Free C02 regulator
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Free C02 regulator
Co2 Regulator
Remember that most fish need oxygen and at night the plants don't give off oxygen and at night the plants don't need Co2 as plants only use the Co2 during the day. so please, be kind and turn off your Co2 at night. -- Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Robert H" wrote in message m... Join the WET Thumb Forums and have a chance at a free C02 regulator http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/eve |
Free C02 regulator
|| Co2 Regulator
|| || Remember that most fish need oxygen || and at night the plants don't give off oxygen || and at night the plants don't need Co2 as || plants only use the Co2 during the day. || so please, be kind and turn off your Co2 at night. || || -- || Sir Douglas Cook You can put down the crack pipe anytime.. no need to turn of Co2 at night, wive's tale... photosynthesis takes care of oxygen release, and many years now fish have been living thru the night with Co2... -- RedForeman ©® future fabricator and creator of a ratbike streetfighter!!! ========================== 2003 TRX450ES 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale) '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted.... ========================== ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø is that better?? |
Free C02 regulator
Oh,,, you called me a name! That was nice was it... eh.
Read on,,, First!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Simply take a pop bottle and drill a hole in the cap to fit a air line... and glue air line connector to the cap and attach a airline to the connector. And your done. Fill with 1/4 sugar, 1 tsp yeast, and Optionally 1 tsp baking soda to slow the process. Add water up to 2/3 of the bottle and place the FREE Co2 PUMP in a place where it can't be knocked over and pump liquid waste directly into your aquarium. Put the other end of the airline hose through and under your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. Second!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It all depends on how thoughtful you are to your fish. Please, Please Read Tropical Fishlopaedia A Complete Guide to Fish Care Author Mary Bailey and Peter Burgress. This book states,,, On page98,,, heading Factors Affecting oxygen content of Water Quoted from the book: "C02 injection. In recent years some aquarists have used this process, whereby carbon dioxide is added (from a gas cylinder) to the aquarium, in order to promote plant growth. CO2 injection must be used with considerable care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the aquarium is crowded and /or the fish include species with a high oxygen requirement. Some aquarists try to get round this problem by using additional aeration, but, while this will certainly increase the oxygen content and benefit the fish, it will at the same time drive off the carbon dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Third!!!!!!!!!! Thank you for Requesting me to Explain Fully. -- Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostN0SPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "RedForeman ©®" wrote in message ... || Co2 Regulator || || Remember that most fish need oxygen || and at night the plants don't give off oxygen || and at night the plants don't need Co2 as || plants only use the Co2 during the day. || so please, be kind and turn off your Co2 at night. || || -- || Sir Douglas Cook You can put down the crack pipe anytime.. no need to turn of Co2 at night, wive's tale... photosynthesis takes care of oxygen release, and many years now fish have been living thru the night with Co2... -- RedForeman ©® future fabricator and creator of a ratbike streetfighter!!! ========================== 2003 TRX450ES 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale) '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted.... ========================== ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø is that better?? |
Free C02 regulator
Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
Quoted from the book: "C02 injection. In recent years some aquarists have used this process, whereby carbon dioxide is added (from a gas cylinder) to the aquarium, in order to promote plant growth. CO2 injection must be used with considerable care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the aquarium is crowded and /or the fish include species with a high oxygen requirement. Some aquarists try to get round this problem by using additional aeration, but, while this will certainly increase the oxygen content and benefit the fish, it will at the same time drive off the carbon dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." While I do not wish to enter into a debate with anyone I think there is another important factor that has been missed CO2 injection reduces ph by turning on and off the injection system you may be causing ph swings that could greatly harm your fish Kris |
Free C02 regulator
And you can't believe everything you read because it was written in a book.
