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#1
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Optimal soil composition for water retention
In my new garden I have now replaced the soil of about half the beds
with either manure, composted wood chips, or soil from my other garden which was itself once 100% compost. The original soil was extreme sand. Right now it is sandy loam and it will improve further. I am mostly interested in water retention, because I like these $100 water bills less and less. With the other beds, when I change the soil, should I go 100% compost or 50% compost-50% clay (which I can pick up from my neighbor). In other words, is 100% compost always the best for water, or given that the organic content is high anyway, go with some clay as well? Obviously, no matter what I do, some sand will always be in there as the earthworms churn and mix the various components. In my other garden, by the way, I have seen that when a lump of clay comes in (mixed with the manure) it does disappear in the soil in a matter of 1-2 years, so adding clay in a loamy soil can be done. |
#2
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There are some pseudo-organic choices. I add those water retention
crystals(Soil Moist or another brand). I mix them fully into the soil, down to 18" when I turn out soil for new beds. The ones I bought last five years and break down into potassium. I also use peat moss and perlite/mvermiculite since they are all considered good water-retention materials. I mix all of them fully through the root zone, not just the top 3-6 inches. . "simy1" wrote: In my new garden I have now replaced the soil of about half the beds with either manure, composted wood chips, or soil from my other garden which was itself once 100% compost. The original soil was extreme sand. Right now it is sandy loam and it will improve further. I am mostly interested in water retention, because I like these $100 water bills less and less. With the other beds, when I change the soil, should I go 100% compost or 50% compost-50% clay (which I can pick up from my neighbor). In other words, is 100% compost always the best for water, or given that the organic content is high anyway, go with some clay as well? Obviously, no matter what I do, some sand will always be in there as the earthworms churn and mix the various components. In my other garden, by the way, I have seen that when a lump of clay comes in (mixed with the manure) it does disappear in the soil in a matter of 1-2 years, so adding clay in a loamy soil can be done. DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email) Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound 3rd year gardener http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph |
#3
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I was told by someone in my area that clay soil actually retains water
better than any other type. The soil here is mostly clay so I add a lot of leaf mulch and manure to it. A loamy/sandy soil doesn't retain water well but has some benefits when watering. That is it absorbs the water much better than a clay soil. By the time the soil needs watering here the surface absorbs water so slowly that a lot is lost to runoff and evaporation. So for you I would say yes to adding some clay to your soil. A good mix of clay, manure, compost, wood chips, leaf mulch, and the already present sand would do just fine (and maybe some lime if your soil is too acidic). Lumps of clay are fine as long as they aren't too large. My garden has lumps about the size of a marble after some deep and thorough tilling that I did this spring when I added to my soil. |
#4
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Thanks to all. I think I found the answer - compost is better than clay
but not by much. So the fill will be done with manure and wood chips but no clay http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/fieldcrops/g964.htm |
#5
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Seems to me like a job for "Mr. Wizard", that is, an experiment. How
about mixing up two batches that represent your ideals of tilth. Put one in a 5 gallon drywall bucket with holes punched in the bottom. Add a measured amount of water to saturate the soil. Place bucket over something to catch the water that passes through. Measure water and repeat for the other mixture(s). Make your choice. It is worth recalling that many clay soils offer better retention of minerals and other ions in the soil as they tend to bind to the surface of the clay particles. Our local black clay has the consistency of heavy bearing grease went wet and concrete when dry. Mixed with enough (a lot, believe me) of organic matter, it is pretty good gardening soil. What passes for "loam" hereabouts (Central Texas) is really just a mixture of red clay and river silt. It is about as fertile as growing in a pot of marbles in my experience. On 13 Jun 2005 13:44:09 -0700, "simy1" wrote: In my new garden I have now replaced the soil of about half the beds with either manure, composted wood chips, or soil from my other garden which was itself once 100% compost. The original soil was extreme sand. Right now it is sandy loam and it will improve further. I am mostly interested in water retention, because I like these $100 water bills less and less. With the other beds, when I change the soil, should I go 100% compost or 50% compost-50% clay (which I can pick up from my neighbor). In other words, is 100% compost always the best for water, or given that the organic content is high anyway, go with some clay as well? Obviously, no matter what I do, some sand will always be in there as the earthworms churn and mix the various components. In my other garden, by the way, I have seen that when a lump of clay comes in (mixed with the manure) it does disappear in the soil in a matter of 1-2 years, so adding clay in a loamy soil can be done. |
#6
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good idea and worth doing but if you toss chunks of clay and compost in
a bed it will take them a couple years to form the final soil. At any rate it is clear there is no large difference, ad even for mineral retention, I bet old compost is similar to clay. I will add compost simply because it is easier for me to shovel manure than to dig clay, plus with the manure I do not need to fertilize for a couple of years, and in the past I have been happy with the performance of a manure bed covered with a thin layer of wood chips (no fertilizing, no weeding). |
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