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phosphates too high, need advice
Hi,
I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. |
phosphates too high, need advice
I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using
Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate levels.... Maybe you are using too much fertilizer?? Troy "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03... Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. |
phosphates too high, need advice
I really don't use that much and sometimes i don't do it every week...so i
don't think it could be that, but you never know. i'll check out that stuff you mentioned. thanks. "Troy Bruder" wrote in message ... I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate levels.... Maybe you are using too much fertilizer?? Troy "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03... Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. |
phosphates too high, need advice
Ahhhh, I think I will get some of this and put it in my magnum.
http://www.seachem.com/en_products/p...phosguard.html "Troy Bruder" wrote in message ... I've used to have a massive "black algea" problem until I started using Phosphate Elimator from Auquamarine to help control my phosphate levels.... Maybe you are using too much fertilizer?? Troy "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:hdEta.505381$Zo.110046@sccrnsc03... Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. |
phosphates too high, need advice
Have you tested your tapwater?
I have 40 ppm of phosphate in my tap water. (The water company uses it an an anticorrosive, to protect their pipes.) It's never caused me any algae trouble, in a planted or unplanted tank. In fact, I'm glad they put phosphate in the water. It spares me the embarrassment of buying Fleet enemas. :-) You have a lot of light over your tank. I hope you have a compressed CO2 system. Do you know what your pH and KH are? You will be fighting constant algae battles if you don't get enough CO2 injected. And do you know your nitrate levels? IMO, a nitrate test kit is much more useful than a phosphate test kit. I would not waste money on phosphate absorbers and such. They are not necessary, and I bet they won't fix your problem. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. ---snip-- Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. Get a few gallons of distilled water. You can make it yourself. Test the Phosphate. Add a dose of you suspected product and test again. Compare the two numbers. This will tell you if you are putting PO4 in via one of your additives. I suspect your tap water. James Ervin Remove SPAM to email me. |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs that come with Coralife fixtures? How much, how often, and what are you feeding your fish? How many fish do you have in the tank? Do you know what your tap water phosphates level is? For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high in phosphates), iron, and traces. You have fallen for a common mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2 injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. If you will post your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank, you need to treat the problem and not the symptom. Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
"Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs that come with Coralife fixtures? 6500K (2) 10000K (2) How much, how often, and what are you feeding your fish? i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and tetra flake and pellets How many fish do you have in the tank? 2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom) 6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size) 2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches) 6 Serpae 5 Red Eye 7 Zebra Danio 3 Otto 1 Whiptail Catfish Do you know what your tap water phosphates level is? The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in my tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them to go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I have stated here. For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high in phosphates), iron, and traces. Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so I cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them, not all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a few tuffs growing in the Florite. You have fallen for a common mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2 injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2 months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. If you will post your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank, you need to treat the problem and not the symptom pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely kH = 2 gH = 5 NO2 = 0.3 mg/l NO3 = less than 10ppm And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for the assistance. Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
Ammonia = 0 Also, I just realized the hair algea is thickest where my filter outlet is located. Everywhere else it is not near as much. "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04... "Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs that come with Coralife fixtures? 6500K (2) 10000K (2) How much, how often, and what are you feeding your fish? i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and tetra flake and pellets How many fish do you have in the tank? 2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom) 6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size) 2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches) 6 Serpae 5 Red Eye 7 Zebra Danio 3 Otto 1 Whiptail Catfish Do you know what your tap water phosphates level is? The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in my tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them to go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I have stated here. For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high in phosphates), iron, and traces. Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so I cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them, not all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a few tuffs growing in the Florite. You have fallen for a common mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2 injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2 months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. If you will post your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank, you need to treat the problem and not the symptom pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely kH = 2 gH = 5 NO2 = 0.3 mg/l NO3 = less than 10ppm And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for the assistance. Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons 4 times a week? thanks. "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04... "Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs that come with Coralife fixtures? 6500K (2) 10000K (2) How much, how often, and what are you feeding your fish? i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and tetra flake and pellets How many fish do you have in the tank? 2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom) 6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size) 2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches) 6 Serpae 5 Red Eye 7 Zebra Danio 3 Otto 1 Whiptail Catfish Do you know what your tap water phosphates level is? The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in my tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them to go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I have stated here. For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high in phosphates), iron, and traces. Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so I cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them, not all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a few tuffs growing in the Florite. You have fallen for a common mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2 injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2 months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. If you will post your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank, you need to treat the problem and not the symptom pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely kH = 2 gH = 5 NO2 = 0.3 mg/l NO3 = less than 10ppm And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for the assistance. Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
here is a pic of my tank...you can't really see the hair algea from this
pic, but I thought i'd share it. http://idoneous.net/images/75_tank/tank.jpg "SlimFlem" wrote in message news:LNWta.759433$F1.96718@sccrnsc04... "Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 01:28:46 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Well to start with you have a lot of light over the tank. As has been suggested have you tested your nitrates? I also think you water change schedule is seriously lacking. I do weekly 50% water changes on my high light tanks. You are only doing 10 gallons a week. You should be doing more along the lines of 35-40 gallons a week. What bulbs do you have in your lights? Are they the standard 50/50 bulbs that come with Coralife fixtures? 6500K (2) 10000K (2) How much, how often, and what are you feeding your fish? i feed once per day. i rotate between frozen brine and bloodworms, and tetra flake and pellets How many fish do you have in the tank? 2 large Angelfish (about 7 inches from top to bottom) 6 Clown Loaches ( all about middle finger size) 2 Rainbowfish (both about 4 inches) 6 Serpae 5 Red Eye 7 Zebra Danio 3 Otto 1 Whiptail Catfish Do you know what your tap water phosphates level is? The phosphates from my sink do not register. However, the phosphates in my tank still read off the chart. I am now confused. What would could them to go so high in my tank. I don't add anything to the tank besides what I have stated here. For as much light as you have over the tank your fertilizing regime really sucks. With this much light over the tank you really should be dosing nitrates, potassium, phosphates (unless your tap water is high in phosphates), iron, and traces. Also, I used to fertilize more heavily, but my plants were doing great so I cut it back a little. The plants I have, all Sag and Val are doing really good. There is only a very small amount of hair algea on some of them, not all. The hair algea is primarily on the root wood, and some rocks and a few tuffs growing in the Florite. You have fallen for a common mistake of placing a lot of light over a tank and thinking you are done. High light tanks require a lot of work. Do you have CO2 injection? With this light level CO2 injection is not a luxury it's a requirement. And DIY CO2 is not going to cut it. I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2 months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. If you will post your pH, kH, gH, and nitrate levels we will be able to give you more help. Algae growth is the symptom of something wrong with your tank, you need to treat the problem and not the symptom pH = slightly above 7.0, not much, just barely kH = 2 gH = 5 NO2 = 0.3 mg/l NO3 = less than 10ppm And believe me, I want to treat the problem, not the symptom. Thanks for the assistance. Hi, I have a 75 gallon planted tank and have recently started getting green hair algea growing on some plants and on some rocks. My plants are doing great. I have a Coralife compact flour light 4 x 65 I think it is. Well, I bought a Tetra Phosphate test kit and the blue is so dark it's off the scale. I don't understand this. I do 2 water changes a week. Each one is about 5 gallons. I use some of the Florish products weekly. for filters i have an Eheim Pro canister and a Magnum 350 that I use to run different filter media in. I usually use Purigen. I get good effects from it. The only other thing I have used is some stuff called "Instant Amazon". It says it doesn't support algea growth, but I am starting to think otherwise. I have stopped using it until I stop the algea. Oh yeah, my lights are on timers and I had the lights running about 13 hours a day. I know that is probably too much. I have reset the timers to about 10 hours a day. How does that sound? Why do you think my phosphates are up? I did about a 20% water change today with water that airated overnight, but the phosphate levels still read as high. Do you think the reading could be false? I also have a SeaChem PO4 test kit. I take a test with that one and see what it indicates. thanks for any advice and reading all my questions. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons 4 times a week? thanks. One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my Python. And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
