "Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden, And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind deeds." - Longfellow 1807*1882 Taxes Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where the money went Are you better off than you were 30 years ago? 10 years ago? 1 year ago? Thank Reaganomics/Thatcherism, a.k.a. Voodoo economics :O( -- - Billy Dept. of Defense budget: $663.8 billion Dept. of Health and Human Services budget: $78.4 billion Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. This world in arms is not spending money alone. It is spending the sweat of its laborers, the genius of its scientists, the hopes of its children. This is not a way of life at all in any true sense. Under the clouds of war, it is humanity hanging on a cross of iron. - Dwight D. Eisenhower, 16 April 1953 |
Mulching materials
On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 15:37:00 -0400, Peppermint Patootie wrote:
I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - newspapers - straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good source near Boston?) - cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. Thanks! Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 I've been using Mad Mics Mulch, it's based on horse bedding and manure. I had an incredible tomato crop last year. I got mine from Dr Mulch in Westford, the closest distributor to you is probably Cambridge Bark and Loam in Cambridge. http://www.madmics.com/ |
Mulching materials
In article ,
General Schvantzkoph wrote: I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. Thanks! Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 I've been using Mad Mics Mulch, it's based on horse bedding and manure. I had an incredible tomato crop last year. I got mine from Dr Mulch in Westford, the closest distributor to you is probably Cambridge Bark and Loam in Cambridge. http://www.madmics.com/ Thanks! I'll look into it. Priscilla -- "What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works." - Chris Malcolm |
Mulching materials
In article
, Billy wrote: In article , Peppermint Patootie wrote: I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - newspapers Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first. - straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good source near Boston?) Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle (dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil. Good idea. I may not get the straw until after I'm planted, though. - cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder "wood often contains potentially fungitoxic compounds, which are deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins, making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for high-quality garden furnishings, etc." http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro ts.htm I have no idea what this means. If you plan on feeding it to your soil, I'd find something else. OK. In other words, it would hurt my plants or make the veggies toxic? tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your mulch. Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch. Thanks! Priscilla The information below seems to be about composting. I have a copy of _Let It Rot_. I have a compost heap, but what I'm asking about is mulch. There are things I might use for mulch that I'd never put in my compost heap: like landscape fabric, for instance. Thanks. Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition) (Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides) by Stu Campbell http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref= sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1 p.39 Compostable Material Average C/N Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25 Grass clippings ................................ 25 Leguminous plants (peas, beans,soybeans) ............................. 15 Manure with bedding ........................... 23 Manure ....................................... 15 Oak leaves .................................... 50 Pine needles .............................. 60-100 Sawdust................................. 150-500 Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100 Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25 Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7 Alfalfa ................................................ 12 Newspaper........................................ 175 ------- http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios) All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C) combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile. Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens." Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios Browns = High Carbon C:N Ashes, wood 25:1 Cardboard, shredded 350:1 Corn stalks 75:1 Fruit waste 35:1 Leaves 60:1 Newspaper, shredded 175:1 Peanut shells 35:1 Pine needles 80:1 Sawdust 325:1 Straw 75:1 Wood chips 400:1 Greens = High Nitrogen C:N Alfalfa 12:1 Clover 23:1 Coffee grounds 20:1 Food waste 20:1 Garden waste 30:1 Grass clippings 20:1 Hay 25:1 Manures 15:1 Seaweed 19:1 Vegetable scraps 25:1 Weeds 30:1 Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry leaves or wood chips. Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot compost pile here. ----------- http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html GREEN (Nitrogen) BROWN (Carbon) Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1 Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots! Leaves** 60-80:1 One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially shredded or broken down (leaf mulch). Food Scraps** 17:1 Vegetable Scraps** 25:1 Straw, Hay** 90:1 The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown. Coffee Grounds** 25:1 Sawdust** 500:1 Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips. Use very sparingly! Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1 Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source if necessary. Woody chips & twigs** 700:1 Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile. Fresh Weeds** 20:1 Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C. Shredded Newspaper** 175:1 Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and soak in water for fast breakdown. Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1 Nut shells** 35:1 Rotted Manure** 20:1 Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds that can sprout in the bin. Pine Needles** 80:1 Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly. Humus (soil)** 10:1 This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to "seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top. Corn Stalks** 60:1 Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down. Seaweed** 19:1 Peat Moss** 58:1 Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler. General Garden Waste** 30:1 Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with leaves NOTE The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary according to source, researcher or scientist! "Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden, And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind deeds." - Longfellow 1807*1882 Taxes Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where the money went Are you better off than you were 30 years ago? 10 years ago? 1 year ago? Thank Reaganomics/Thatcherism, a.k.a. Voodoo economics :O( -- "What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works." - Chris Malcolm |
Mulching materials
In article
, Peppermint Patootie wrote: In article , Billy wrote: In article , Peppermint Patootie wrote: I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - newspapers Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first. - straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good source near Boston?) Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle (dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil. Good idea. I may not get the straw until after I'm planted, though. And replace as needed during the season. There are 2 other wrinkles to the approach I use. I've had problems from a rascally raccoon, so I now put chicken wire (held down with lawn staples) over the mulch/newsprint combo. To warm my soil for tomatoes and peppers I put clear plastic over the mulch/newsprint combo, and plant through holes I cut, "X", next to drip emitters. - cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder "wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins, making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for high-quality garden furnishings, etc." http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro ts.htm I have no idea what this means. It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi. --- Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777 5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1 (Available at a library near you.) Chapter 1 Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells). Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients as waste. there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can easily be attacked. Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates, these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI are eaten and the plant suffers. When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are consumed or die. --- Gaia's Garden, Second Edition: A Guide To Home-Scale Permaculture (Paperback) by Toby Hemenway http://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-S...culture/dp/160 3580298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271266976&sr=1-1 (Available at a library near you.) p.74 "When the leaf is rinsed free of polyphenols and the other bitter-tasting compounds and tenderized by moisture, the feast begins. Among the first at the table are bacteria that have lain dormant on the leaf surface. They revel in the moisture and begin to bloom, secreting enzymes that tear apart the long chains of sugar molecules composing' the leaf cell walls. In just hours, the leaf is speckled with the dark blotches of bacterial colonies. Wind-bome spores of fungi land and burst into life, and soon the white threads of fungal cells, called hyphae, knit a lacework across the leaf. Fungi possess a broad spectrum of enzymes able to digest lignin (the tough molecules that make wood so strong) and other hard-to-eat components of plants. This gives them a critical niche in the web of decomposers; without them, Earth might be neck-deep in fallen, undecomposable tree trunks. Moistened by rain and softened by microbial feeding, the leaf quickly succumbs to attack by larger creatures. Millipedes, pill bugs (isopods), fly larvae, springtails, oribatid mites, enchytraeid worms, and earthworms begin to feed on the tasty tissue, shredding the leaf into small scraps. All of these invertebrates, together with bacteria, algae, fungi, and threadlike fungal relatives called actinomycetes, are the first to dine on rotting organic matter. They are called the primary decomposers." If you plan on feeding cedarwood to your soil, I'd find something else. OK. In other words, it would hurt my plants or make the veggies toxic? No, but cedarwood may reduce the fertility of your soil, if you count on it for a carbon source. tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your mulch. Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch. Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression? By blocking the sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away from where you want it. If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork. Thanks! Priscilla The information below seems to be about composting. Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants. I hope this helps. I have a copy of _Let It Rot_. I have a compost heap, but what I'm asking about is mulch. There are things I might use for mulch that I'd never put in my compost heap: like landscape fabric, for instance. Thanks. Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition) (Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides) by Stu Campbell http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref= sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1 p.39 Compostable Material Average C/N Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25 Grass clippings ................................ 25 Leguminous plants (peas, beans,soybeans) ............................. 15 Manure with bedding ........................... 23 Manure ....................................... 