So Sir, that is my opinion. -- Bob Alston bobalston9 AT aol DOT com "Kris" wrote in message news:lcyqc.19952$0e6.13211@clgrps13... Sir Douglas Cook wrote: Quoted from the book: "C02 injection. In recent years some aquarists have used this process, whereby carbon dioxide is added (from a gas cylinder) to the aquarium, in order to promote plant growth. CO2 injection must be used with considerable care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the aquarium is crowded and /or the fish include species with a high oxygen requirement. Some aquarists try to get round this problem by using additional aeration, but, while this will certainly increase the oxygen content and benefit the fish, it will at the same time drive off the carbon dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." While I do not wish to enter into a debate with anyone I think there is another important factor that has been missed CO2 injection reduces ph by turning on and off the injection system you may be causing ph swings that could greatly harm your fish Kris --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 5/18/2004 |
Free C02 regulator
On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua
although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
Everywhere I go I find another reason not to add
an CO2 pump to my aquarium tank. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00212.html -- Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message . .. I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May, Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
"Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. But that's irrelevant to the point. It matters not one jot whether or not "40ppm could be oxygen" if the oxygen level is able to reach higher levels than the fish require whether or not there's 40ppm CO2. That is, suppose your fish want 100 units of oxygen. Suppose that without CO2, your water can hold 900 units oxygen. Suppose with CO2 the water can 'only' hold 897 units oxygen. Now, will the fish be unhappy because there are 3 units that "could be oxygen"? Besides which, you should test some tanks. When I've done so, the densely planted tanks with CO2 injection have had significantly higher oxygen than the largely unplanted tanks. I think you're assuming that all water is always fully saturated with gas, and that simply isn't true. regards, Ian SMith -- |\ /| no .sig |o o| |/ \| |
Free C02 regulator
In my experience, unless you are keeping a low KH there is really no
need to turn CO2 off at night. In most tanks, the biggest loss of CO2 is not presented by the plants, it's from gas exchange, and this doesn't stop at night. Therefore the impact the plants have on CO2 levels during the day is really not as big as some may think it is. Obviously if you have no surface agitation you may see a totally different picture, but then you would likely have oxygen problems during the night regardless of CO2 injection. Fish load will also have an impact on oxygen levels during the night and if gas exchange is insufficient you may run into problems if overstocked. Personally I never have, I used to turn off CO2 at night when I kept a very low KH, and a PH controller would be wonderful in those situations, but with a KH of around 3-4 or higher you shouldn't have any problems with PH swings during the night from CO2. If there's one thing I've learnied that is to not trust everything you read in books or hear from others, try it out for yourself and you will have a better idea, and even then, your conclusions won't work for every tank. Now having said that, what does this have to do with a CO2 regulator? ;-) Regards Giancarlo Podio |
Free C02 regulator
"Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message ...
.... I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. I think you will find that many more than one person have used DIY CO2 methods in the past and many more are still using them today. I for one used it for the best part of 7 years and while it's relatively cheap, it unfortunately does not give a steady CO2 output like a pressurized CO2 setup provides. Seeing that fluctuations seem to be your biggest concern, you will find that a pressurized setup will give you more stable levels in the best interest of your fish. And of course, it's very nice to simply forget about it for a year until it needs to be filled again. As with the rest of your arguments, I think someone may be leading you the wrong way personally, regardless of their education or scientific status. While I'm sure it's not intentional, it is close minded of them. There are limits in all things and I believe they are looking at it from one extreme only, CO2 in planted tanks with fish is just fine if kept in reasonable concentrations (15-30ppm in general). I think if you mention this to these people they will agree. If not, well.... I'm sorry but they are mistaken. If you are interested, here's an article on DIY CO2 that I posted a little while ago, it's nothing new and there are many ways of doing it. http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp And if you want to dig even further or perhaps print something out for your friends to look over: http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html Now I'm not sure if you were just stating a point or if your friends really do wish they were doing the DIY CO2 thing rather than pressurized, if so, I will buy their CO2 equipment off them and even throw in a couple empty soda bottles to get them started ;-) Trust me, we are not all crazy here! :-) Regards Giancarlo Podio www.gpodio.com |
Free C02 regulator
Not sure what the term "pump" is intended to mean? Is it intended to mean
