Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 05:25:33 -0700, "
wrote:

Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If
he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it
to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new
growth in response to the nitrogen.

Also, fertilizing without a soil test is always risky. If the
homeowner (or his predecessor) already fertilized excessively, the
buildup of salts could kill the tree. Not to mention the risk of
runoff polluting waterways (admittedly unlikely with these spikes).

Speaking of which, the spikes themselves are a very inefficient way to
fertilize your soil. The result is a few pockets of oversalted soil
surrounded by large areas of unaffected root zone. (I prefer to
top-dress twice a year with composted manure. If your soil is
deficient in phosphorus, add bone meal. P and K are usually not a
problem, though. The compost will add N and also microbes to
invigorate the soil ecosystem. This will be much more useful than a
chemical spike or two.)

The likely cause of this tree's problems is poor planting
practices--too deep, leading to root crown decay and possibly girdling
roots. But it is impossible to diagnose without more information.
The only good advice above is to call a good arborist.


QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

It doesn't sound like that to me. It is possible, I suppose, but
where is the evidence? Sounds like a vague description of normal
plant characteristics and too-small leaves, which are not caused by
insects. Again, more info is needed for diagnosis.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

What, no irrigation products to promote?

Watering plants cannot be done on a set schedule or regimen. You have
to dig into the soil to see if it it wet. Water deeply when the top
3-6 inches of soil are dry. Do not water again until the soil is dry
again.

Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT

Treedweller wrote:
" wrote:
Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfmYou can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site,www.landsteward.org

This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If
he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it
to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new
growth in response to the nitrogen.



Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare
that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh

Trees have been growing very successfully for millions and millions of
years, with no human intervention whatsoever... the only trees that
need to be fertilized (perhaps) are those being grown in a pot. Two
hundred year old trees grow very well out of little holes in urban
concrete... people carve into them, hack off their limbs, spew
endless torrents of horrid fumes at them, and no one ever waters or
fertilizes them andthey're very healthy, yet for hundreds of years
they've never seen an arborist even once... must be those dogs and
winos doing their business at their feet.

Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products,
services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting
such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out
the hose because it's not rained in a while.

Anytime you see someone holding themself up as an "arborist" that's
selling/promoting anything whatsoever that's not an arborist, that's a
charlatan.

Sounds like another product pusher.

I would first start with mulch, proper that is.

Qestion: Why?
Answer - Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.


Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare
that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh

By mulching!!!!!!!

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Look at some of the forest story.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...tis/index.html

You do not log your way to improved forest health.

Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products,
services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting
such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out
the hose because it's not rained in a while.

I agree 100%

I am an arborist and what I push most for trees in urban areas is proper
mulching which includes ecoart nurse losg.

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/ecoart/

I am not against fertilizing if someone had optimum fertility levels for
trees and could prove that an element was actually lacking.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist with tree biology background.
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

The biggest joke is that the guy is trying to make us believe that we can
"feed" trees. They must think we flunked photosynthesis. Trees manufacture
their own food. Autotrophs make their own food. Heterotrophs have to have
it made for them. Trees are autotrophs not heterotrophs. A basic
understanding of trees would see how misleading it is to claim we are
feeding a tree a dinner when in reality we are providing essential elements
not food.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

" wrote in message
ups.com...
Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder.

If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or
5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to
do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer
broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and
cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Here in the Northeast I wouldn't fertilize much after the 4th of July
because you don't need to go into the heat of summer and into fall
with soft new growth, add the organic material and improve the soil.

"beecrofter" wrote in message
oups.com...
I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder.

If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or
5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to
do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer
broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and
cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Lawns interfere with the tree. Its best to cut the turf low and place 3-4
inches of composted wood chips and leaves.

Instructions you can use are here.

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Also 10-10-10 is a corn treatment and not a tree treatment. What about the
other 14 elements trees require?

The dump on method of 10-10-10- and such is old arboriculture.


There are many other tree related problems worth mentioning.

--
Many tree problems are associated with the following: They are Case
Sensitive.

Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote:
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even
better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Ok

But composted wood chips and leaves has even added benifits other than just
adding humus over a lawn.

John
"beecrofter" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote:
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of
10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding
us
that we are not the boss.

Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even
better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Its to my understanding, I may be wrong. Don't believe it because I say it
but see it for yourself.