15 Oak leaves .................................... 50 Pine needles .............................. 60-100 Sawdust................................. 150-500 Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100 Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25 Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7 Alfalfa ................................................ 12 Newspaper........................................ 175 ------- http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios) All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C) combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile. Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens." Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios Browns = High Carbon C:N Ashes, wood 25:1 Cardboard, shredded 350:1 Corn stalks 75:1 Fruit waste 35:1 Leaves 60:1 Newspaper, shredded 175:1 Peanut shells 35:1 Pine needles 80:1 Sawdust 325:1 Straw 75:1 Wood chips 400:1 Greens = High Nitrogen C:N Alfalfa 12:1 Clover 23:1 Coffee grounds 20:1 Food waste 20:1 Garden waste 30:1 Grass clippings 20:1 Hay 25:1 Manures 15:1 Seaweed 19:1 Vegetable scraps 25:1 Weeds 30:1 Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry leaves or wood chips. Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot compost pile here. ----------- http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html GREEN (Nitrogen) BROWN (Carbon) Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1 Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots! Leaves** 60-80:1 One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially shredded or broken down (leaf mulch). Food Scraps** 17:1 Vegetable Scraps** 25:1 Straw, Hay** 90:1 The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown. Coffee Grounds** 25:1 Sawdust** 500:1 Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips. Use very sparingly! Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1 Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source if necessary. Woody chips & twigs** 700:1 Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile. Fresh Weeds** 20:1 Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C. Shredded Newspaper** 175:1 Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and soak in water for fast breakdown. Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1 Nut shells** 35:1 Rotted Manure** 20:1 Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds that can sprout in the bin. Pine Needles** 80:1 Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly. Humus (soil)** 10:1 This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to "seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top. Corn Stalks** 60:1 Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down. Seaweed** 19:1 Peat Moss** 58:1 Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler. General Garden Waste** 30:1 Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with leaves NOTE The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary according to source, researcher or scientist! Last installment McGowan's Drinking Guide (Translated from the original German. It's complicated, OK?) Drinking Problems Symptom Fault Action to be Taken Have awoken to find Have spent the night Look at watch to see if your bed hard, cold, in the gutter. it is opening time - and wet. Cannot see If not, treat yourself bedroom walls. to a lie-in. "Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden, And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind deeds." - Longfellow 1807*1882 Taxes Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where our money went "America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash. It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks and the portfolios of the uber-rich." http://theuptake.org/2011/03/05/mich...wisconsin-is-b roke/ -- - Billy Dept. of Defense budget: $663.8 billion Dept. of Health and Human Services budget: $78.4 billion Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. This world in arms is not spending money alone. It is spending the sweat of its laborers, the genius of its scientists, the hopes of its children. This is not a way of life at all in any true sense. Under the clouds of war, it is humanity hanging on a cross of iron. - Dwight D. Eisenhower, 16 April 1953 |
Mulching materials
On Apr 25, 3:37*pm, Peppermint Patootie
wrote: I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on weeding and water. *(I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the mulch.) I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. *I'm concerned about: *1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant * 2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be eating i.e. toxic? *3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material. Here's what I have ideas of using: - *newspapers - *straw *(trying to get some bales delivered: *anyone know a good * * * source near Boston?) - *cedar shavings *(are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers) Does anyone have any other good ideas? *I don't have a lawn, so don't have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my neighbor. *I want them for the compost heap anyway. I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer. Thanks! Priscilla urban organic gardener in zone 6 -- "What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works." * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - Chris Malcolm I got a bag of cat litter, compressed pine pellets I cant figure what to do with it. My one cat can't figure it out!! |
Mulching materials
I got a bag of cat litter, compressed pine pellets I cant figure what to do with it. My one cat can't figure it out!! My cats hated the pine litter also, I used it on my walk this winter which was a mistake because it's still on the walks, the rain hasn't washed it away. It's not as bad as the clumping litter, I dumped some of that down a groundhog hole near my garden a few years ago on the theory that dirty cat litter would drive the groundhogs away. The clumping litter turns into a slurry and it never goes away, it's still there years later. |
Mulching materials
In article