the biological process of yeast converting sugar into alcohol and co2? This does create quite a bit of co2 for a while which can lead to pressure in a closed container. So a 2 liter plastic bottle tends to spew out the co2 - thru an airline hose and into planted tanks. I used two bottles for my 55 gallon but had to replace the mixture about every 2-3 weeks. I, like many others, have used DIY co2 setups, using yeast, and subsequently graduated to a pressurized co2 system - tank, regulator, needle valve and reactor - but no "Pump"!. It is much less trouble to maintain. And much less chance of running out of co2, forgetting to refill the bottle at the right time, especially if you travel. Both provide good results on my plants; no adverse impact to my fish unless the co2 is too much. At night I run an airstone in one tank which is heavily stocked with fish. I leave the co2 running all the time cause I did not spend the extra for a solenoid to control it - an extra $30 or so. My $11 fill of co2 lasts about 8 months. And I have over 35 years of fish keeping and breeding experience! -- Bob Alston bobalston9 AT aol DOT com "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message . .. Everywhere I go I find another reason not to add an CO2 pump to my aquarium tank. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00212.html -- Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message . .. I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.688 / Virus Database: 449 - Release Date: 5/18/2004 |
Free C02 regulator
Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua I have CO2 on my tank, and the plants love it. It's a hand-injected system, so the CO2 goes in as and when I remember to do it. I've carefully monitored my tank for problems overnight before the plants kick back into photosynth in the day, and not seen any signs of O2 depletion at all. That's whether or not I give it another squirt of CO2 last thing at night, or not. Sometimes I get pearling, sometimes I don't. Currently, the plants are suffering due to a faulty heaterstat (now replaced) which drove the temp higher than they could tolerate, and I need to replace the tubes in the lights. Fish all doing wonderfully well - breeding pair of angels in a 28? us gal tank, along with umpteen community fish (inc a betta and two pearl gourami). I think much depends on *how much* CO2 is being injected into the tank. Anyone with half a brain would have monitored both plant growth and fish health and adjusted the CO2 to suit. It takes very little CO2 to increase the plant health/growth. Personally, yes, I would move to a 24/7 system at some point, if I could justify it. Home-made yeast brews are too time consuming and run the risk of dumping into the tank if it goes wrong (or exploding). Don't see any reason why careful tailoring of the CO2 levels would be any different to what I currently have. -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
Summary
I have learned that those of you that have over 10 years experience in this area find that CO2 is wonderful. That's great, although a free CO2 pump made from a pop bottle is to much work, it still works for those that are unsure of the advantages of CO2 mixed in their aquarium. I have also said for the beginner that it might be safer for them to learn how to use CO2 on a Plant only tank for reason stated above. I do have a question for you. If fish and there waste produce CO2, Why don't you just add more fish? I assume the reason is fish produce CO2 and ammonia and a CO2 pump or supply only produces CO2. I know this sounds like a dumb question, But, its seems the more I learn the more questions I have. Thank you all for your time, and efforts. Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Velvet" wrote in message ... Sir Douglas Cook wrote: I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua I have CO2 on my tank, and the plants love it. It's a hand-injected system, so the CO2 goes in as and when I remember to do it. I've carefully monitored my tank for problems overnight before the plants kick back into photosynth in the day, and not seen any signs of O2 depletion at all. That's whether or not I give it another squirt of CO2 last thing at night, or not. Sometimes I get pearling, sometimes I don't. Currently, the plants are suffering due to a faulty heaterstat (now replaced) which drove the temp higher than they could tolerate, and I need to replace the tubes in the lights. Fish all doing wonderfully well - breeding pair of angels in a 28? us gal tank, along with umpteen community fish (inc a betta and two pearl gourami). I think much depends on *how much* CO2 is being injected into the tank. Anyone with half a brain would have monitored both plant growth and fish health and adjusted the CO2 to suit. It takes very little CO2 to increase the plant health/growth. Personally, yes, I would move to a 24/7 system at some point, if I could justify it. Home-made yeast brews are too time consuming and run the risk of dumping into the tank if it goes wrong (or exploding). Don't see any reason why careful tailoring of the CO2 levels would be any different to what I currently have. -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