Food is a substance that provides and energy source, mostly. Nutrient is a
substance that provides an energy source, elements, and other substances
essential for life, in types and amounts that can provide a healthy life.
Fertilizer is a substance that provides elements, as salts mostly, or in
bonded forms, that require microorganisms to alter to forms that can be
absorbed by plants. I do not call elements - nutrients, however nutrients
would contain elements. You can put a file in a folder but you can't put a
folder in a file. A list of elements can be found he
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US211%26sa%3DX

17 Elements For Life - Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus,
Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron,
Molybdenum, Chlorine, Zinc, Nickel [Sodium, Cobalt, Selenium?]

14 essential elements are obtained by trees from the soil. I do not have a
list of which ones they are.

Wood is the substrate of the base of the food web, the mycorrhizal fungi.
Mycorrhizae tend to be abundant in composted wood such as nurse logs. We
had great success at tree biology workshops finding mycorrhizae during dryer
times, in and about nurse logs. I believe, you don't have to agree with it,
please, just think. I think that by applying mulch as I recommend under
mulch here that you facilitate the mycorrhizae rather than just adding what
I believe you mean as humus, over a lawn. Not that its bad in any way,
adding humus i.e..

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Did I say - Mycorrhizae are organs that facilitate the absorption of
elements essential for healthy growth. Mycorrhizae resist the Demons Of D.
Mycorrhizae facilitate the absorption of elements. Demons of D are those
things that add up to the big D word DEATH. E.g., Depletion, disruption,
and dysfunction. Elements can be depleted. Disruption, you get hit my a
Mac truck. Dysfunction, some organ such as mycorrhizae may not function.


Major Elements C; H; N; O; P; K; S; Mg; Ni; Fe; Ca; Zn; Mo; Mn; B; Cl; Cu

There is the law of the minimum. It states the element that is deficient
the most, would be the determining factor in the health of the tree.

I think research would be wise in the search for the optimum fertility level
for trees.

I did some soil testing in the upper four inches of soil and from at and
about nurse logs in old growth forest which contain hemlocks and white
pines. And much more. Here is my average on my testing for the latter.
These where five test. 3 test sites where in Allegheny National
Forest(Hearts Content) Pennsylvania
and two where in Allegheny National Forest(Tionesta Scenic area)
Pennsylvania.
Results are in Pounds Per Acre PPA. AVAILABLE ELEMENTS
P 8.2
K 236
Mg 107
Ca 594
Al 220.6
Fe 110.8
Mn 118.6
Zn 11.96
NO3-N 28.8
Did not get B or CU.
Organic matter was 29.32%
Ex Acidity 81 ME/100G
Salts mmho: 0.01 mmho/cm
Moisture %3.97
Water Soluble mg/kg B 1.0738
ACID Soluble (mg/kg)
Cd 0.976
Cu 6.768
Ni 5.71 (Penn State discovered the element Ni to be essential in small
amounts)
Mn 426.378
Co 3.084
Zn 46.818
Pb 101.792
Cr 5.078
P 726.226
The CARBON TO NITROGEN RATION was 27:1
pH 4.2 WOW

That would be a goal of mine if I was going to provide essential elements
professionally. I did not see to many people in the old growth sections.

There was more calcium at a nurse logs in a separate test.

We don't feed trees, however, we can feed the soil with composted wood
(chips and nurse logs) and leaves. We can feed the system.

I have some results for some sick hemlocks (elements in soil)


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Professionally, for me, if I can the get the customer or client to mulch
with composted wood chips and leaves at my specs, I consider myself lucky.
If then we desire to go further, for mature trees such as cucumber magnolia,
we would have to recommend a soil application of micro-elements. I would
prefer to fertilize with 0 nitrogen. I call the micro and not minor because
they are anything but minor. if there was hemlocks and the client desired
fertilizing I would recommend testing and using my results as a guide. Like
I said, more research is needed. How you would fertilize a young trees is
very different than how you would want to fertilize a mature trees. I do
not believe a mature tree requires to grow bigger and faster as adding a
10-10-10. Nitrogen in the form it is in 10-10-10 was explained to me as
follows. Imagine the biggest grand finale on the 4th of July (in USA) you
have ever seen and multiply that by 10. Chemistry speaking that is what it
is like when you take a pinch of nitrogen in that form and toss it on the
soil. I am absolutely not the last word on fertilizing.

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.