The reason I've always hesitated to get a Python is because I don't want to
put tap water directly into the tank. Isn't that how it works? I prefer to airate the water for a day and adding Prime to it. Do you just turn the Python on and let it start filling from the sink and you just squirt some water treatment in at the same time? how do you control the temperature? if my 5 gallon bucket of water gets too cool, i just add a little water heated on the stove and let it airate for 20 minutes more or so and then pour it into the tank. what do you think of this system. I've looked into compressed CO2, but haven't done it yet. After I move in a couple of months, I'll probably end up getting one so I can do it right. I'll have to learn about all the pieces to get, etc. thanks "Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons 4 times a week? thanks. One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my Python. And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
75 gallon
=) "Rex Grigg" wrote in message ... On Tue, 06 May 2003 23:00:42 GMT, "SlimFlem" wrote: Also, Rex you say my water changes suck. I hear ya. The reason I do such small amounts is because I cannot do too much at a time because of my back condition. Do you think if I increased the frequency of the small water changes it would be as good as doing one large one per week? For example, I now change 5 gallons twice a week....what if I increased that to 5 gallons 4 times a week? thanks. One word. Python. If you have a 125 gallon tank and a bad back you really need a Python. I would not have tanks if I did not have my Python. And are you sure it's hair algae and not black brush algae? Your phosphates are coming from somewhere. I'm betting it's from the fish food (most common source) and lack of water changes. And you really need to get a pressurized CO2 system on that tank. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2
months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. You have too much light over your tank to do without CO2 injection. If you can't inject CO2, reduce your lighting. Otherwise, you'll be battling algae constantly. Try to get your lighting to around 2 wpg, if you can't inject CO2. The phosphate is probably coming from the fish food. You've got measurable nitrite in your tank. That means your biological filter is overloaded. Your tank is lovely, but it also looks a little scant on plants. Adding more plants will "crowd out" the algae, and also help reduce nitrite and phosphate. I have a 75 gallon tank with slightly less light than you, and compressed CO2. I change 30%-50% of the water each week. And I have compressed CO2. (A 75 gallon tank is a bit large for DIY CO2.) I use a Python, and it's probably the best money I ever spent. Don't worry about treating the water. You can do it in the tank. Dechlorinator works instantly. You can add it before you start adding water back in, if you're really worried. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
phosphates too high, need advice
LeighMo, so you are saying since I match at the lowest testable level on my
Nitrite test, I have too much Nitrite?...so any measureable amount of Nitrite is bad?? I thought my Eheim 2028 with 2 trays of ceramic and 1 tray of efimech would supply more than enough bio life for the tank. what are your thoughts? i will add some more plants. I like the open look and lots of free swimming room for the fish, but i know it does need a few more. I have a couple of options for reducing the light. I can either: 1) turn off 2 of the 65w bulbs 2) leave both on, but reduce the number of hours 3) reduce the amount of time the second set of lights comes on what would be best? i know my Vals and Sags will slow their growth way down if they don't get lots of light. Maybe it's best to leave both sets of lights coming on, but reduce the number of hours. Opinions? i have reset my timers for about 9.5 - 10 hours instead of the 12.5 - 13 it was on when the DIY CO2 was going. I really didn't like the whole DIY difusser thing in the tank and dealing with the yeast. Can a compressed system be kept to look decent and not have a bunch of bulky crap in the tank? does anyone have pictures of their compressed setups? thanks. "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I was using DIY CO2, but after i had a herniated disc in my back about 2 months ago, I no longer am doing this since I can't really bend so much right now to get under the tank and set them up. I live by myself. You have too much light over your tank to do without CO2 injection. If you can't inject CO2, reduce your lighting. Otherwise, you'll be battling algae constantly. Try to get your lighting to around 2 wpg, if you can't inject CO2. The phosphate is probably coming from the fish food. You've got measurable nitrite in your tank. That means your biological filter is overloaded. Your tank is lovely, but it also looks a little scant on plants. Adding more plants will "crowd out" the algae, and also help reduce nitrite and phosphate. I have a 75 gallon tank with slightly less light than you, and compressed CO2. I change 30%-50% of the water each week. And I have compressed CO2. (A 75 gallon tank is a bit large for DIY CO2.) I use a Python, and it's probably the best money I ever spent. Don't worry about treating the water. You can do it in the tank. Dechlorinator works instantly. You can add it before you start adding water back in, if you're really worried. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Wed, 07 May 2003 02:59:59 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: On the Python, I just run the water from the tap to the tank and add the water conditioner to the tank. I don't get anal about the temperature. If it's close I fill the tank. Swings in temperature happen all the time in the wild. They are called rain storms. So long as you are not dropping the temperature 10 degrees you are fine. Any measurable nitrites are bad. Your filter is either overloaded or your tank is still cycling. For the lights turn off two of the bulbs. CO2 can be done quite nicely. If you get a cylinder/regulator combo that fits in your stand you will have nothing in the tank. You can build a reactor that will plumb right into the out-flow line of your cannister filter. The parts you need are a cylinder, regulator, needle valve, and reactor. LeighMo, so you are saying since I match at the lowest testable level on my Nitrite test, I have too much Nitrite?...so any measureable amount of Nitrite is bad?? I thought my Eheim 2028 with 2 trays of ceramic and 1 tray of efimech would supply more than enough bio life for the tank. what are your thoughts? i will add some more plants. I like the open look and lots of free swimming room for the fish, but i know it does need a few more. I have a couple of options for reducing the light. I can either: 1) turn off 2 of the 65w bulbs 2) leave both on, but reduce the number of hours 3) reduce the amount of time the second set of lights comes on what would be best? i know my Vals and Sags will slow their growth way down if they don't get lots of light. Maybe it's best to leave both sets of lights coming on, but reduce the number of hours. Opinions? i have reset my timers for about 9.5 - 10 hours instead of the 12.5 - 13 it was on when the DIY CO2 was going. I really didn't like the whole DIY difusser thing in the tank and dealing with the yeast. Can a compressed system be kept to look decent and not have a bunch of bulky crap in the tank? does anyone have pictures of their compressed setups? thanks. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
LeighMo, so you are saying since I match at the lowest testable level on my
Nitrite test, I have too much Nitrite?...so any measureable amount of Nitrite is bad?? YES. Any measurable nitrite means something is wrong. The level you have is enough to be fatal to fish over long periods. I thought my Eheim 2028 with 2 trays of ceramic and 1 tray of efimech would supply more than enough bio life for the tank. what are your thoughts? Did you do anything that might have affected your biological filter? Clean it, use antibiotics in the tank? If not, your tank may be overstocked, or you may be overfeeding. You don't have a lot of fish, but some of them are pretty big. I have a couple of options for reducing the light. I can either: 1) turn off 2 of the 65w bulbs 2) leave both on, but reduce the number of hours 3) reduce the amount of time the second set of lights comes on what would be best? Turn off some of the bulbs. Changing the lighting duration won't make a difference. You don't want to go less than 10 hours. i know my Vals and Sags will slow their growth way down if they don't get lots of light. True, but they'll still grow. They are plants that do fine at moderate lighting levels. Can a compressed system be kept to look decent and not have a bunch of bulky crap in the tank? does anyone have pictures of their compressed setups? You could inject the CO2 directly into the Eheim filter intake. The only extra thing in your tank would be a few inches of thin, transparent airline tubing. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
phosphates too high, need advice
OK, thanks for all the advice. I will make some changes as per your guy's
suggestions and repost in a week or so and see how my Nitrite and Phosphate levels are doing. And I'll be getting a Python. I didn't realize they were so great. The bucket thing does get old. haha Also, I have all the stuff to make a PMDD solution. I've had it for a month or so and want to start using it. However, should I be using this only in conjuction with a compressed CO2 setup? thanks. "LeighMo" wrote in message ... LeighMo, so you are saying since I match at the lowest testable level on my Nitrite test, I have too much Nitrite?...so any measureable amount of Nitrite is bad?? YES. Any measurable nitrite means something is wrong. The level you have is enough to be fatal to fish over long periods. I thought my Eheim 2028 with 2 trays of ceramic and 1 tray of efimech would supply more than enough bio life for the tank. what are your thoughts? Did you do anything that might have affected your biological filter? Clean it, use antibiotics in the tank? If not, your tank may be overstocked, or you may be overfeeding. You don't have a lot of fish, but some of them are pretty big. I haven't done anything at all to the filter in months and I have not used any med's either. Thinking back, I probably caused this problem when I slacked on the fronzen foods and fed mostly dry foods for a few weeks. I'll also only feed fronze foods during the next couple of weeks and see how things work out. I have a couple of options for reducing the light. I can either: 1) turn off 2 of the 65w bulbs 2) leave both on, but reduce the number of hours 3) reduce the amount of time the second set of lights comes on what would be best? Turn off some of the bulbs. Changing the lighting duration won't make a difference. You don't want to go less than 10 hours. OK i know my Vals and Sags will slow their growth way down if they don't get lots of light. True, but they'll still grow. They are plants that do fine at moderate lighting levels. Can a compressed system be kept to look decent and not have a bunch of bulky crap in the tank? does anyone have pictures of their compressed setups? You could inject the CO2 directly into the Eheim filter intake. The only extra thing in your tank would be a few inches of thin, transparent airline tubing. The bad thing about all of this is that I am going to be out of country for 2 weeks next month and then have to move across the street as soon as I get back. My tank will have to be broken down completely. =( It's been up well over a year. =( =( later. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Wed, 07 May 2003 12:15:35 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: OK, thanks for all the advice. I will make some changes as per your guy's suggestions and repost in a week or so and see how my Nitrite and Phosphate levels are doing. And I'll be getting a Python. I didn't realize they were so great. The bucket thing does get old. haha Also, I have all the stuff to make a PMDD solution. I've had it for a month or so and want to start using it. However, should I be using this only in conjuction with a compressed CO2 setup? thanks. No you should be feeding the plants. When you get a CO2 system you will have to feed the plants more. But you should feed them. However while we are on the subject I'm not a big fan of the PMDD one size fits all formula. I dose each component of PMDD separately in my tanks. If you want more on this subject I have written about it on the Aqua Botanic web forum. Semper Fi! Visit the forums at Aqua Botanic! http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/#1 Need Nitrate or Potassium for your tank? Go to www.litemanu.com (Just a happy customer of the above!) |
phosphates too high, need advice
SlimFlem wrote:
The reason I've always hesitated to get a Python is because I don't want to put tap water directly into the tank. Isn't that how it works? I prefer to airate the water for a day and adding Prime to it. Do you just turn the Python on and let it start filling from the sink and you just squirt some water treatment in at the same time? how do you control the temperature? if my 5 gallon bucket of water gets too cool, i just add a little water heated on the stove and let it airate for 20 minutes more or so and then pour it into the tank. what do you think of this system. Years ago, when Chlorine was all that was added to tap water, letting water aerate for a day was sufficient to get rid of it. Actually, much of it outgassed when passing through the aerator on the faucet. Today, most of us live in areas where they use Chloramines due to tighter health regulations-that Chlorine didn't stay put very well, after all! Aerating your water does nothing to remove Chloramines. But the Prime you add takes care of them quite nicely. Regarding Python, the simple answer is to add sufficient Prime for the entire tank when performing the water change-this is what the instructions on the Prime bottle say. So if you are changing 20 gallons in a 70 gallon tank, just add sufficient Prime for 70 gallons. This may be slight overkill, but it is safe for your fish. |
phosphates too high, need advice
SlimFlem wrote: Ahhhh, I think I will get some of this and put it in my magnum. http://www.seachem.com/en_products/p...phosguard.html Well, just to confuse the issue, here's another page on Seachem's site you should read: http://www.seachem.com/en_products/p...9_Flrsh_P.html They get you coming and going, huh? Consensus here on the list is this: Phosphate is one of the three macronutrients (along with Nitrogen and Potassium) which, along with Carbon from CO2, are necessary for plant growth. Plants cannot grow without it. Excess Phosphate IN THE ABSENSE OF SUFFICIENT OTHER NUTRIENTS has been implicated in algae outbreaks, but Phosphate alone is not the culprit. |
phosphates too high, need advice
On Tue, 06 May 2003 22:57:34 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote: snip You need co2 plain and simple. If you go (if they are still on the newsever)and look at previous discussions about algae control you'll find a reoccuring theme: CO2 fertilizing will solve algae problems the majority of the time. Higher plants will out-compete algae every time if given enough CO2. Algae seems to do best under "adverse" conditions that are not ideal for higher plants especially when there is a lot of light. |
phosphates too high, need advice
You could put like a trough somewhere, and plumb a tube from the trough up to the
tank..put a submersible pump in there..... Use the python to take water out of the tank, or fill the trough(in advance). Water from the trough can then be pumped into the tank when you do changes. Dave Millman wrote: SlimFlem wrote: The reason I've always hesitated to get a Python is because I don't want to put tap water directly into the tank. Isn't that how it works? I prefer to airate the water for a day and adding Prime to it. Do you just turn the Python on and let it start filling from the sink and you just squirt some water treatment in at the same time? how do you control the temperature? if my 5 gallon bucket of water gets too cool, i just add a little water heated on the stove and let it airate for 20 minutes more or so and then pour it into the tank. what do you think of this system. Years ago, when Chlorine was all that was added to tap water, letting water aerate for a day was sufficient to get rid of it. Actually, much of it outgassed when passing through the aerator on the faucet. Today, most of us live in areas where they use Chloramines due to tighter health regulations-that Chlorine didn't stay put very well, after all! Aerating your water does nothing to remove Chloramines. But the Prime you add takes care of them quite nicely. Regarding Python, the simple answer is to add sufficient Prime for the entire tank when performing the water change-this is what the instructions on the Prime bottle say. So if you are changing 20 gallons in a 70 gallon tank, just add sufficient Prime for 70 gallons. This may be slight overkill, but it is safe for your fish. |
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