Summary I have learned that those of you that have over 10 years experience in this area find that CO2 is wonderful. I'm less than 10 years in this hobby, and think CO2 is a Good Thing if you've got a lot of plants. That's great, although a free CO2 pump made from a pop bottle is to much work, it still works for those that are unsure of the advantages of CO2 mixed in their aquarium. I decided the DIY CO2 was too risky initially (blowing yeast mix into the tank or exploding the bottle) and went for a manual-fill CO2 chamber from small compressed cylinder (not one of the big regulator-type constantly bubbling systems - way too expensive). I have also said for the beginner that it might be safer for them to learn how to use CO2 on a Plant only tank for reason stated above. Agree, or go the route I did, with a Floramat system. I do have a question for you. If fish and there waste produce CO2, Why don't you just add more fish? Filter may not take the fish waste load. I assume the reason is fish produce CO2 and ammonia and a CO2 pump or supply only produces CO2. Yep. If you have a lot of plants and a lot of fish, then the size of filter goes up due to the fish load. You could have a lot of plants and just a couple of fish, but that'd still not make a difference to the requirement to have CO2 (if you want good strong thriving plants). I know this sounds like a dumb question, But, its seems the more I learn the more questions I have. Questions are great. I asked loads when I was starting out with my live plants. Now, I'd not have a tank without plants. Previous attempts all failed, but I have: Upgraded the lights Added CO2 Add plant food Removed the UG and gone to external canister (internals mean uprooted plants at maint time) I probably have more fish in the tank than previously, partly due to bigger filtration capabilities but also due to the heavy planting (territories are smaller due to plant cover for a start). For me, the most noticeable change was after I added the CO2. It's not a lot going in, and is patchy some days depending on how much I'm around to top it up. Plants grow like mad and I end up with a damp jungle some times rather than a fishtank. Of course, if I back off to try and get the plant growth rate down, they don't thrive - it's a case that I'm making them fit in a smaller environment than they'd have in the wild, so frequent pruning goes on. Fish love the plants. Thank you all for your time, and efforts. Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire You're welcome :-) -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
I do have a question for you. If fish and there waste produce CO2, Why don't you just add more fish? The CO2 added by the fish is small compared to levels needed for "triving plants." (Which, with even a little thought, means you're in an unnatural equilbrium, but I'm not gonna go there...) -Donald -- "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort." -Herm Albright |
Free C02 regulator
Donald K wrote:
Sir Douglas Cook wrote: I do have a question for you. If fish and there waste produce CO2, Why don't you just add more fish? The CO2 added by the fish is small compared to levels needed for "triving plants." (Which, with even a little thought, means you're in an unnatural equilbrium, but I'm not gonna go there...) -Donald Ah, but thriving plants have a positive effect on the fish I've found - they help reduce nitr?tes (I can never remember which is the last one in the ammonia cycle), which means the tank (or at least mine) spends most of it's time needing very little input from me. I do a water change every few months, not every other week, for example. No algae problems these days, no fish problems, everything's healthy, my pair of angels are breeding in a community tank and raising to free-swimming fry stage (they're still learning so each batch gets another day or two further along the cycle before the parents presumably turn into cannibals and recycle the protein!). I seriously doubt I'd have a pair of angels breeding in the tank if there was something nasty going on (not pure wild angels I'll add though) or the water params were out of whack. B.P. (Before Plants) it was a constant struggle against algae, frequent water changes, fish weren't as brightly coloured and I battled with occasional instances of disease that would randomly crop up (without new fish being added). I take the view that the CO2 means I can grow the plants that will contribute to a better environment for the fish than a purely visual improvement. I'd much rather add the CO2 (small hassle, small cost) than go back to battling with algae and much more frequent water changes. At some point I'd love to go for a completely self-contained system, no filtration, fish and plants, natural lighting only, etc etc, but then I realise there's only one way to do that, and that's to Walk Outside ;-) -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
I also have used the pop-bottle CO2. I didn't find it a problem and wasn't
worried about filling the tank with backwash of yeast etc. I was very careful and did it wisely. The tank was very lush and I grew so many plants that they had to be thinned weekly and the extras were sold/traded at a local fish store. Mike "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote in message ... Summary I have learned that those of you that have over 10 years experience in this area find that CO2 is wonderful. That's great, although a free CO2 pump made from a pop bottle is to much work, it still works for those that are unsure of the advantages of CO2 mixed in their aquarium. I have also said for the beginner that it might be safer for them to learn how to use CO2 on a Plant only tank for reason stated above. I do have a question for you. If fish and there waste produce CO2, Why don't you just add more fish? I assume the reason is fish produce CO2 and ammonia and a CO2 pump or supply only produces CO2. I know this sounds like a dumb question, But, its seems the more I learn the more questions I have. Thank you all for your time, and efforts. Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Velvet" wrote in message ... Sir Douglas Cook wrote: I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:38:02 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Co2 pump are so easy to make why would anyone pay for one??????????????? Yeast CO2 systems do provide as stable a source of CO2. Additionally, they require much more time and effort. With a compressed gas CO2 system, you can set it, and not touch it for a year or more. The price of yeast and sugar isn't free. I pay $10.00 for over a year worth of CO2 for my 75g tank. To do that with a yeast system would require several 2L bottles, and constant work mixing and changing them. I am just suggesting that just one person out there might just want to try this "FREE" CO2 PUMP before they fork out the cash. Since I add baking soda one 2L bottle will last over a month, and after all my homemade CO2 filter is simple to make and did I say "FREE", "FREE", "FREE". The nice part about it is most of my friends that have CO2 pumps said to me that "If only they tried my method first they wouldn't have bought a C02 pump" because they care about their fish primarily. But, since they own it they have setup another tank with the CO2 which is ONLY used for plants. Now that make sense. You won't read anywhere that MORE CO2 is needed BY THE FISH in an aquarium!!!!!! your undergravel filter where there is lots of surface area for the gas to exchange. The buildup of CO2 in the UGF would probably negatively effect the bacteria that are critical for proper UGF operation. That's what they tell you, although it does work well with UGF. Keep in mind that if you mix CO2 in the upper part of the tank you are in fact drawing the waste and the CO2 through the UGF (Under Gravel Filter), Right. And since I mix the CO2 after the UGF as the water flow in downward (most/more) of the CO2 is used by the plants before it gets to the UGF. It is funny to me, that the reason that I put the CO2 after the UGF is the same reason that you dispute it! Please read on. care, if at all. Remember that high CO2 levels may reduce the oxygen uptake of the water and lead to a risk of hypoxia in the fish, especially if the Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. Additionally, when used correctly in a planted aquarium, with high lighting, lots of plants, and CO2 injection, the plants photosynthesis rate will be high enough to drive the O2 level over 100% during the day. This is a cause of the "pearling" often seen in a healthy planted tank. O2 bubbles are released into the water, because the water cannot absorb any more. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the water making it impossible for the Water to accept the 40ppm of the new oxygen. In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) It is not only my opinion but it is the opinion of Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess as I QUOTED their book Tropical Fishlopaedia Mary Bailey has kept tropical fish for more than 25 years, and is known INTERNATIONALLY AS AN EXPERT on the cichlid family. She has written several fishkeeping books, and the English editor of AQUA GEOGRAPHIA MAGAZINE. She also contributor to and CO-EDITOR of, the cichlids yearbook series. And you my friend are disputing with A Dr. Peter Burgess BSc MSc Mphil PhD, Is a "FISH HEALTH SCIENTIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", with more than 25 years' experience as an aquarist. An author of numerous articles and scientific papers on fishkeeping, he is editor of the INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL AQUARIUM SCIENCES AND CONSERVATION! A visiting lecturer in aquarium sciences, he is also an INTERNATIONAL consultant to the aquarium fish industry. Can you tell me about your background? I can tell your information didn't come directly off of the CO2 Pumps box. But, for the listeners,,, Let them know strong your knowledge is. dioxide, making the CO2 injection a rather pointless exercise! CO2 injection should always be turned off at night - When the plants do not need it." Tom Barr recently published some university studies that showed that algae is better able to handle fluxuating CO2 levels better than higher plants. So by constantly having the CO2 level rise and fall, you are giving the algae a slight advantage over the plants. Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! The only possible reason I see to turn off CO2 at night is to save the cost of the CO2. But when I pay just $10.00 for more than a year, I can't see adding the cost of a solenoid and timer to switch the CO2 on and off. It would take decades to make up the cost. Or simply keep your CO2 pump with your "Plants Only tank" I must say I have visited http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua and I was very, very impressed by your web site, you are a person that I do respect. Your planted tanks and catfish information was overwhelming. I will visit your page again. I would like to add your link to my page for those in search of the perfect aquarium. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua I have CO2 on my tank, and the plants love it. It's a hand-injected system, so the CO2 goes in as and when I remember to do it. I've carefully monitored my tank for problems overnight before the plants kick back into photosynth in the day, and not seen any signs of O2 depletion at all. That's whether or not I give it another squirt of CO2 last thing at night, or not. Sometimes I get pearling, sometimes I don't. Currently, the plants are suffering due to a faulty heaterstat (now replaced) which drove the temp higher than they could tolerate, and I need to replace the tubes in the lights. Fish all doing wonderfully well - breeding pair of angels in a 28? us gal tank, along with umpteen community fish (inc a betta and two pearl gourami). I think much depends on *how much* CO2 is being injected into the tank. Anyone with half a brain would have monitored both plant growth and fish health and adjusted the CO2 to suit. It takes very little CO2 to increase the plant health/growth. Personally, yes, I would move to a 24/7 system at some point, if I could justify it. Home-made yeast brews are too time consuming and run the risk of dumping into the tank if it goes wrong (or exploding). Don't see any reason why careful tailoring of the CO2 levels would be any different to what I currently have. -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May 2004 09:24:16 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: I really enjoyed visiting your website http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. Not sure what you mean here, by all my tanks are PLANTED fish tanks. And the first are my first concern. I've got rainbows and cories that I can't stop from breeding. Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. No, decreasing the CO2 level will not allow more O2 to dissolve into the water. It just doesn't work that way. Cannot absorb any more oxygen,,, Thank you for pointing that out. Your right again, 40ppm is the CO2 that has attached itself to the You keep trying, but this is NOT the case. It is a common misconception that water can hold only so much dissolved gas and adding CO2 will displace oxygen. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May 2004 09:24:16 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: Ok, great Tom has confirmed that even plants have a hard time with fluxuating CO2. And you want to put that into your FISH tank! Luckily for us, fish don't use the CO2. So they don't mind the fluxuation. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May 2004 10:03:45 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: Everywhere I go I find another reason not to add an CO2 pump to my aquarium tank. Please don't. Otherwise, when anything goes wrong, you will simply blame the "CO2 pump". http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00212.html In that case, it was most likely that the person, using a yeast system to generate CO2, had the yeast mixture enter the tank. The yeast mixture pollutes the water, the yeast growing consumes oxygen, etc. This can happen in several cases: 1) The bottle gets knocked over. Usually by a small child or a pet. 2) When mixing up a yeast mixture, it's common to use very warm water to properly activate the yeast. If you prepare the mix, and cap the bottle and connect it right away, you might have problems. The cooling mixture will contract, drawing water from the tank backwards thru the CO2 line. This raises the water level in the yeast bottle, and when the yeast starts really producing CO2, the now higher water level allows the mixture to get pushed up the CO2 line into the tank. In either case, lots of water changes can normally save the fish as long as it's detected soon enough. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May 2004 09:24:16 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. It might "make sense" but it's not true. Changing the amount of CO2 won't alter the solubility of O2 in water. I'm pretty sure you are really just trolling, and not actually trying to debate or learn. If you are open to actual facts, and not just spouting what acronyms various people have after than names, here is a link that hopefully will help. http://webusers.xula.edu/cdoumen/CAP/Oxygen2.html About half way down the page, the section is labelled WATER: ----------------------------------------------- The amount of gas dissolved is dependent on * nature of the gas * pressure of the gas in the surrounding medium (air) * solubilty coefficient of the gas which is dependent in turn on o temperature o salinity The solubility of a gas in water is expressed in Henry's Law C = A. P/760 = A. % gas in air/100 where * C = concentration in ml/L * P = partial pressure of the gas * A = solubiltiy coefficient ----------------------- Note that the amount of CO2 in the water is not one of the factors in the solubility of O2 in water. Additionally, water CAN hold 30 times more CO2 than O2. It won't usually have those levels, since the partial pressure of CO2 in air is much less than the partial pressure of O2 in air. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Mon, 24 May 2004 19:26:35 -0600, Chuck Gadd wrote:
although I would like to chatt about the difference between beautiful planted aquariums and beautiful planted aquariums with a CO2 pump and Fishkeeping. Not sure what you mean here, by all my tanks are PLANTED fish tanks. And the first are my first concern. I've got rainbows and cories that I can't stop from breeding. Dang, I've got to slow down. Brain was moving faster than my fingers... Not sure what you mean here. All my tanks are PLANTED fish tanks. And the fish are my first concern. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 19 May 2004 09:24:16 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook"
wrote: In regular non-planted aquarium, using airstones or powerheads for water movement/aeration, typical O2 levels are around 75%. In a health CO2 injected planted tank, the O2 levels are over 100% during the day, and during the night, only fall to 80% or so. Are you telling me that the plant give off so much oxygen that your water is 100%, that's like pure H2O, Wow, that's sounds impressive! This is the sort of comment that makes me think you are simply trolling. My statement was that O2 levels are over 100%. That means that the water is holding 100% of the total amount of O2 that can possibly be dissolved into the water. It doesn't mean the water is 100% H20. Back to science class for you. I better tell my science teacher, that a planted aquarium with a CO2 pump using the same hardware and equipment has more Oxygen at night! He would be so proud of me. ;-) If your science teacher doesn't understand photosynthesis, he's not much of a teacher. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
Sorry,,, I was a DIY CO2... but I bet you didn't go to the link provided...
