Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden. A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten people can inhale in a year. But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these readers discovered. QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe tree stakes. Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees. For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch trunk diameter, and so on. Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends of the longest branches. Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one. http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens, rhododendron, day lilies, hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not as big as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs, houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on. From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out for you. QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 05:25:33 -0700, "
wrote: Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden. A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten people can inhale in a year. But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these readers discovered. QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe tree stakes. Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees. For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch trunk diameter, and so on. Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends of the longest branches. Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one. http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new growth in response to the nitrogen. Also, fertilizing without a soil test is always risky. If the homeowner (or his predecessor) already fertilized excessively, the buildup of salts could kill the tree. Not to mention the risk of runoff polluting waterways (admittedly unlikely with these spikes). Speaking of which, the spikes themselves are a very inefficient way to fertilize your soil. The result is a few pockets of oversalted soil surrounded by large areas of unaffected root zone. (I prefer to top-dress twice a year with composted manure. If your soil is deficient in phosphorus, add bone meal. P and K are usually not a problem, though. The compost will add N and also microbes to invigorate the soil ecosystem. This will be much more useful than a chemical spike or two.) The likely cause of this tree's problems is poor planting practices--too deep, leading to root crown decay and possibly girdling roots. But it is impossible to diagnose without more information. The only good advice above is to call a good arborist. QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens, rhododendron, day lilies, hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not as big as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs, houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on. From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out for you. It doesn't sound like that to me. It is possible, I suppose, but where is the evidence? Sounds like a vague description of normal plant characteristics and too-small leaves, which are not caused by insects. Again, more info is needed for diagnosis. QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots. What, no irrigation products to promote? Watering plants cannot be done on a set schedule or regimen. You have to dig into the soil to see if it it wet. Water deeply when the top 3-6 inches of soil are dry. Do not water again until the soil is dry again. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Treedweller wrote:
" wrote: Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden. A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten people can inhale in a year. But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these readers discovered. QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe tree stakes. Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees. For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch trunk diameter, and so on. Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends of the longest branches. Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one. http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfmYou can also click on a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web site,www.landsteward.org This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new growth in response to the nitrogen. Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh Trees have been growing very successfully for millions and millions of years, with no human intervention whatsoever... the only trees that need to be fertilized (perhaps) are those being grown in a pot. Two hundred year old trees grow very well out of little holes in urban concrete... people carve into them, hack off their limbs, spew endless torrents of horrid fumes at them, and no one ever waters or fertilizes them andthey're very healthy, yet for hundreds of years they've never seen an arborist even once... must be those dogs and winos doing their business at their feet. Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products, services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out the hose because it's not rained in a while. Anytime you see someone holding themself up as an "arborist" that's selling/promoting anything whatsoever that's not an arborist, that's a charlatan. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Sounds like another product pusher.
I would first start with mulch, proper that is. Qestion: Why? Answer - Troubles in the Rhizosphere http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html and Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Improper Pruning http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry) http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html Tree Farming and Related Problems http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/ Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered. Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh By mulching!!!!!!! Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Look at some of the forest story. http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...tis/index.html You do not log your way to improved forest health. Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products, services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out the hose because it's not rained in a while. I agree 100% I am an arborist and what I push most for trees in urban areas is proper mulching which includes ecoart nurse losg. http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/ecoart/ I am not against fertilizing if someone had optimum fertility levels for trees and could prove that an element was actually lacking. Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist with tree biology background. http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
The biggest joke is that the guy is trying to make us believe that we can
"feed" trees. They must think we flunked photosynthesis. Trees manufacture their own food. Autotrophs make their own food. Heterotrophs have to have it made for them. Trees are autotrophs not heterotrophs. A basic understanding of trees would see how misleading it is to claim we are feeding a tree a dinner when in reality we are providing essential elements not food. -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. " wrote in message ups.com... Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden. A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten people can inhale in a year. But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these readers discovered. QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe tree stakes. Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees. For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch trunk diameter, and so on. Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends of the longest branches. Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one. http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens, rhododendron, day lilies, hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not as big as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs, houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on. From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out for you. QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder.
