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Core Aerating
I'm having a guy come in to do core aeration to the turf in the front so I
can lay out compost and when I do dig it up, the clay soil will be softer to work. He's charging me 35 dollars! I couldn't rent a machine and do it myself for that. For those of us NOT so lucky to have this guy in our neighborhoods, I found a foot core aerator I've used with much success at (believe it or not) HOME DEPOT! Simple operation, similar to the edging tools, just step on it and it cuts out a core about 1/2" diameter and 4" long. works WONDERS on my clay yard as long as it's not too dry. Easy to use and easy to clean (I recommend saving one of the metal plant stakes for cleaning out the holes when you're done. does an awesome job). Bonus is.... I can aerate all I want and it only cost me ~$20! It's already paid for itself. Just my 2 cents......... Christine |
Core Aerating
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Core Aerating
On Sun, 20 Apr 2003 22:38:59 GMT, animaux wrote:
I want to get one of these. *VBG* only 2500 steps to aerate my 500 sq ft of lawn..... Lewis Lawn Coring Aerator Model: #D-6C SKU: #595582 I have one too, but still rent to do my lawn! "As crude a weapon as a cave man's club the chemical barrage has been hurled at the fabric of life." Rachel Carson |
Core Aerating
What is the name or skew number on the tool? I want to
get one of these. UPC code is.... 7 35390 92325 6 Cant remember the brand but it's black with red foam handles. Just my 2 cents......... Christine |
Core Aerating
On Sun, 20 Apr 2003 15:53:20 -0700, Tom Jaszewski wrote:
*VBG* only 2500 steps to aerate my 500 sq ft of lawn..... Lewis Lawn Coring Aerator Model: #D-6C SKU: #595582 I have one too, but still rent to do my lawn! Ha! Well, I suppose my 35 dollars to have the whole thing core aerated doesn't sound so bad after all. Every spring when the grape hyacinth come up (my husband loves those) I want to plant them into the turf. It may have a good use to plant minor bulbs and bluebonnet seeds in the lawn. Oh how I hate lawn. |
Core Aerating
On Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:20:53 -0700, Tom Jaszewski wrote:
An 8' wide "wrap" around a small patio totaling 250 sq ft provides a lot of cooling on the east side of the house. It extends the living space in the heat of late spring, early summer and early fall. Providing a healthy soil with 18-24" of organic structure means I use 25% of the water and 1/4 of the nutrients to sustain it. Grass isn't necessarily the enemy. Poor gardening practice is more often the foe. The front is another story, it will be an Aloe garden modeled after the old Ethel M's Chocolates garden. 20 species of Aloe and a dozen or so Agave will soon grace the front entry. At this rate my battery powered lawn more will out live me! IMNSHO tomj Oh but it takes so much energy to mow it, water it, feed it, aerate it! When we first bought the house the first thing we planted were trees. There are four old growth live oaks which are at least 30 feet tall around on all sides. In the summer, the chinch bugs show up in dry sod. Do you get much of a winter in Las Vegas? We really don't get much of a winter. Maybe a month or so of really cold days or nights (30s-40s). I only needed a small electric heater on 5 nights all winter in the greenhouse (200 sq. ft.). I don't feel turf is the enemy, but it isn't as aesthetically appealing to me as beds with native plants and paths. Islands in the sun. Then there's that strip of turf in the street. Feh. That got a bunch of Guara lindheimerii and wildflowers with cedar elms and Muhly lindheimerii. Both are native to Texas. I do understand where you are coming from, as well, it is less appealing to me to have turf since my husband mows and it's so hot out there in summer. V |
Core Aerating
On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:42:16 -0700, Tom Jaszewski wrote:
On 29 Apr 2003 20:51:46 GMT, c (TOM KAN PA) wrote: How would core areating prevent these circles? As the first step in restoring a lawn to a sustainable garden, core aerating goes a long way. To answer your question, TomKan, core aeration allows the soil to get oxygen, which is generally not a hospitable climate for most fungi or molds. They like a wet soil or conditions. Victoria |
Core Aerating
Xref: news7 rec.gardens:223424
animaux wrote: On Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:42:16 -0700, Tom Jaszewski wrote: On 29 Apr 2003 20:51:46 GMT, c (TOM KAN PA) wrote: How would core areating prevent these circles? As the first step in restoring a lawn to a sustainable garden, core aerating goes a long way. To answer your question, TomKan, core aeration allows the soil to get oxygen, which is generally not a hospitable climate for most fungi or molds. They like a wet soil or conditions. Victoria As an aside, mushroom circles in the lawn, or "fairy rings" as they are sometimes called, are not harmful to the lawn. They usually indicate underground wood (old tree roots, etc.) which is decomposing. The fungi (of which the mushrooms are the fruiting bodies) are a natural part of the decomposition process. They are typically seasonal in nature, appearing in spring when the soil temps warm and the climate is damp with spring rains. You can rake away the mushrooms if you find them unsightly or simply wait for warm, dry weather when they will disappear. pam - gardengal |
Core Aerating
I must be thinking of something else. There are circles that appear in grass
that looks like somebody took a little tiny fertilizer drop spreader and made circles, resulting in much darker, greener grass in these rings. We have called them Pixie Circles. BTW, don't use those Areaters that you put on your feet like old time rollerskates. They have spikes on the bottom. Not only do THEY NOT areate the soil, they do the opposite, the compact it more. And if you do it enough, you'll eventually fall and break or sprain your ankle. |
Core Aerating
Fairy Rings can be minimized by adding oxygen.....Aerating the lawn!
Dave "Tom Jaszewski" wrote in message ... On 29 Apr 2003 20:51:46 GMT, c (TOM KAN PA) wrote: How would core areating prevent these circles? As the first step in restoring a lawn to a sustainable garden, core aerating goes a long way. "Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance. Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present, but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals. The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment." Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978 |
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