Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
 

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500,
(Pat Kiewicz) wrote:

snip
What I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it
up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps.
This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work.
(I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage
of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.)

I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling
(not good for someone with knee and tendon problems).
snip

Hi Pat,

I would recommend reading over this page:

http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm

I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just
haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really
didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best
harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two
and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to
find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons
pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the
old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only
good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose
garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is
really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have
caught moles with it though in the garden.

Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a
shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for
setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel
area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your
fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel
around the trap :) in two days or less. If not move the trap
to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick
your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can
help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around
first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a
good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it
will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite
often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed
through them.

If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is
okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles
through the years.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
 

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500,
(Pat Kiewicz) wrote:

snip
What I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it
up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps.
This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work.
(I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage
of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.)

I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling
(not good for someone with knee and tendon problems).
snip

Hi Pat,

I would recommend reading over this page:

http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm

I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just
haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really
didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best
harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two
and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to
find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons
pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the
old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only
good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose
garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is
really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have
caught moles with it though in the garden.

Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a
shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for
setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel
area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your
fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel
around the trap :) in two days or less. If not move the trap
to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick
your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can
help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around
first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a
good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it
will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite
often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed
through them.

If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is
okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles
through the years.


fill the tunnel with propane, and light it.

Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
 

On Aug 29, 9:58 am, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500,

(Pat Kiewicz) wrote:

snipWhat I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it
up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps.
This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work.
(I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage
of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.)

I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling
(not good for someone with knee and tendon problems).

snip

Hi Pat,

I would recommend reading over this page:

http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm

I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just
haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really
didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best
harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two
and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to
find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons
pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the
old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only
good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose
garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is
really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have
caught moles with it though in the garden.

Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a
shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for
setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel
area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your
fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel
around the trap :) in two days or less. If not move the trap
to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick
your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can
help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around
first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a
good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it
will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite
often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed
through them.

If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is
okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles
through the years.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Several twisting weeders and augers can help you damage the mole
tunnels without doing too much visible damage to your lawn and
garden. Moles will usually abandon damaged tunnels. These tools can
also be useful for setting up your traps or bait, if needed. You can
also use these tools to go mole hunting. But you need a lot of time
and the patience of a cat, for this endeavor.

Search for twisting weeders in your favorite search engine.
_________________________________
At peace with weeds and moles...

Forgot buying a Tomcat Mole Killer! Or anything else!

Use a plumbers hand-held butane gas bottle, length of hose, dig out mole hill and search for mole run and then insert length of hose, connect butane bottle and gas the little blighter. Continue this at several mole hills. Harsh but effective!

Use a plumbers hand-held butane gas bottle, length of hose, dig out mole hill and search for mole run and then insert length of hose, connect butane bottle and gas the little blighter. Continue this at several mole hills. Harsh but effective!