If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves. Here in the Northeast I wouldn't fertilize much after the 4th of July because you don't need to go into the heat of summer and into fall with soft new growth, add the organic material and improve the soil. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
"beecrofter" wrote in message oups.com... I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder. If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves. Lawns interfere with the tree. Its best to cut the turf low and place 3-4 inches of composted wood chips and leaves. Instructions you can use are here. Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Also 10-10-10 is a corn treatment and not a tree treatment. What about the other 14 elements trees require? The dump on method of 10-10-10- and such is old arboriculture. There are many other tree related problems worth mentioning. -- Many tree problems are associated with the following: They are Case Sensitive. Troubles in the Rhizosphere http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html and Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Improper Pruning http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry) http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html Tree Farming and Related Problems http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/ Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on? Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote:
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10 is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on? Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even better, a half inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Ok
But composted wood chips and leaves has even added benifits other than just adding humus over a lawn. John "beecrofter" wrote in message ups.com... On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote: there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10 is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on? Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even better, a half inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Its to my understanding, I may be wrong. Don't believe it because I say it
but see it for yourself. Food is a substance that provides and energy source, mostly. Nutrient is a substance that provides an energy source, elements, and other substances essential for life, in types and amounts that can provide a healthy life. Fertilizer is a substance that provides elements, as salts mostly, or in bonded forms, that require microorganisms to alter to forms that can be absorbed by plants. I do not call elements - nutrients, however nutrients would contain elements. You can put a file in a folder but you can't put a folder in a file. A list of elements can be found he http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US211%26sa%3DX 17 Elements For Life - Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron, Molybdenum, Chlorine, Zinc, Nickel [Sodium, Cobalt, Selenium?] 14 essential elements are obtained by trees from the soil. I do not have a list of which ones they are. Wood is the substrate of the base of the food web, the mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizae tend to be abundant in composted wood such as nurse logs. We had great success at tree biology workshops finding mycorrhizae during dryer times, in and about nurse logs. I believe, you don't have to agree with it, please, just think. I think that by applying mulch as I recommend under mulch here that you facilitate the mycorrhizae rather than just adding what I believe you mean as humus, over a lawn. Not that its bad in any way, adding humus i.e.. Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Did I say - Mycorrhizae are organs that facilitate the absorption of elements essential for healthy growth. Mycorrhizae resist the Demons Of D. Mycorrhizae facilitate the absorption of elements. Demons of D are those things that add up to the big D word DEATH. E.g., Depletion, disruption, and dysfunction. Elements can be depleted. Disruption, you get hit my a Mac truck. Dysfunction, some organ such as mycorrhizae may not function. Major Elements C; H; N; O; P; K; S; Mg; Ni; Fe; Ca; Zn; Mo; Mn; B; Cl; Cu There is the law of the minimum. It states the element that is deficient the most, would be the determining factor in the health of the tree. I think research would be wise in the search for the optimum fertility level for trees. I did some soil testing in the upper four inches of soil and from at and about nurse logs in old growth forest which contain hemlocks and white pines. And much more. Here is my average on my testing for the latter. These where five test. 3 test sites where in Allegheny National Forest(Hearts Content) Pennsylvania and two where in Allegheny National Forest(Tionesta Scenic area) Pennsylvania. Results are in Pounds Per Acre PPA. AVAILABLE ELEMENTS P 8.2 K 236 Mg 107 Ca 594 Al 220.6 Fe 110.8 Mn 118.6 Zn 11.96 NO3-N 28.8 Did not get B or CU. Organic matter was 29.32% Ex Acidity 81 ME/100G Salts mmho: 0.01 mmho/cm Moisture %3.97 Water Soluble mg/kg B 1.0738 ACID Soluble (mg/kg) Cd 0.976 Cu 6.768 Ni 5.71 (Penn State discovered the element Ni to be essential in small amounts) Mn 426.378 Co 3.084 Zn 46.818 Pb 101.792 Cr 5.078 P 726.226 The CARBON TO NITROGEN RATION was 27:1 pH 4.2 WOW That would be a goal of mine if I was going to provide essential elements professionally. I did not see to many people in the old growth sections. There was more calcium at a nurse logs in a separate test. We don't feed trees, however, we can feed the soil with composted wood (chips and nurse logs) and leaves. We can feed the system. I have some results for some sick hemlocks (elements in soil) -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
Treat ailing tree to a "fertilizer stake dinner"
Professionally, for me, if I can the get the customer or client to mulch
with composted wood chips and leaves at my specs, I consider myself lucky. If then we desire to go further, for mature trees such as cucumber magnolia, we would have to recommend a soil application of micro-elements. I would prefer to fertilize with 0 nitrogen. I call the micro and not minor because they are anything but minor. if there was hemlocks and the client desired fertilizing I would recommend testing and using my results as a guide. Like I said, more research is needed. How you would fertilize a young trees is very different than how you would want to fertilize a mature trees. I do not believe a mature tree requires to grow bigger and faster as adding a 10-10-10. Nitrogen in the form it is in 10-10-10 was explained to me as follows. Imagine the biggest grand finale on the 4th of July (in USA) you have ever seen and multiply that by 10. Chemistry speaking that is what it is like when you take a pinch of nitrogen in that form and toss it on the soil. I am absolutely not the last word on fertilizing. Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
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