But in it you would find quote:: I am using DIY C02, with jello, fed into a filter. I've used this many times before and this particular bottle had been bubbling successfully for over a week, with no problem. For a reason I can't understand, it suddenly bubbled over into the tank sometime during the night. Although there was red jello residue throughout the whole air line, the tank had very slight brownish residue, with no sign of red. Upon waking I found my fish dead. End Quote But, even though, since I have had so much feed back I will one day get a CO2 pump... When my knownledge gets strong enough I'll be able to use a CO2 pump wisely. -- Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Wed, 19 May 2004 10:03:45 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Everywhere I go I find another reason not to add an CO2 pump to my aquarium tank. Please don't. Otherwise, when anything goes wrong, you will simply blame the "CO2 pump". http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00212.html In that case, it was most likely that the person, using a yeast system to generate CO2, had the yeast mixture enter the tank. The yeast mixture pollutes the water, the yeast growing consumes oxygen, etc. This can happen in several cases: 1) The bottle gets knocked over. Usually by a small child or a pet. 2) When mixing up a yeast mixture, it's common to use very warm water to properly activate the yeast. If you prepare the mix, and cap the bottle and connect it right away, you might have problems. The cooling mixture will contract, drawing water from the tank backwards thru the CO2 line. This raises the water level in the yeast bottle, and when the yeast starts really producing CO2, the now higher water level allows the mixture to get pushed up the CO2 line into the tank. In either case, lots of water changes can normally save the fish as long as it's detected soon enough. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
I am trying to learn,,,
But, It has slowly turned into a debate which I find is interesting if it brings me more knowledge. And I thank you all, even you Mr. C Gadd. http://webusers.xula.edu/cdoumen/CAP/Oxygen2.html Although, this assignment paper doesn't prove that water can take more or less Oxygen regardless of CO2 levels. But, I must say this topic went far off of its intended direction. In the beginning my starting post just offer a free CO2 pump for those that wanted to try it. And it turned into a debate about how bad a free CO2 pump can be,,, and then a debate about turning CO2 pump off at night which I learned that PH swings would be hard on the fish,,, All in all I have learn all that I need to know for now. Only because I don't want to be accused of "trolling". Although when I learn more about HOW CO2 affects the PH, I'll one day put the CO2 back on to my six tanks. Bye for now, Sir Douglas Cook http://www.greyspace.bravehostNOSPAM.com/ Remove "NOSPAM" for correct address London Ontario Canada Aquarium Maintenance Man for Hire "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Wed, 19 May 2004 09:24:16 -0700, "Sir Douglas Cook" wrote: Completely false at levels encountered in our aquariums. CO2 levels elevated to the levels used for planted aquaria (40ppm max) will not prevent any absorption of O2. Wrong, it make sense that 40ppm could be oxygen which is replaced with CO2. As stated above. It might "make sense" but it's not true. Changing the amount of CO2 won't alter the solubility of O2 in water. I'm pretty sure you are really just trolling, and not actually trying to debate or learn. If you are open to actual facts, and not just spouting what acronyms various people have after than names, here is a link that hopefully will help. http://webusers.xula.edu/cdoumen/CAP/Oxygen2.html About half way down the page, the section is labelled WATER: ----------------------------------------------- The amount of gas dissolved is dependent on * nature of the gas * pressure of the gas in the surrounding medium (air) * solubilty coefficient of the gas which is dependent in turn on o temperature o salinity The solubility of a gas in water is expressed in Henry's Law C = A. P/760 = A. % gas in air/100 where * C = concentration in ml/L * P = partial pressure of the gas * A = solubiltiy coefficient ----------------------- Note that the amount of CO2 in the water is not one of the factors in the solubility of O2 in water. Additionally, water CAN hold 30 times more CO2 than O2. It won't usually have those levels, since the partial pressure of CO2 in air is much less than the partial pressure of O2 in air. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
Sir Douglas Cook wrote:
Sorry,,, I was a DIY CO2... but I bet you didn't go to the link provided... But in it you would find quote:: I am using DIY C02, with jello, fed into a filter. I've used this many times before and this particular bottle had been bubbling successfully for over a week, with no problem. For a reason I can't understand, it suddenly bubbled over into the tank sometime during the night. Although there was red jello residue throughout the whole air line, the tank had very slight brownish residue, with no sign of red. Upon waking I found my fish dead. End Quote But, even though, since I have had so much feed back I will one day get a CO2 pump... When my knownledge gets strong enough I'll be able to use a CO2 pump wisely. Try a small version of it. Like the Floramat system. You push CO2 from a compressed can (disposable) using a button on the top, to fill a chamber, that sits in the tank, with water passing across (either open-bottomed, like a bell, or with air pump moving water in and up and out past the CO2). The chamber empties of CO2 as it's absorbed into the water (and the tank) and you refill as and when, depending on how much CO2 you want. That can, however, be multiple times a day if you have a lot of strongly growing plants (and want to keep them that way) - or for less demanding plants, just twice a day. Never any risk of CO2 yeast mix getting into the tank (it's compressed CO2 can), no risk of needle-valve getting stuck or regulator failure and blowing the whole lot into the tank, etc etc. Great way to start out with CO2 IMO. Yes the cans need replacing, but they're not *that* expensive, and it's a whole lot less hassle - and worry-free, than compared with DIY CO2, and a damn sight cheaper than a full-blown CO2 system. -- Velvet |
Free C02 regulator
Oh, come on... didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch.... Sir...