, Billy wrote: In article , Peppermint Patootie wrote: In article , Billy wrote: "wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins, making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for high-quality garden furnishings, etc." http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro ts.htm I have no idea what this means. It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi. It's fine by me if the cedar takes a while to decompose. The soil the plants will be in is very good, and I'd appreciate having mulch that lasts the season without needing to be replenished. I know that cedar boards eventually decompose because my old raised bed which were made of cedar are falling apart after 12 years. The cedar shavings, BTW, are actually unused "Cedarific" cat litter which my cats don't like. I have a huge bag and am trying to find a use for it. --- Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777 5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1 (Available at a library near you.) Chapter 1 Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells). Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients as waste. there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can easily be attacked. Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates, these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI are eaten and the plant suffers. When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are consumed or die. --- OK. I'm more accustomed to fungi being something one has to treat when it infects plants (or animals/people), so I would have regarded fungicidal tendencies as a good thing. I am now better educated on the topic. Thanks. Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch. Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression? Yeah. Weed suffocation. Typo. By blocking the sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away from where you want it. If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork. I think I mentioned in my original post that the mulch was going on top of the soaker hoses. I haven't got any 6 weeks at this point. I want to put in beans, squash, etc. next week, and my tomatoes are arriving at the end of May. And there's lots of other work needing to be done. The information below seems to be about composting. Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants. Yes, I know. I compost, but weeds are so vicious in my yard and time/energy in short supply, so I'm hoping for mulch that will do its job and stick around for a while. I hope this helps. You've been very helpful. Thanks! Priscilla -- "What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works." - Chris Malcolm |
Mulching materials
In article
, Peppermint Patootie wrote: In article , Billy wrote: In article , Peppermint Patootie wrote: In article , Billy wrote: "wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins, making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for high-quality garden furnishings, etc." http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...lBiology/woodr o ts.htm I have no idea what this means. It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi. It's fine by me if the cedar takes a while to decompose. The soil the plants will be in is very good, and I'd appreciate having mulch that lasts the season without needing to be replenished. I know that cedar boards eventually decompose because my old raised bed which were made of cedar are falling apart after 12 years. The cedar shavings, BTW, are actually unused "Cedarific" cat litter which my cats don't like. I have a huge bag and am trying to find a use for it. --- Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777 5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1 (Available at a library near you.) Chapter 1 Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells). Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients as waste. there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can easily be attacked. Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates, these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI are eaten and the plant suffers. When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are consumed or die. --- OK. I'm more accustomed to fungi being something one has to treat when it infects plants (or animals/people), so I would have regarded fungicidal tendencies as a good thing. I am now better educated on the topic. Thanks. Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch. Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression? Yeah. Weed suffocation. Typo. By blocking the sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away from where you want it. If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork. I think I mentioned in my original post that the mulch was going on top of the soaker hoses. I put mine on top, so it is easier to see any malfunction, and when I want to add to the bed, I caan just pull it back, make my adjustments, and then replace it. It should be no problem with a soaker hose. I haven't got any 6 weeks at this point. I want to put in beans, squash, etc. next week, and my tomatoes are arriving at the end of May. And there's lots of other work needing to be done. And "lasagna gardening", a.k.a. sheet mulching, reduces the manual labor that goes into gardening. The information below seems to be about composting. Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants. Yes, I know. I compost, but weeds are so vicious in my yard and time/energy in short supply, so I'm hoping for mulch that will do its job and stick around for a while. I've always considered that the newsprint was the physical barrier to the weeds, and the sunlight. I get away with 3" of mulch in my beds, and will have no weeds where the paper is put down and covered with mulch. I hope this helps. You've been very helpful. Thanks! Priscilla I hope you have a good season. "All gardeners know better than other gardeners." - Chinese -- - Billy Bush's 3rd term: Obama plus another elective war Bush's 4th term: we can't afford it America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash. It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks and the portfolios of the uber-rich. http://theuptake.org/2011/03/05/michael-moore-the-big-lie-wisconsin-is-broke/ |
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