First!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you can't take anything I say too seriously.... Second!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you can't take yourself too seriously either... Third!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks, but no thanks on the education... Last but not least... I've had CO2 on my tank for several years... I need no education... you may have many more years of experience, that isn't the point... The point is, it's unnecessary to turn off your CO2 at night.... years of hobby experience has shown no adverse effects of running it 24/7... you can debate that until you're green in the face, it matters not... have a great day... -- RedForeman ©® future fabricator and creator of a ratbike streetfighter!!! ========================== 2003 TRX450ES 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale) '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted.... ========================== ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø is that better?? |
Free C02 regulator
A third possibility related to #2 happened to me. Too much activity in the
pop bottle pushed the yeat mixture into the tank. A couple 50% water changes over 3 days and adding some charcoal to the HOT filter fixed things up. No fish losses. "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... In that case, it was most likely that the person, using a yeast system to generate CO2, had the yeast mixture enter the tank. The yeast mixture pollutes the water, the yeast growing consumes oxygen, etc. This can happen in several cases: 1) The bottle gets knocked over. Usually by a small child or a pet. 2) When mixing up a yeast mixture, it's common to use very warm water to properly activate the yeast. If you prepare the mix, and cap the bottle and connect it right away, you might have problems. The cooling mixture will contract, drawing water from the tank backwards thru the CO2 line. This raises the water level in the yeast bottle, and when the yeast starts really producing CO2, the now higher water level allows the mixture to get pushed up the CO2 line into the tank. In either case, lots of water changes can normally save the fish as long as it's detected soon enough. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
On Wed, 26 May 2004 12:42:24 -0500, "Kevin"
wrote: A third possibility related to #2 happened to me. Too much activity in the pop bottle pushed the yeat mixture into the tank. A couple 50% water changes over 3 days and adding some charcoal to the HOT filter fixed things up. No fish losses. By activity, do you mean just the yeast reacting quickly and causing the mix to expand? Never saw that, but I usually kept the mix at least an inch or two below the bottle cap / airline. My usual procedure (from when I was using a yeast system a few years ago), was to prepare the mix, let it sit uncapped for a few hours, until the water was down to room temp, then connect it to the tank. I'm a horrible procrastinator. The yeast method would only work for me for about 2 weeks. Then I'd forget to mix up a new batch, and the tank would be without CO2 for a few weeks. That's why I like pressurized. I literally forget about it for several months at a time without any problems. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
Free C02 regulator
AS IF!!!!!!!
As if, I was trying to educate you! I write to share ideas, with those that want too. and more importantly,,,,,,,, learn, while hopefully making friends, go head, this sentence is load ;-) Oh, come on... didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch.... Sir... sure................. Hey, RedForeman ©® If we are debating,,, I concede... you win... If we are sharing ideas,,, I thank you as you proved your point (many times) ;-) Hope to chat on a different topic... later as I think our message are somewhat interesting. |
Free C02 regulator
|| AS IF!!!!!!!
|| As if, I was trying to educate you! || || I write to share ideas, with those that want too. || and more importantly,,,,,,,, learn, while hopefully || making friends, go head, this sentence is load ;-) || ||| Oh, come on... didn't mean to get your panties in a bunch.... ||| Sir... sure................. || || Hey, RedForeman ©® || If we are debating,,, I concede... you win... || If we are sharing ideas,,, I thank you as you proved your point || (many times) ;-) || || Hope to chat on a different topic... later as I think our message are || somewhat || interesting. just call me the jest.. er.. jester.... whatever works... I live, I laugh, I love to laugh.... :-) -- RedForeman ©® future fabricator and creator of a ratbike streetfighter!!! ========================== 2003 TRX450ES 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale) '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted.... ========================== ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø is that better?? |
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